New lift pump. No start after

[N.E fjord-by-fjord 2fiddy]

Been a while since I was on... But I guess that's good, because I haven't had issues. Until now...

I decided after my engine started acting up and belching a lot that I would try the cheaper fix and do the lift pump before throwing down a bunch of $ for a new IP from Agnem... which I was planning on doing anyway (170k, stock IP). So, being the typical overconfident idiot that i am, i decided to go and pick up a Napa mech pump... and install it during the leading end of a blizzard... Well, the swap went fine (i thought...) and I also think that the old stock Carter pump was pretty shot... After i unbolted it, i also detached the lift>filter hard line, and listened as all of my fuel gurgled back through the pump into my tank. I got the new pump in, following procedure that I had research several different places on the web... I cracked my lines, and cranked. It fired and ran for about 1 second. That's the last it ran. I have NO idea why, but no amount of cranking will make her fire. I have cracked the lines a few times... I have clear tube from head to #1, and IP to #2 injector caps... After cracking, the line from IP to #2 is full... but the other had air in it. Also, I noticed a peculiar thing... It looked like bubbles were forming near the nipple, almost as if there was a vacuum in the tube, and air was being sucked into it around the cap's nipple...

Either way, I used to get her to fire when the lines were cracked. It would be sketchy, but it would tell me I could crank em down again. Now, nothing. Cracked or not, I am getting NO firing in my cylinders. This seems super strange to me, given the fact that all I did was the lift pump.

Any help will be greatly appreciated. This is definitely NOT going to be fun...

 

[middaymidnight]

Is it a manual? If so bump start it. Every time I've changed a lift pump it's always a struggle to get prime

 

[cpdenton]

Unscrew the filter and see if it's full of fuel...

 

[gandalf]

New lift pump. That rings a bell. Were you careful in the way you installed it? It can be done wrong, with the result being something you don't want to hear.

When you slap that new lift pump on, there is an arm which sticks into the engine and rides on a cam. It's apparently fairly easy to put that arm on the wrong side of the cam. The result, as I recall, is that not much happens. You might do harm to that new lift pump.

The bad news is that I don't remember whether that arm goes over or under the cam. It's one way or the other, and the wrong way is not good. Some one will come along and set me straight on the over vs under part.

Once you have the lift pump straightened out, then you can start working on the air intrusion problem.

 

[stealth13777]

It's under. Still hoping that's where mine ended up; should have


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[N.E fjord-by-fjord 2fiddy]

The lift pump arm placement was good. I was actually lucky in the regard that when I shut her down, the cam was in the perfect spot! That's was the thing... I knew I did everything right, to a tee...

I'll spare everyone the suspense. I got her going.

So... The one thing that I didn't do that I had seen on one website.... (as indicated by the gurgle remark in the original post...) I didn't block the fuel supply line to the pump. I know, I know... I should really replace the whole line. But it's 8 degrees here, and a blizzard warning until Mon @ 7AM... 24" expected on top of the 60" I already have. So... Yeah. I wanted to be done with this one QUICK. (working outside between the banks).

So, I let air get in all the way back to the tank. I forgot about this, and when I was bleeding... I would crank em back down every time I saw that tube fill off the IP... But that was just the fuel from the FILTER that was filling the lines. I still had a MASSIVE amount of air behind the filter and the lift.

I decided that if I was going back out there, it was only going to be one more time. So, I went out, cracked, bled... for a GOOD long time. (she's been hooked up to my Saab for juice at this point)... Then after a decent tube fill, one REALLY long crank. I was almost about to pound my head on the steering wheel during that last crank... But about 15 seconds in... "put... put....... put. PUT PUTPUTPUT... WAAAAH!!!!" She ROARED to life.

Now, I regret posting in haste... I feel like I've wasted people's time and I apologize. I will say though, my two cents about lift pump replacement after you've got the main concept down (arm and cam pos) would be this:

find a way without damaging the supply line to block it quick when you take it off the pump. it will save you a little time at the least... for me, it would have completely eliminated the "what did I do wrongs"...

OH!... and don't do the friggin' repair outside in a god damned BLIZZARD!

