Runs better when waste oil is added???

[6.9poweredscout]

since i was wayyy too afraid to use WMO or used ATF, my friend acquired some REALLLLY old motor oil still sealed in the bottles from a house he was scrapping metal at, since we were too afraid to use them in our engines i figured i'll BURN it in mine!!! i dumped 2 gallons of 10-40 in, the last bit was chunky (wax???) so i stopped before it all went in, then i added a quart of 20-50 in a STEEL CAN, then some 75-90 synthetic gear oil i had (i'm not going to use 1 qt in anything), a qt of 80-90 (i started buying 5 gallon buckets of 85-140 it's alot easier when you chainge the fluid every 2 weeks! ), and finally 2 qts of fresh ATF. there's about 12 gallons of diesel on top of it and a splash of howes. i'm gonna top off the 33 gallon tank before i head to carlisle so we'll see how she runs o the way out there!

-Jon

 

[subway]

i would feel fine about motor oil and all the rest but the gear oil, that stuff is THICK. if you delute it enought it should be fine though which looks like you are.

 

[funnyman06]

Sounds like an IDI long island ice tea lol

 

[Agnem]

Just remember I do not recommend running WMO with a Moose Pump, and my builder will not warranty any problems caused by bad fuel.

 

[greg_a_morton]

I am assuming you use wmo in all your trucks mel, how have the pumps worked for you using it?

 

[Bunookana]

Let me get this straight. 6.9PoweredScout, you are running gear oil, engine oil, and atf all through the fuel system to run the engine?

 

[Agnem]

I am assuming you use wmo in all your trucks mel, how have the pumps worked for you using it?

No. Only the Moosestang runs on it. And it does not have a Moose Pump. I don't like running it. It's ******* the engine and the fuel system, makes a lot more smoke, smells bad, and is a pain in the butt to collect, process and mess with. But, when you drive 110 miles a day to make a living, you end up thinking like a trucker... whatever you have to do to make money, even if it costs you some to do it. It's strictly a financial decision. I can buy a new IP every year if I want, for the money I save on diesel.

 

[6.9poweredscout]

Yeah that, out of SEALED bottles, plus over 25 gallons of diesel fuel.

-Jon

 

[dyoung14]

So why are you reving your truck to 4500 any ways?

Right now i dont, but drive out here and i will crank the pump were i had it and take you for a ride and i will show you why i tach it that high

 

[Clydesdale]

not arguing.. but sometimes I wonder how much of that ^ is more percieved due to exhaust decibels, and the inherent feeling of wrong (like the first time you sleep with your cousin/sheep/best friend etc.) knowing that you are revving that motor well past the point of implosion...

Get her back on the road, show us a dyno, or a track time, shifting it like a respectable person, and driving it like you stole it...

 

[dyoung14]

not arguing.. but sometimes I wonder how much of that ^ is more percieved due to exhaust decibels, and the inherent feeling of wrong (like the first time you sleep with your cousin/sheep/best friend etc.) knowing that you are revving that motor well past the point of implosion...

Get her back on the road, show us a dyno, or a track time, shifting it like a respectable person, and driving it like you stole it...

When i can afford it i will run her down the track and post time slips, much cheaper than dyno

 

[Diesel JD]

Honestly I don't even like revving a gasser to 4500, but hey you've taken enough abuse here for doing what you want with your own stuff. I think the IDI bottom end can take it but the rotating mass should probably be balanced to 5000 rpm and have upgraded valve springs to do it right. Anything under 4000 rpm is probably not going to hurt one in the near to medium term. Back on topic, I think all these fuel cocktails we have have different cetane contents and differing BTU/unit composition as well as different burn rates. My engine has always sounded a little different on my biodiesel than it did on pump fuel. In general the higher cetane you have and lower btu/unit the more advanced the timing should be. WMO has higher BTU but lower cetane much like the old "dirty diesel" that existed in the 80s when these pumps came to be, so probably you should be closer to 3.5* ATDC with lumy and 6.5 pulse with it, whereas with pump fuel or even moreso, biodiesel or WVO you need to be closer to 9.5-9.7 pulse or 0-1.5 lumy.

 

[opusd2]

You know, as a thicker fuel the waste oil may actually help the rings seal a little. It helps on an old tractor we have, and a well worn IH 856 that needed oil poured into the intake to provide enough compression in order to start the pig. After it started, it ran just not very much power

 

[Clydesdale]

When i can afford it i will run her down the track and post time slips, much cheaper than dyno

Love to see the results, so the nay sayers will either be shut up or validated.