New truck; milky oil, hard start.

04_6.0

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I went from Louisiana to Texas. Yes I know that by me putting the truck in my name it is a done deal. But all in all it's still a good truck. I was angry and frustrated and just wanting to vent a little but. (Thanks for the help so far guys). I just don't see how anyone could purposely hide a major problem like this and sell it off as good. I will call and talk the the po some more tomorrow see if we can make a compromise. He told me later in a txt message that if I wanted to trade back I would have to come and get it. That's about 500-550 bucks round trip for fuel and hotel. I'm pretty sure It would cost me about 700-900 to get my old rig back to street legal so it's the same money either way. Just with the truck I have a way to pull my boat, rzr, and haul trailers.

So I will pull the glow plugs tomorrow, bar the engine over see if coolant comes out of which holes. Next ill do a compression test. Then I'll go from there. How's that sound?
 

wildman7798

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It sounds like you are leaning towards keeping the truck. If you have resigned yourself to keeping it, I would still put the squeeze on the guy and see if he will ante up any cash on the deal. You might want him to be under the impression you are gong to be bringing the truck back and see if you can get him to show his cards at all. If he really likes and wants the jeep, the last thing he wants back is this truck that is going to cost him more money and or go through the problem of trying to screw someone else and he has to sell or trade again. You actually have him by the short hairs by having title to the jeep. I'd see what the engine will need then I would get him to put in for at least half with some cash on his end for the cost of fixing the truck. If he already knows what's wrong with it he might just pay up just to be done with it. I still encourage you to contact the shop that did the work if you have the receipts, they may be holding some of the answers you need. Good luck, hopefully if ends on a good note for you.
 

icanfixall

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Sounds like you trailered this rig home. Why... You have not driven it much at all but proving that and then proving you didn't ruin it and now trying to give it back is a tuff sale. But having the pink for your jeep helps. Being honest and keeping cool will go a long ways. Asking for the moon is usually never a good thing. Splitting the costs of what many feel was a known problem before you bought this is generous of you. Probably the right thing to do in the long run. Going to court for a fraud sale is a tuff road too. Lies are not going to help either party in court either. A judge will see whats going on here easily. You traded a jeep for a truck that had the oil changed the day you trailered it home. you drove it less than 30 miles and found several gallons of water in the oil. You bought a known problem. Now if you really bought a great truck with a fine engine and it failed on you in that short amount of time I say some of the work done to is was bad crappy work.
 

bigpanda16

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Could be the intake valley drain if it's clogged, rainwater could go into an old hardened turbo drain. Happened to mine, I had a mini breakdown. Then changed the oil and cleaned the drain, good to go
 

04_6.0

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Yes I agree with everyone on the matter. I trailed the truck home because it was 8 hours away and my jeep wasn't street legal. Tires stuck out to far and drivers side turn signal was cracked. I had to get a gooseneck trailer anyways for the jeep too fit on so instead of paying for fuel in the tow rig and the new truck we stuck it on the trailer.

So I talked to the PO again and i was very straight foward with him. He agreed that whatever problem occurred was not from me and it had happened prior to me leaving with it. I asked that I could fix it would he split the cost with me. He agreed. We also agrees that I would keep all the paperwork for the jeep and keys until the truck was in working order. So that's great news now....

I did a compression check on the motor. These are the numbers I got on a cold engine at 50 degrees outside temps.

#1 390
#2 190
#3 380
#4 220
#5 390
#6 350
#7 370
#8 360

Also upon futher investigation I found 3 glow plugs that were not plugged in. Two under the turbo and #8.

Next I saw that number 8 cylinder will fill with water in about 15 minute when the radiator is full to the top. If it's not it will not fill at all. Also a small bit of water will enter the number 2&4 cylinders. I found that this bolt was not installed in the engine and it could be letting the water fill the cylinder?? It's the bolt to the top middle next to the pipe plug for coolant I believe. Valley pan? I installed another bolt in its place to see if this will help with water levels. Thinking it's a bad headgasket on the drivers side as well.

