Refreshing my 7.3l n/a... Need some advice

My9373

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Ok so yesterday I came home and saw something hanging underneath. I pulled it out and it turned out to be a strand of my serp belt! Apperently it had deteriorated yesterday and about 4 of the six band in it stripped off and flung about inside the engine bay. One even wrapped itself around the main engine pulley tightly and was a bear to get undone. Anyways, I parked the truck and fired up the jeep for this week and this weekend I plan on replacing the belt, but while im in there I decided I want to get a few other things done. First, my passenger side valve cover has had that common slow leak so I want to buy new gaskets and then ill take off the alternator and w/s and whatever I have to on the d/s and replace the gaskets. But while I have everything apart and the covers off, anything I should inspect replace or even upgrade while im in it? Before reassembly im going to repaint the covers and air cleaner but I was also thinking about doing the soup bow mod too while im in there and changing the filter. What else do y'all recommend while im at it?

Second, after I replace everything and have it all back together I want to do a full coolant flush. What is the correct procedure for flushing my diesel and how many gallons and of what brand do I need to replace it with? I want to keep this truck running strong and I have to really keep up with maintenance having 262k now. Thanks for the help guys!

EDIT: also, probably this weekend I want to upgrade most of my front end to moog parts (ball joints, tierods, etc) so I was wondering if someone had the part numbers for these parts already and knew of a good place to get them. So far rockauto seems pretty fair on moog part prices, and what are the most essential parts to replace? My purpose is to eliminate my insanely noisey front end, bangs and rattles like crazy over bumps, and also because ill be buying a plow for it this winter and I want to start replacing everything the plow is going to strain now because I know the factory parts are not gonna cut it. Thanks again!
 
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Vfelix702

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Soup Bowl mod

here is my intake mod i did and my 90 f250 5speed 4x4
 

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My9373

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Nice truck, love the tints that's next for me. But I also like the intake too what did you do just remove the plastic piece and add the filter? What's wrapped around where it connects, tape? And did you modify the soup bowl itself too and remove the inner filter too? Thanks
 

My9373

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Wait sorry didn't realize you fully removed the soup bowl, how did you do that and did you notice any changes?
 

Vfelix702

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the soup bowl i took off its just sitting the the truck of my 83 mercedes turbo diesel

as far as the intake on the idi it is a 5 to 4in no-hub and a 4 in 90 with 4 in flex duct and a cone filter i was going to make it out of 4 in abs but could make the bends around the compressor. the no-hub and 90 i for at home depot the duct tape was temperoy it is now clear siliconed to there is straight suction from the filter it put it on in january and have had no issues :)
 

Vfelix702

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well it is more throaty -er lol the more air you can provide is always better and yes a diffrence in take off because it is not restricted
 

FORDF250HDXLT

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EDIT: also, probably this weekend I want to upgrade most of my front end to moog parts (ball joints, tierods, etc) so I was wondering if someone had the part numbers for these parts already and knew of a good place to get them. So far rockauto seems pretty fair on moog part prices, and what are the most essential parts to replace? My purpose is to eliminate my insanely noisey front end, bangs and rattles like crazy over bumps, and also because ill be buying a plow for it this winter and I want to start replacing everything the plow is going to strain now because I know the factory parts are not gonna cut it. Thanks again!

Federal Mogul - Moog Upper & Lower Ball Joints #K80026/#K8435
amazon.com
(i was shipped Made in the USA Moogs from here fyi.)
not sure on the tierods.mine where still good.im sure you'll find 'em easy enough though.good luck.

however i buy from rockauto too.
i was sent a 5% discount code today,that states in the e-mail it is free to share.so just in case this helps:
56514684694300
Using Your Discount Code
Enter the code above in the "How did you hear about us" line of the shopping cart. If you are using our traditional HTML catalog, please click the "Apply" button to the right of the field. Your discount will automatically appear, subtracted from your order total.

Please note: We sometimes get calls from people who put the word "discount" in front of their code and do not get the discount. Please enter ONLY the discount code, no other words or numbers.

The discount takes 5% off our already-low prices. There's no limit on order size or the number of orders. Use the code for your next order, and share the code with friends, neighbors, relatives, the guy at the corner garage--anyone you know who works on cars or trucks.

This discount code expires on July 10, 2011; so don't wait!
 
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My9373

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Awesome thanks for the pn. And code. How much were they on amazon?

Also felix, I think I will try a similar setup to what you're running there I like that design idea alot. Might fabricate some sort of splash shield though because my truck sees a lot of water and watery mud too and I don't need that in there.
 

GOOSE

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I am running Catapillar 50/50 mix. It already has the SCA additative and no need to worry about de-mineralized water. It will take an honest 6 gallons. Have you thought about adding a coolant filter while the system is apart? It would also be a good time for return lines if you haven't done so lately. Golwplugs are also staring you in the face. I am not sure whare you stand on these, just suggestions.:dunno Best of luck as always.;Sweet

Edit: perfect time for oil cooler rebuild also.
 
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Vfelix702

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Well over the cone filter you can put a prefilter "media" over the cone and when its dirty it slides right off and its washable and slides on similar to the pre filte around the actual filter you find on like a carberated dirt bike and such
 

My9373

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GOOSE:
-So with that caterpillar 50/50 mix, you don't have to add any distilled or w/e water with it, just about 6 gallons worth of coolant?

-Is the coolant filter something to be added or something to be changed out? If added how do I go about doing that? At my high mileage I want to do every little maintenance mod I can to increase this trucks lifespan.

-Return lines and GPs are probably also a good idea, how much does a return line set cost and how hard are they to replace? Same with GPs, what is an estimated cost and difficulty of installation?

-pretty repetitive question, how difficult is the oil cooler rebuild also? I'm still learning these diesels and having fun learning, but I need plenty of help with the things I'm still unfamiliar with.

I'm almost thinking about pulling the radiator out as well, replacing all of the hoses to it just in case, and also pulling out the much smaller radiator in front of the radiator as well (Tranny cooler maybe??) and cleaning them both. They both are especially covered in this thick black gunk on the smaller radiator side, and it doesn't seem like it would be good for the fins. If the rad. is in really rough shape, might just replace it altogether. What's better, the regular Autozone replacement or an Aluminum one?

Thanks,
 

My9373

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Felix, how did you affix the cone filter onto the flex hose, and what are you using to support it, just a metal wire rig?
 

Vfelix702

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There is a metal sleeve i have inserted in the 4in ductwork that allows for the filter to be tighten ill take a pic tommorw
 

Vfelix702

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The wire setup is stainless steel tie wire found at the parts store and yes its wrapped around the filter on both ends around the come and attached to the rad shroud I figuered leaving it suspended like this it won't vibrate loose if that makes since and so far it hasn't given me any problems
 

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