 

[gandalf]

That's good news. You didn't waste anyone's time posting when you thought you had a significant problem. If we don't have the time to read a post and answer it, we won't. That's the beauty of a forum like this. People will answer if/when they can, usually with the right answer. Not to worry.

I was going to ask about the snow, what you have, and what you expect. But you answered already--5 feet on the ground and 2 more expected. And on top of that, it's wicked cold at 8°F. Where are you in Maine? My guess would be inland some. It's supposed to be 23°F down near Stonington, but the coast is usually a bit warmer than inland.

 

[IDIoit]

electrical pump.
i just swaped IP, Injectors yadda yadda yadda.
had alot of issues.
turns out the bran new lift pump i got from monument auto only put out 2-3 PSI.
dragging my performance down...
try an electrical pump.
whenever i do anything to the fuel system,. i change filters.
cheap insurance.
check all your rubber lines too

 

[ironworker40]

Next time when doing lift pump or fuel filter hold the shrader valve on the filter in while cranking. When you get solid fuel there it should start. If not then start cracking lines at the injectors. You will get better results.
Don't feel bad I had to change the fan belt on a 2006 malabou today at 20 degrees, on my girlfriends car. Women, they make us men do things we would never do, they don't even make drugs more powerful than that.

 

[N.E fjord-by-fjord 2fiddy]

Not that far inland... Just north of Portland in Gray.

Problem with the shraeder/crank scenario... No remote starter, and no second set of hands. I do that when my girlfriend is helping and can crank... But she wasn't there. I know you can bridge two terminals on the starter solenoid, but I don't know which two, so I've never tried it... Don't want to do something really bad...

...and as far as the electric pump, i get it. They're better.... But my ultimate goal is to make this thing 100% EMP resistant for a BOV... All I need to do is swap out the E4OD with a ZF5... and I have a 100% non circuit dependent vehicle... But even then, there's the GP's and GPC... Always park aimed down a big hill, I guess!!!

 

[madpogue]

Just put the glow plugs on a manual switch. The relay is electromechanical, and the plugs themselves are just big element resistors, so should not be affected by EMP. Worst case, you put a jumper cable across the relay.

(An '06 MalIbU has a fan belt?.....)

 

[ironworker40]

(An '06 MalIbU has a fan belt?.....)[/QUOTE]

Yup, a small 4 rib serpintine that runs the a/c only. If had known that it only is for a/c I would have waited, but oil change ******* at aamco said it was a big emergency and they wanted $125 bucks . Thieves.

 

[laserjock]

Swap the electric pump in and keep a good mechanical pump and a short piece of hose under the seat. When the nuclear blast happens you can be ready to go in 15 minutes. Until then enjoy the benefits of your electric pump. [emoji6]

 

[ironworker40]

...[/QUOTE] with the shraeder/crank scenario... No remote starter, and no second set of hands. I do that when my girlfriend is helping and can crank... But she wasn't there. I know you can bridge two terminals on the starter solenoid, but I don't know which two, so I've never tried it... Don't want to do something really bad...

It's the small terminal with the push on 90 degree plug, Pull that off and jump that with something metal to large terminal that has battery wire attached. If you use The
2 large terminal with starter wire and battery it will spark like hell and you will let go real quick. If you cross the small terminal with the starter terminal it won't do anything. Not really much to screw up. They also make a starter button with a wire, with 2 clips on it that you can use and works great. You can also make one.http://www.tooltopia.com/lisle-2075...scplp6819516&gclid=CNK82PXi5MMCFVRk7AodYzEAEQ

 

[madpogue]

(An '06 MalIbU has a fan belt?.....)

Yup, a small 4 rib serpintine that runs the a/c only. If had known that it only is for a/c I would have waited, but oil change ******* at aamco said it was a big emergency and they wanted $125 bucks . Thieves.

Then it's not a fan belt....

Swap the electric pump in and keep a good mechanical pump and a short piece of hose under the seat. When the nuclear blast happens you can be ready to go in 15 minutes. Until then enjoy the benefits of your electric pump. [emoji6]

After an EMP event, I wouldn't want to be spending 15 minutes under the hood.