93cc7.3
needs turbo power
my truck leaks like a sive now and starting is as about as hard as just pushing the truck myself ive searched here but i need a good place to buy a kit and good directions any help would be greatly appreciated thanks
need help return line kit
- Thread starter 93cc7.3
- Start date
Chevyboy_0
Mr.SunnyDisposition
Talk To Russ(Typ4) and he should be able to get you hooked up
dyoung14
Is getting worn out
Pm russ handle is TYP4 he sells a really good kit and not a bad price
Goofyexponent
Mentally Unstable..
Agreed. He sells a DAMN good kit and he's a great guy to deal with!
dyoung14
Is getting worn out
93cc7.3
needs turbo power
awesome thanks guys
Chevyboy_0
Mr.SunnyDisposition
Goofyexponent
Mentally Unstable..
i think its a hardware failure not operator related
How many RPM was the keyboard turning Dyoung? J/K man lol....sorry I had to!
Not to hijack, but how is the old IDI holding up?
Chevyboy_0
Mr.SunnyDisposition
pybyr
Full Access Member
How much of the problems on these returns happen from age vs mileage? My truck has only 13,600 (yep, comma in the right place) but it's 20 years old.
Can anyone point me to a thread/ link/ directions that walks an IDI newbie through what's involved in this?
Can anyone point me to a thread/ link/ directions that walks an IDI newbie through what's involved in this?
Goofyexponent
Mentally Unstable..
I think it's an age factor more than a milage factor.
The "O" rings under the plastic injector caps crack and then the fuel can be pushed out, and when the engine is not running, air can be sucked in. THis creates a fuel leak AND an air intrusion situation at the same time. The engine will become harder and harder to start with the air in the system.
The "O" rings under the plastic injector caps crack and then the fuel can be pushed out, and when the engine is not running, air can be sucked in. THis creates a fuel leak AND an air intrusion situation at the same time. The engine will become harder and harder to start with the air in the system.
Pull the metal injector lines loose from the injectors. Try to move them as a group so less bending occurs, but you will have to slightly bend them a little bit to get them out of the way.
Wiggle and pull on the white looking plastic fittings on the injectors. Slowly work all of them off together. There is a longer rubber line here and there that you will have to loosen to take the 4 injector fittings off in a group.
Take a pick and dig the two o-rings off each injector. Install the new o-rings on the injectors, top on first, lower one second. Make sure to lube these o-rings with a little oil.
Take your old 4 cap assembly and cut your new hoses to match the length of the short hoses on the assembly.
Take your old caps without the old hoses, or your new caps from your kit, and wiggle them on top of each injector. Make sure to wiggle them back and forth on the lubed o-rings to seat them.
Then install the short hoses and clamps between the injectors, and then install the metal hard lines on the injectors. Installing the metal lines can be the hardest part-make sure you do not cross-thread the nuts.
Replace the remaining longer small hoses on the engine with the new hose you have left.
pybyr
Full Access Member
Thanks! My truck is definitely not eager to start in cold temps after it's sat for a day-- hard to know if this is a part of that, but I should tackle it at some point.
Any ball-park costs on the kit price? Any advantage to trying to put in a higher grade o-ring (silicone?) while doing it so as to do it once for all time?
Any ball-park costs on the kit price? Any advantage to trying to put in a higher grade o-ring (silicone?) while doing it so as to do it once for all time?
Silicone is usually not recommended around fuel. Buna-N is what the original o-rings were made of, and will last as long as the old ones did. Some people run viton o-rings, which are mandatory if you run some sort of bio-diesel or other fuels.
I did not buy a kit. I went to tractor supply and bought the o-rings in their hydraulic fitting section. They are a #111 and if I remember correctly, are 5/8 OD x 7/16 id. I went to Napa and they had the 1/4 fuel line. Don't buy vacuum hose, make sure the hose says "fuel".
There are several places that sell the kits that have new plastic fittings. I just re-used my old fittings, they were in fine shape. I believe I have seen the kits on ebay, and some of the diesel places that sell stuff for idi's sell the kits, like Midwest Fuel Injection.
I did not buy a kit. I went to tractor supply and bought the o-rings in their hydraulic fitting section. They are a #111 and if I remember correctly, are 5/8 OD x 7/16 id. I went to Napa and they had the 1/4 fuel line. Don't buy vacuum hose, make sure the hose says "fuel".
There are several places that sell the kits that have new plastic fittings. I just re-used my old fittings, they were in fine shape. I believe I have seen the kits on ebay, and some of the diesel places that sell stuff for idi's sell the kits, like Midwest Fuel Injection.
dyoung14
Is getting worn out
still runs good still has the same power just has this little miss and a little trail of blue smoke so i guess i have a ******* injector, and i have decided im going to stop running such high timing and never unhook the timing arm on the side of the pump that retards the timing cause i beilieve thats what caused my problems
