An OEM IP can already,easily,over fuel our engines with one of the common turbo kits.IMO you can't really max the fuel on even just an N/A spec IP without an intercooler and burn it all efficiently (or base decompression w/ larger turbo).
Sorry, I disagree. The common turbo kits are good for 250 at the wheels; stock IPs can only put out about 200-ish.
Provided your timing is correct(and don't have any pre-turbo exhaust leaks), the common turbo kits can easily clean up a stock IP, at least above about 2400RPM when you have the boost. Below that, no... because the stock turbos won't give you the boost, period.
Remember, though, that HP and torque peak on a turbo kit is somewhere around 2800 RPM, where the boost and fueling curves "cross over".
If you want a hotter IP than a turbo spec,you kinda need an intercooler,or else your going to have your eyes on the pryo,more than you will the road.
With a RD2-110, stock injectors and 250 at the wheels on a Ford-spec 093, I'm more limited by coolant temps than EGTs, for some reason. It all depends on timing, though - retard the timing a couple degrees, and you'll have higher EGTs and lower power.
White smoke = Coolant or fuel.Typically,an injector issue with white smoke at idle.
Yes and no. Could be coolant(would need to be a lot of coolant); most likely cause is retarded timing(unburned fuel).
I have never seen a set of injectors that is "perfectly" balanced; they all have some slight variation in them. When you retard the timing to the point that the engine barely runs, a couple of cylinders will be slightly more retarded than the others, and those will smoke white. You'll also have missing.
In addition, due to the "light load advance" cam, you can have an engine that idles OK, but as soon as you rev it up, it'll miss and smoke(because it goes from "marginally retarded" to "very retarded".
Blue smoke = Oil.Typically,blue at idle means valve seals,under load means rings.
Again, nope. It's partially burned fuel, usually. A properly timed IDI can easily /burn/ a quart of oil every 50 miles with no smoke at all.
I've also run an IDI with not only no valve seals, but a 1/8" gap instead of a valve guide*... It ticked quite a bit, but did not smoke.
You'll find that in almost all cases, advancing the timing will solve this problem, and give better power and fuel economy.
Simple as that.
Also, I'd note that just about every IDI I've come across has needed timing adjustments for optimum performance. It's the #1 thing I've seen ignored on all the (cheap) trucks I've bought.
(*The #1 exhaust valve was beating a hole into the piston due to improper valve recession, and just destroyed the guide
Here's a YT video of it running(and working) with that destroyed guide)
Black smoke = Over fueling.If you get a touch before the turbo spools,a smoke puff limiter helps drastically.If you have black under max load,your screw is up higher than your engine can ever make use of.
Yeah. I agree on this. That being said, the stock kits will never build good boost until you have some RPMs. If you put the engine under full load at 1800RPM, yes, you are going to be smoking black, and you should back off.
You adjust the fueling based on if you are smoking at max load /at 2700 RPM/, or where you actually have maximum boost. Otherwise, you just limit your top end.
Because you need more at the top end than you do down low, yeah, you need to be more careful with the throttle.
And yes, a Hypermax Smoke Puff Limiter is a /really/ good idea. When adjusted properly, it acts as a boost-referenced-fuel-limiter, effectively keeping the low-end fueling down to what the engine can burn, while allowing you to run as much fuel as possible up high where the boost can clean it up.
