Thought I'd share some info on my installation of a Racor 500FG2 fuel filter / water separator on my '93 F250 7.3 IDI. I searched for info on this on this forum and others and really didn't find any. I'm posting to fill this gap and help others. I'm not a super gear head or nothing and I'm sure there is room for improvement, but I'm happy with it.
This started when I was on a road trip in my truck and the fuel filter light went on solid. Had to limp the last 25 miles or so at low speeds to keep from making lots of white smoke. Changed the fuel filter and all was well on the 170 mile trip back. But it seems like the truck likes to eat fuel filters and they are about $50 each. So, I wanted a different alternative. The Racor replacement elements for the 500FG2 are about $8. A friend suggested that maybe it's not the filter, but a weak lift pump. The truck has a new IP and injectors and I've always wanted to put a new lift pump on. So I did the lift pump and the Racor at the same time. I left the original fuel filter in place. This allows the existing fuel filter light on the dash to still warn of fuel pressure problems.
About the 7.3 IDI fuel system. From what I read, the existing lift pump should generate about 4.5 to 5 PSI of pressure and it pumps though the stock spin on filter. The filter is on the pressure side of the lift pump which is not ideal for water separation. The stock filter is a 10 micron filter and the system needs about 30 gallons per hour (GPH) of throughput.
About the Racor 500FG2. This is the smallest filter in their "turbine" line of filters. I wanted one of these because the replacement elements are very cheap. The filter drains from the bottom and the elements are changed from the top, so it's much easier and less messy to change the elements. And much cheaper. And the large fuel bowl allows you to see if there is water or gunk in the fuel. The other non-turbine filters use a spin on element that costs about $20. I put one of these on my tractor and it's working great. The 500FG2 can have 2, 10 and 30 micron elements. I used a 2 micron. The filter supports up to 60 GPH throughput which is way more than I need, but it was the smallest one that used the cheap filter elements. The filter itself was about $180. NOTE: The inlet and outlet on the filter have weird threads and you need to get some adapters for the input and output threads to 3/8" NTP. These are pretty cheap. Got the filter and the adapters from RacorStore.com. Got my other Racor from them and they seem to have very good prices.
Where to mount it?! So this is not a small filter. I stewed about mounting for quite a while. I knew I'd have to make a custom mounting bracket, but it was actually pretty simple.
This is the first version of my bracket, which didn't give as much clearance as I wanted, but it's the best pic I have to show the basic location and concept.
It's just a piece of 1.5" angle that has two holes drilled in it so that it will mount on top of the alternator using the existing alternator mounting bolts. They seem to have plenty of thread left (~3/4") after the bracket was installed. The first version of the bracket just had two studs sticking out the side to mount the filter. This option only gave about 1/2" -3/4" clearance with the fender wall which made me a little nervous.
After some thinking, I noticed that I had plenty of room to move the filter up vertically and this would gain my more clearance. It turns out that it also allowed me to move the filter over a little also. So here is the final version of the bracket.
So, I just cut the old studs off and welded a couple of 1.5"x1.5" pieces of flat stock on top and put new studs on them. If I were to do this again, I'd just use a couple of 1.5" long pieces of angle. Easier to attach and you could probably build the bracket without welding capability if you did it this way. To put the studs in, I used a 5/16" bolt, drilled and tapped a hole, threaded it through, cut it off, and tack welded it on the back so it would stay put. If you can't weld, just put a little thread locker (or JB weld) on the threads when you thread in the stud and it won't com off.
The new bracket put the filter in the perfect place. Moved it up and over just the right amount. Has about 2" of clearance now, which is plenty.
Plumbing the filter. The Racor filters like to be installed on the suction side of the pump (between tank and lift pump). This is because the lift pump mixes up the water in the fuel (emulsifies it) and this makes it harder to filter out. You can see the thread adapters in the picture above and below. These adapters go from the weird threads to 3/8" NPT. I put 90 degree elbows on the output and then 3/8" pipe barbs and used hose clamps to fasten the fuel line. I used that split loom protector stuff you see on electrical wires to further protect the fuel lines just in case.
Pardon my messy workbench.
On my truck, the fuel line that comes from the tank is a steel hard line. But there is about 1 ft of rubber line that joins the hard line to the lift pump. This is the perfect place to mount another filter on the suction side. So I go from the tank hard line, through the Racor, and back into the lift pump.
Now, here's something to think about. If you ever want to work on the truck, the Racor filter may get in the way. So I made the new fuel line connections extra long so that I can lift the filter up out of the way and set it to the side without disconnecting any of the lines. I made them 30" each, but if I did it again, Id make them longer. Maybe 40". Something to consider if you are going to install one of these.
Priming the system. Priming it after the install was much simpler than I though. I just filled the Racor from the top and kept pouring in diesel until the level stopped dropping from fuel filling up the lines and such. Then I used the "screw driver method" of turning over the engine with the key out and relieved air from the schrader valve on the existing stock filter housing. I got tired of this and just started up the engine and ran back to open the schrader valve. Piece o' cake. I did this while the engine was plugged up and warm so that starting was easy. The engine never even burbled at all. I let it rung for about 15 min and then drove it 5 miles or so without incident. Seems very happy and the the 2 micron filter is protecting the lift pump from debris and giving the IP much cleaner fuel.
