Push button start using only starter solenoid

[jake450694]

The ignition switch went out in my 85 6.9 non turbo, key still gives power but not ignition. I am going to put a push button start because it's easy and I think they are cool. Everything I've read says to splice into the stock ignition wires but I don't have a voltmeter and don't see a blue/red wire. Is it fine to just run two wires from the push button to the starter solenoid, one to the top post and one to the hot post? This is how I've been starting my truck for the last 3 days anyway. More so asking if it is safe, assuming I have an inline fuse. Thanks
Jake

 

[riotwarrior]

Fuse wire near battery you should be good

 

[FordGuy100]

Thats what I did, but used a momentary on toggle. That was back in my HS days when things like that were cool It will eventually get fixed the right way.

 

[rhkcommander]

I have a pushbutton starter, been working great for several years now. I use anti-vandal waterproof switches. One for the glowplugs one for the starter. I have had the cast iron wishbone in the steering column go (ignition actuator I think it is called), its fixed now but to avoid straining it I use the push button anyways.

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wow that picture looks like crap. Anyway, I added an LED to both push buttons - helps to make sure they are working. Top switches are toggle switches, one for fog lights and one to manually activate reverse lights, both have LEDs too. They make vandla switches with LEDs in them now, but I already had these, these switches will last forever, and it only takes a minute to swap out burnt LEDs when mounted separately

 

[jake450694]

Cool, thanks for the imput guys. Im sure eventually I will fix it right but for now the push button is working awesome and only took me about 30 min to hook up. Im just glad im not out there with a screwdriver under the hood anymore........

 

[rhkcommander]

Cool, thanks for the imput guys. Im sure eventually I will fix it right but for now the push button is working awesome and only took me about 30 min to hook up. Im just glad im not out there with a screwdriver under the hood anymore........

I'm sure you did fine, a small fuse from the power-side is all you need, a 5A is plenty. Also I suggest this to anyone - get a toggle switch ( I used a rocker switch), a little wire and two crimp on ring terminals - one big one that fits the hot post on the relay and one small one that fits the signal terminal. No more using a screwdriver

I have had to use this sometimes when I want to crank the engine but need both hands. Flip the switch and it will crank until you flip it again. No more using a screwdriver and/or needing a helper.

 

[Waystro]

Ok so a question. If a push button works but the key won't what's the deal
i ask because I'm kinda going through the same thing.

 

[riotwarrior]

Ok so a question. If a push button works but the key won't what's the deal
i ask because I'm kinda going through the same thing.

30 sumptin year old truck...worn ign switch.mechanisms...try as I suggested...playing with adjustment of switch on column...it slides up n down a wee bit...could be out just "THAT MUCH"

JM7.3CW

 

[rhkcommander]

Ok so a question. If a push button works but the key won't what's the deal
i ask because I'm kinda going through the same thing.

Ignition actuator
That would be this guy. After fixing it, keep using the pushbutton to keep from breaking it again. It's cheap cast crap metal

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Sorry for linking another forum but it is applicable... if someone has a similar writeup on OBN please post.
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1130372-ignition-actuator-the-easy-way.html

Two posts from the thread if you can't read it:

As many many ford truck owners have experienced before me, I was hit with the "my key turns but doesn't start the truck" syndrome. The symptoms are usually: key powers up the accessories, can turn all the way forward, but wont initiate the starter, and wont spring back the the "run" position.

After much fear inducing research, leading me to believe I needed to do a frame off resto just to replace a 14 dollar part, I came across this video of an alternate way to do it. And thank my lucky stars I did, because I did it in about 1.5 hours in 11 degree weather.

Anyway, I hope this helps anyone that is plagued with having to start their truck from under the hood.

How to fix the ignition switch on 1980 91 ford pickups with tilt steering Part 1 - YouTube

How to fix the ignition switch in 1980 91 ford pickups with tilt steering Part 2 - YouTube

watch parts 1 & 2. I just did this yesterday to mine and the method this guy does it is, by far and long, way easier than doing it the "propper" way.

The key cylinder engages the arm at the lowest point in the picture and "pushes" the arm down the column. this causes stress on the area I labeled "breaks here", and if its cold, it seems the stress is too much, so it breaks.


The piece is about 1/4 inch too long to get into the guide hole without taking the column apart, so if you break off the block at the end that i marked in blue it will fit with some minor finesse. However, as far as I can tell, the only thing the block at the end of the rod does is engage the interlock so you have to hit the button under the column to get the key out.

You need:
Phillips screwdriver, 15/16" socket, Steering wheel puller (can loan from parts store), Ford ignition actuator ($14+/-), needle nose pliers, regular pliers, and plenty of patients. (i broke one of the ears off to get the teeny tiny pin out instead of using a punch)

Watch the video and you should be able to get it no problem if you are at all mechanically inclined.

Disclaimer: I am NOT a mechanic. This may not be the BEST way to do it, and there may be a better alternative. This is just the way that I did it, and my truck is perfectly operational (also, I prefer not having to hit the switch to get the key out).

Good luck

and

This is my personal write-up from the last time I did mine:

Steps for Replacing Steering Column Actuator 1987-91

1) Remove steering wheel.
2) Remove the turn signal lever.
3) Remove two-piece plastic column cover that hides column where it meets dash.
4) Drop column down and remove ignition switch. Put column back up but do not tighten bolts.
5) Remove ignition lock cylinder.
6) Remove lock cylinder gear (snap ring pliers required). It is down in the hole that you took the lock cylinder out of.
7) Disconnect turn signal switch harness and then pull turn signal switch out and let it hang by wires.
8) Remove ignition lock cylinder collar (slide it over the turn signal switch).
9) Press actuator and rod towards dash so you can remove the actuator gear (the thing with the gear teeth on it that is linked to the actuator and rod).
10) Remove the snap ring on steering shaft.
11) Remove the little round metal bar (multiple bends in it) and two clips that operates the tilt. PAY ATTENTION HERE - there is a little spring like out of pen that is behind it with a metal cap on it. Remove that so you don’t lose it.
12) Drive the pin out of the tilt lock lever on the underside of the column. There is a spring underneath it with a plastic pad so pull those out too so you don’t lose them.
13) Thread a bolt or screw into the inside threaded pins that hold the tilt together and pull them out. You should put the tilt all the way up before you do this so you unload the spring.
14) Slide the tilt collar towards you on the shaft enough to get the actuator and rod out.
15) Pull the actuator and rod out. Put in vise and drive the little pin out to separate rod and actuator. Reassemble with new actuator. TIP – use a pair of pliers to press the pin back in so you don’t have to hit on it with a hammer.
16) Put a light coat of grease on the slides where the actuator goes and put the assembled actuator and rod back into column.
17) Put a light coat of grease on the swivel where the tilt collar goes and press the pins back in. TIP – You will be fighting the spring to do this so it helps to stick a screw in one side to hold it in place, then line up the other side and put a pin in. Once you have the pin in on one side, replace the screw on the first side with the other pin.
18) Reassemble starting with step #12 and go in reverse. TIP – Put a light coating of grease in the lock cylinder collar where the actuator gear and cylinder gear go.

Good luck