My '93 F-250 IDI Overhaul Thread

[TurboDan]

Block is at the shop, getting all 8 sleeved just to be fully safe. The shop has done IDIs and have been around for a long long time. I plan to just do a full rebuild at this point.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Even though you hate to pay for it, sometimes it's for the best.

 

[Big Bart]

You will be glad you did!

 

[Rusgo]

What's the damage($$) for something like that? Still have to use the coolant additive after getting them sleeved?

 

[saburai]

Looks like you've got it figured. Just be careful with the head and make sure that the measurements are verified.

 

[TurboDan]

I just got the heads back, they didn’t mill any off them, they were within spec. Ended up with 8 new valve guides though, plus seals and springs.

 

[TurboDan]

What's the damage($$) for something like that? Still have to use the coolant additive after getting them sleeved?

The quote was $1900 and change for all of the machine work on the short block, that might have included the sleeves themselves I’ll have to check. It does not include other parts like pistons, rings bearings etc.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Having the cylinders sleeved isn't cheap.

 

[chillman88]

Still have to use the coolant additive after getting them sleeved?

I believe the answer is yes. Sleeving doesn't remove the source of the problem, just removes the damage it caused. Sleeving is a good idea because you never know how close they are to breaking through, unless maybe sonic testing would show it.

 

[TurboDan]

Having the cylinders sleeved isn't cheap.

Here the sleeve cost is $110 per hole for the labor.

 

[Rusgo]

Here the sleeve cost is $110 per hole for the labor.

Better than I thought it'd be! Seems like such a crazy process

 

[Rusgo]

I believe the answer is yes. Sleeving doesn't remove the source of the problem, just removes the damage it caused. Sleeving is a good idea because you never know how close they are to breaking through, unless maybe sonic testing would show it.

Thought maybe the sleeves could be thicker than the original walls

 

[chillman88]

Thought maybe the sleeves could be thicker than the original walls

That's technically irrelevant. The thinner walls of the 7.3 are more likely to break through, but even the thicker walls of the 6.9 get eaten by cavitation. They just last much longer before breaking through completely.

Some people get lucky running their 7.3 without the additives, it's just not a chance I care to gamble on!

 

[Rusgo]

That's technically irrelevant. The thinner walls of the 7.3 are more likely to break through, but even the thicker walls of the 6.9 get eaten by cavitation. They just last much longer before breaking through completely.

Some people get lucky running their 7.3 without the additives, it's just not a chance I care to gamble on!

Heard it from others that the thinner walls of the of the 7.3 allowed micro flexing that created cavitation, and cavitation wasn't an issue in these engines until the displacement was bumped up.

Along with that, was told coolant additive was developed specifically for the 7.3 motor and the 6.9 never had cavitation issues (could be completely wrong heheh)

 

[chillman88]

Heard it from others that the thinner walls of the of the 7.3 allowed micro flexing that created cavitation, and cavitation wasn't an issue I'm these engines until the displacement was bumped up.

Along with that, was told coolant additive was developed specifically for the 7.3 motor and the 6.9 never had cavitation issues (could be completely wrong heheh)

I heard (hearsay mind you, no firsthand experience) that it has happened to 6.9s it was just a rare occurrence and the thinner walls of the 7.3 made it much more prevalent and it then became an issue.

As I said, just what I've heard so your results may vary!