No More Vacuum Brakes....

icanfixall

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Well, I finally decided to remove the old vacuum booster and boy-o-boy I hate getting down under the dash....-cuss Anyway, I got the 4 nuts off the booster and pushed it out. The engine compartment has more room in it now. I started the installation of my 1999 hydroboost booster I paid .99 cents for on Ebay. I really scored a deal on that one. The seller set the price without a BIN or rerserve so I was the only bidder....;Sweet Now if my new cam and crank gear set will get here I'll be driving my truck in July for the first time since November when it burned down because of as freeze plug leaving me on the freeway....-cuss -cuss Damn crappy machine shop not kmowing or having the proper tool to install them.....-cuss
 

icanfixall

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You guys know of all the crap I've gone thru just trying to get my motor back together would be a lifestime of trouble for most here. Its really nice to sometimes "fall into something good". I mean not something that leaves you smelling bad and feeling terrible about what you have just done or has been done to you. The seller that has my gears was having a family emercency and has finally after 2 weeks shipped my parts from the East. So, things do have a way of "finding" me don't they....:dunno
 

typ4

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Why arent you using the old ones????
 

icanfixall

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Russ, I've always wanted the hydroboost system and the serpenyine belt setup so thats what I'm up to now. I just tried to install the booster.....-cuss It wont match up the my bolt pattern on the firewall... Damn it anyway. Looks like I need a differant mounting pad. Gees.....:dunno
 

typ4

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No no no, the timing gears, I know why you want the booster, I love mine and it stops so much better, I took mine off of a 97 f450 and it bolted right up. Had to move the rod anchor up half an inch but it works awesome. Filed the original master to fit also. Also makes tons of room for intercooler piping.;Sweet
 

icanfixall

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Sorry Russ. I didn't know what you were asking. My booster came off the 1999 to 2005 trucks. I'll bet its a metric thing....:dunno I bought a set of gears off Ebay for about $40.00. Mine are fine but new is always better and getting a good price helps out. I didn't have any problem with backlash and the crank to cam gear end play was .006 so they were fine. The new cam gear has the balance lug in it and does not have the 2 threaded holes for the gear puller on it. These motors have a balance issue. Even when my "other" motor was balanced it still had a harmonic balance issue. At idle it would vibrate ever so slightly about every 7 seconds. The original motor did the same even after the trans was replaced 4 times. So now I hope the balance will be better and I loose this vrbration issue that has been with me for years. BTW my pistons came out about 1/2 to 3/4 grams differance from heaviest to lighteat. The balance shop told me just get them as close to 2 grams as possible. So I did. If these motors turned up around 9000 rpm or higher then zero differance between piston weights would be what you try for.
 

typ4

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Mine was nice and smooth before the piston change. the shop balanced to 3 tenths of a gram. the new pistons are weight matched to the same level but being .020 over they are heavier, not quite as smooth but way better than stock. ;Sweet
How far are you from running/???
 

icanfixall

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Well.... The heads are on and the cam along with the new gears are in and timed. I feel the intake manifold needs to be milled to fit. I tried fitting it on with the old valley pan and it was not fitting right. I'll probably take 10 thousands off each side because it sits up higher than I like. The back of the manifold holds down the back end of the valley pan and it isn't touching it yet when I bolted down the manifold. The decking of the block has brought the heads closer together. You wouldn't think the really small amount that was taken off would cause any problems but it seems to have. Tonkadr mentioned this so I figured I should check it out. I don't like last minute surprises when the RTV is wet.... I may be milling the injection pump gear tower also. When I was running my other motor I had plenty of gear slop/ I thought I could hear it while idleing so maybe a 20 thousands mill will bring it down closer to the new cam gear. Tomorrow I will install the gear, tower and injection pump and check the gear lash. I don't think my service manual states what this lash should be but I'l do some reading tonite. I still need to shim the oil pressure regulator. I really didn't like the other motor running 44 lb warmed up at 2200 rpm. The low pressure was always fine so its the spring that needs a shim for more high rpm pressure. I'll let everyone know how much shim creates what increase in pressure. I have all the service specs on the spring and mine is in the new header I bought so we will see. You ask how far off will it sux-pop-blow-and-go??? Maybe 7 days... Maybe a few more.....:dunno My daughter just bought a Lexus something or other. All the bells and whistles so she gave me her 98 Accord.... That needs a motor. So I'm not out of work just yet. Just cleaning up for the next project..... It great being retired now. It has taken me almost exactly 1 year to adjust to it. I still have not gained any weight and my colesterol has dropped from 212 to 200 just by not eating off the lunch truck so things are looking good here...:D
 

yARIC008

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So have you actually gotten you 99 cent booster yet? I wouldn't be surprised if the guy just didn't ship it if it sold for that little. And with your luck he will defintley never ship it...LOL
 

icanfixall

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Eric..... I do have the 99 cent booster in my hands. I scored well on this one. It almost makes up for the guys that have cheated me this year. Now I need a differant mounting plate. The two I have that are mounted to the boosters are off a 1999 and a 2005 truck. They don't match my firewall so I'm looking.....
 

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