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wildman7798

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Good to hear you were able to get to a satisfactory resolution on the deal. Sounds like you did a great job getting your point across and put it on him to take responsibility. You will end up spending a little more than you thought for a truck but now you will know exactly what is under the hood when you are done. It doesn't exonerate the seller but no one really knows what he saw or did, it was still sketchy and a life lesson. All you can do is move forward and get the beast back to life !!
 

icanfixall

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Thats not a missing bolt. Thats a missing glow plug. also that engine does not look like it was taken apart and repaired like the po said it was. I really can't say from the pics if that engine has had the intake manifold off to remove the heads either. Clean off the intake port runner near the head joint to see what cylinder your looking at. All the cylinders have a number marked in the intake port near the head. I'm happy to learn the po will help with the repair costs and your keeping the pink and keys. Time to get to work so this does not run into a long drawn out mess. Those compression readings tell me the number 2 and 4 cylinders have a comp leak between them. Thats why they are low numbers. And number 8 filling with coolant is omminous to being a poor head gasket job if in fact one was even done like the po said had been done. Some people pay for work but don't get it too from shadey shops. This engine is looking like that from the pics so far. No reputable shop is going to leave crappy work and a dirty engine. Whats that wire with the red crap stuck to it and never have I seen a runable engine without a glow plug in a hole like that. That head looks like the easy to remove drivers side. Its also got the low cylinders 2&4 on that side. That plug issue looks like it cylinder number6.
 
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04_6.0

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Sorry; yea the glow plugs are out in the picture. The bolt I am talking about I actually already put a blot in it. It's the bolt to the top of the lifting lug on the intake manifold.

And yes I was very happy to hear the agreement between me and the PO. Come to find out the "shop" that did the work was actually a guy that's works at a real shop worked on it after work hours. This was his first idi and his first diesel repair. So that is awesome.
 
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PackRat239

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Well if it was me I sure would be angry that someone fooled me about condition of engine but. If all that work has been done then you have plenty of good parts to swap over to a rebuilt short block. But have the heads checked over for cracks. 2 to 3 gallons wont leak into from a bad head gasket because its too high up in the engine. But a bad oil cooler o ring can because its at the lowest area of the coolant in the block.

A bad oil cooler wont put oil in the cylinders.
 

04_6.0

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So I was able to do a little more today. These pictures were taken after I had already done some cleaning. I do not know if they even did the headgaskets or not anymore. Or anything that was written down on the receipts that I received. I am going to call the shop that "performed" the repairs and find out what happened. What do y'all think??

Some of the rockers and pushrods have some heavy rust and pitting on them. So much that I'm worried about the rest of the engine.

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wildman7798

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It is odd, the VC gaskets and intake gaskets don't look very old but the head to block area is so coated it doesn't look like they have been off, at least not in a long while. That is serious corrosion on the top end, looks like it would have had to have water up there for 2 or 3 years would be my guess to get that much pitting. What a shoddy job on the return lines, I am having a tough time finding any positive points from the photos. I'd see what the "shop" says and then weigh it with what the PO has said. A decent long block might be a better option at this point. But more info needed for sure.
 

icanfixall

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Thats a mess. That amount of rust wont happen in a month or two. Thats long duration stuff right there. And id the oil has water in it by the rust on the rockers I'n saying your bearings are shot too. Whatever the problem is your in need of a rebuild or a short block. Please don't give up till you find the reason for this mess. We are here to help no matter what you find.
 

04_6.0

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Yes I agree that this truck has setup awhile. I pulled the drivers head yesterday. Cylinder walls look great. Heads and coolant passages were very gunked up. I have found numerous bolts and such that were not torqued to spec or finger tight. I could have broken half of the head bolts loose with a 3/8 drive ratchet. Not quality or even shade tree type work at all. I'm so discouraged I'll be pulling the other head to look at it as well. What are these two sensors in the picture only the top one was plugged in.

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Any other suggestions or comments?
 

junk

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water temp sensors. one is for the gage. one is for the over temp warning light.
 

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