Anyway, I'm happy with it. I'm sure someone can improve on it. If you have any questions let me know.
Hope that helps someone!
--- Lobanz
This started when I was on a road trip in my truck and the fuel filter light went on solid. Had to limp the last 25 miles or so at low speeds to keep from making lots of white smoke. Changed the fuel filter and all was well on the 170 mile trip back. But it seems like the truck likes to eat fuel filters and they are about $50 each. So, I wanted a different alternative. The Racor replacement elements for the 500FG2 are about $8. A friend suggested that maybe it's not the filter, but a weak lift pump. The truck has a new IP and injectors and I've always wanted to put a new lift pump on. So I did the lift pump and the Racor at the same time. I left the original fuel filter in place. This allows the existing fuel filter light on the dash to still warn of fuel pressure problems.
About the 7.3 IDI fuel system. From what I read, the existing lift pump should generate about 4.5 to 5 PSI of pressure and it pumps though the stock spin on filter. The filter is on the pressure side of the lift pump which is not ideal for water separation. The stock filter is a 10 micron filter and the system needs about 30 gallons per hour (GPH) of throughput.
About the Racor 500FG2. This is the smallest filter in their "turbine" line of filters. I wanted one of these because the replacement elements are very cheap. The filter drains from the bottom and the elements are changed from the top, so it's much easier and less messy to change the elements. And much cheaper. And the large fuel bowl allows you to see if there is water or gunk in the fuel. The other non-turbine filters use a spin on element that costs about $20. I put one of these on my tractor and it's working great. The 500FG2 can have 2, 10 and 30 micron elements. I used a 2 micron. The filter supports up to 60 GPH throughput which is way more than I need, but it was the smallest one that used the cheap filter elements. The filter itself was about $180. NOTE: The inlet and outlet on the filter have weird threads and you need to get some adapters for the input and output threads to 3/8" NTP. These are pretty cheap. Got the filter and the adapters from RacorStore.com. Got my other Racor from them and they seem to have very good prices.
Where to mount it?! So this is not a small filter. I stewed about mounting for quite a while. I knew I'd have to make a custom mounting bracket, but it was actually pretty simple.
This is the first version of my bracket, which didn't give as much clearance as I wanted, but it's the best pic I have to show the basic location and concept.
You must be registered for see images attach
It's just a piece of 1.5" angle that has two holes drilled in it so that it will mount on top of the alternator using the existing alternator mounting bolts. They seem to have plenty of thread left (~3/4") after the bracket was installed. The first version of the bracket just had two studs sticking out the side to mount the filter. This option only gave about 1/2" -3/4" clearance with the fender wall which made me a little nervous.
After some thinking, I noticed that I had plenty of room to move the filter up vertically and this would gain my more clearance. It turns out that it also allowed me to move the filter over a little also. So here is the final version of the bracket.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
So, I just cut the old studs off and welded a couple of 1.5"x1.5" pieces of flat stock on top and put new studs on them. If I were to do this again, I'd just use a couple of 1.5" long pieces of angle. Easier to attach and you could probably build the bracket without welding capability if you did it this way. To put the studs in, I used a 5/16" bolt, drilled and tapped a hole, threaded it through, cut it off, and tack welded it on the back so it would stay put. If you can't weld, just put a little thread locker (or JB weld) on the threads when you thread in the stud and it won't com off.
The new bracket put the filter in the perfect place. Moved it up and over just the right amount. Has about 2" of clearance now, which is plenty.
You must be registered for see images attach
Plumbing the filter. The Racor filters like to be installed on the suction side of the pump (between tank and lift pump). This is because the lift pump mixes up the water in the fuel (emulsifies it) and this makes it harder to filter out. You can see the thread adapters in the picture above and below. These adapters go from the weird threads to 3/8" NPT. I put 90 degree elbows on the output and then 3/8" pipe barbs and used hose clamps to fasten the fuel line. I used that split loom protector stuff you see on electrical wires to further protect the fuel lines just in case.
You must be registered for see images attach
Pardon my messy workbench.
On my truck, the fuel line that comes from the tank is a steel hard line. But there is about 1 ft of rubber line that joins the hard line to the lift pump. This is the perfect place to mount another filter on the suction side. So I go from the tank hard line, through the Racor, and back into the lift pump.
Now, here's something to think about. If you ever want to work on the truck, the Racor filter may get in the way. So I made the new fuel line connections extra long so that I can lift the filter up out of the way and set it to the side without disconnecting any of the lines. I made them 30" each, but if I did it again, Id make them longer. Maybe 40". Something to consider if you are going to install one of these.
Priming the system. Priming it after the install was much simpler than I though. I just filled the Racor from the top and kept pouring in diesel until the level stopped dropping from fuel filling up the lines and such. Then I used the "screw driver method" of turning over the engine with the key out and relieved air from the schrader valve on the existing stock filter housing. I got tired of this and just started up the engine and ran back to open the schrader valve. Piece o' cake. I did this while the engine was plugged up and warm so that starting was easy. The engine never even burbled at all. I let it rung for about 15 min and then drove it 5 miles or so without incident. Seems very happy and the the 2 micron filter is protecting the lift pump from debris and giving the IP much cleaner fuel.
Anyway, I'm happy with it. I'm sure someone can improve on it. If you have any questions let me know.
Hope that helps someone!
--- Lobanz
