Redneck 6.9 Rebuild (don't try this at home)

[bbjordan]

Upgrade update

So it's been almost 5 years since the rebuild, and the engine is still running fine. Originally, I had planned on putting a turbo on it, hence the ARP head studs. I had been collecting parts this whole time, but earlier this year I came across an almost complete turbo set-up at Pick-N-Pull. Finally, this weekend, I was motivated enough to install it.

Before pic: This is what happens when you seal up your engine really good. I doesn't leak oil everywhere and it rusts! Check out the valve cover.

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Disassembly was pretty straight forward. I expected the exhaust studs on the passenger side to give me grief, but I hit them with a bit of heat from the propane torch, and with a little effort they came out without breaking. Win!

As can be seen, the stock glow plug controller has been disconnected. In its place I have a manual system that uses 8 30 Amp relays (one for each glow plug). In the normally open/rest position, the relays are hooked up so I can get a millivolt reading from each plug. That white wire is a Cat 5 Ethernet cable (8 strands) that goes into the cab that I plan to hook up to a millivolt meter eventually. I had to move the ground connection because the lifting bracket had to go. I had to shorten the bolts a little bit after removing the bracket.
I also had to shorten the bolts connecting the lower portion of the up-pipe to the passenger's side exhaust manifold.

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Pulled the drivers side valve cover, as it had to be replaced with one that accommodates the CDR. Looks nice and clean with the cover off.

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Fresh paint.

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[bbjordan]

The junkyard turbo:

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Mounted. The relay pack had to be moved one relay further left. Not because it interfered with the turbo, but because it interfered with the oil line. Doh!

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To get the squished down pipe in, the firewall seam got modified. This will be needed when I eventually upgrade to a 3" downpipe.

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Almost there. I dropped the clamp bolt and nut. I fished the bolt out, but couldn't find the nut. Not underneath the truck. Hmm, fish around with the magnet some more. No luck.
climbed into the engine compartment some more to see it I could spot it. Anyone watching would have thought the truck was eating me. I did find the nut. The magnet didn't pick it up because it is non-magnetic stainless steel!



I still have to fab up an intake system, and deal with the CDR. I might do a Road Draft Tube, but I doubt it. On the down side, while underneath the truck, I noticed the transfer case seal is leaking, and I need some need u-joints. Didn't I just replace those? Oh ya, that was five years ago!

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[bbjordan]

First fire-up after installing the turbo. It sounds the same as when it had the muffler on. The turbo is very quiet.

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[Thewespaul]

nice, doesnt seem like five years ago I was following this budget build...

 

[david85]

Only finding this now. Donating used piston rings from another engine??

So many questions...did you hone/deglaze the cylinders, wonder what sort of compression numbers it would test at, etc...WHO CARES!!!

Whatever you did, you did it right! Well done!

 

[bbjordan]

After some pondering of what to do for the intake, I like the idea of a BHAF similar to what I have in the 1997 Project truck. There is enough room over the passenger side inner fender, but unfortunately getting there is a problem. My electric fuel pump is in the way, as is the fuel filter. And the electric coolant heater (for winter starts) may have to go too. So be it.

I mocked up a bracket for the new fuel pump location out of a piece of sheet metal that was left over from a clothes dryer heater element that I used for my WMO system. Puttin g the fuel

New fuel pump location beside the windshield washer juice container. Putting the fuel pump there will actually shorten the fuel line because I'm still using the factory fuel water separator:

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The metal piece:

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After cutting and bending:

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Mocked up with the spare electric pump:

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Had to notch the bracket for clearance:

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[bbjordan]

So, for the guys that were wondering what those two bolt holes were on the intake manifold...they are for the van fuel filter mount! I will be using the van FF mount to relocate the fuel filter out of the way.

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You can also see the road draft tube that I kludged together. It exits after the front fuel tank:

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I think this is going to work. That fitting will have to be changed, but I already have the right part on the existing FF head. Next, coolant heater delete. Hmm, I see I need to paint the FF head. One of my mentors once said "If you don't know what you're doing, at least make your work neat."

 

[bbjordan]

Yesterday I spent working on the 1997 Project Part Truck, but today, I got back at this and made some more progress.

Today was "Not gonna find it day". The universe was playing tricks with me today. It seemed that whatever I was looking for was not going to be found. I would have to move on to doing something else, and then the tool or part would show up. Frustrating.

The corners of the electric pump bracket got re-enforced. It also got painted along with the van FF head. The FF head got plumbed into the IP, and the line from the water/fuel separator got moved to the electric pump.

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The old fuel filter bracket got cut down and painted. That really opened it up. The alternator should be able to breathe easier now. Not that it's a problem. The return line from the filter head and the block-off cap also swapped sides.

Some of you may recognize the silver piece attached to the turbo boot as a piece off of a 7.3 PSD. It already has the piece to plumb in the crankcase breather. I should be able to connect that to the CDR and get rid of the road draft tube. The end you are looking at has a 4 inch diameter. Same as the 6637 filter. Coincidence? I think not. If the filter physically fits in the allotted space, I will be tickled pink!

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Another view:

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Now to find a cheap 6637 air filter. Napa wants $65. for one here.

 

[bbjordan]

A video of it running. It's kinda dark as it was late, but it still sounds good.

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[Sidewinded_idi]

Well done! Where did you get that fuel pump?

 

[Thewespaul]

Looks good, I found the cheapest 6637 filters on ebay but after running mine, I think I'm going to this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DONALDSON-B...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

6637 only flows 430 cfm

 

[laserjock]

Amazon was much cheaper than Napa for the filters.

 

[bbjordan]

Well done! Where did you get that fuel pump?

There was a group buy a while back. genlightning was the member here who organized it.

I'm very happy with it. It even survived pumping 100% biodiesel!

I highly recommend the electric fuel pump upgrade.

 

[bbjordan]

Looks good, I found the cheapest 6637 filters on ebay but after running mine, I think I'm going to this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DONALDSON-B105006-Air-Filter-AH19037-PA2820-Napa-2790-Cummins-BHAF-Air-Filter/262357606279?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

6637 only flows 430 cfm

I've noticed the Donaldson B085011 as a cross for the 6637, but I'll have to check out the B105006. Thanks!

 

[bbjordan]

Ok, so here is where we left off:

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I finally got the Project Parts Truck and the antique together. I took the 6637 air filter off of the PPT for a test fitting on the antique.

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Boo Ya! And the hood even closes! Who knew it would be that simple?

If you have AC, it might be a different story. Here's another shot showing how close it is to the Heater box. There is enough room to move the filter closer to the passenger fender. With an extension of 4" pipe and boot, it might clear the AC lines.

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