pyrometer weirdness and cold starting issue

SPR1NK

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so now that i have the new engine in the truck i have a cold start issue, last the truck ran was last night, go to start it around 2pm today, about 80-85 degrees out, Cycle glow plugs for 5 seconds, cranks over, no fire, try it again, fires but runs terribly and white smokes for a like 30 seconds to a minute then smooths right out smoke clears up and sounds great, am i getting air in the system somehow as it sits? Currently has a facet duralift fuel pump, all new injectors and return caps/lines, new filter, new ip, new everything and i can't see any leaks anywhere

as far as the pyro issue, it works perfectly fine as long as i don't use the heater or headlights, but as soon as i turn one of those on the pyro drops to like 100* and doesn't move again until i shut the heater/headlights off, i put a new voltage regulator on it just to see if that was the issue and the volt gauge reads higher now(Factory gauge) but it still does it, bad alternator? Or do i have a short somewhere?
 

Thewespaul

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Do you loose voltage when heater is on? I would put a clear hose on the inlet to the ip to see if there is air in the line
 

SPR1NK

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voltage gauge drops considerably when the heater is on

just checked voltage at batteries with engine running, getting 14.7
 

SPR1NK

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no, it drops to the second little white mark with the heater on, and drops all the way to the first little white mark with heater and lights on
 

jwalterus

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you're fine, middle is 14v, it's dropping to just under 12v with everything running

or else the middle is 13 and you are dropping to 11.......

I can't friggin' remember now! LOL

either way you are fine
 

SPR1NK

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so why does the pyrometer drop out when i turn on the heater then if everything is fine?

since i have the multi meter out i decided to check the voltage of the power wire to the pyrometer, heater off 14.7, heater on 13.5, so it has power, did my gauge die?
 

jwalterus

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try running a ground from gauge to battery

if it still acts up, run power as well

if both to battery fix it, you should run a circuit with a relay
 

SPR1NK

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seems to be the ground, so apparently the place i had it grounded in the cab is no longer a good ground, i wonder why that is
 

DaveBen

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The cab should be grounded to the frame and the frame grounded to the battery.
 

Pork_Chop50

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In regards to air intrusion did you also replace the olives (rubber compression fittings) for the hard lines coming from the filter head to IP and into the filter? The final one I've had issues with is the o-ring for the fuel heater connector, which is available through a Navistar/International dealer. Part #1811053C1 will get you the right fit. good luck
 

SPR1NK

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strangely the starting issue seems to have gone away without me changing anything, but i will still be checking all of that to see if air is getting in
 

Pork_Chop50

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A few years ago I had the air issue causing starting issues, but just recently (this winter) I was plagued with similar issues. It wouldn't happen every day, but occasionally it just took a lot of cranking to get going. Turned out to be a weak battery, but it took me weeks to definitively trouble shoot the issue. I say all this because it is likely that your ground issue was causing some cold start problems. Just more food for thought.
 

SPR1NK

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but the only thing i changed as far as the ground was moving the pyrometer ground to the battery
 

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