tommyv2222
Registered User
What can cause my 6.0 build so much pressure when the heads or gaskets aren't cracked or leaking?
My 6.0 psd is building over 16 psi since my egr delete. Was not before. Please help
- Thread starter tommyv2222
- Start date
Hello and welcome to OB. Can I make a couple of starter questions/suggestions:
Put your truck details in your signature, with miles, options, bolt-ons, upgrades, etc. This information, in the immortal words of Jerry McGuire "helps oilburner folks help you".
Secondly, since you are working on a 6 liter, do you have a tuner or any kind of ability to monitor the ECM? Personally, I think you need to look at the oil versus coolant temp number before you do anything. It tells what I think is an imperative story of the current thermal conditions of your truck.
Just my .02 worth, but if you can get a steady state temperature delta I think it will help your diagnosis.
Good luck and again welcome to the forum.
Put your truck details in your signature, with miles, options, bolt-ons, upgrades, etc. This information, in the immortal words of Jerry McGuire "helps oilburner folks help you".
Secondly, since you are working on a 6 liter, do you have a tuner or any kind of ability to monitor the ECM? Personally, I think you need to look at the oil versus coolant temp number before you do anything. It tells what I think is an imperative story of the current thermal conditions of your truck.
Just my .02 worth, but if you can get a steady state temperature delta I think it will help your diagnosis.
Good luck and again welcome to the forum.
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Agreed with above, please list the specs of your truck.
A couple of questions:
What is building over 16 PSI, I assume you mean it is blowing out the degas bottle, or will it now not build boost?
Did you do the work, or was it a shop? What kit did you use, or is it something that you pieced together? I can't picture anything in just doing the EGR Delete to cause an increase in pressure in the cooling system. A delete should have just consisted of the block off plate for the intake, the replacement hose to connect old coolant inlet and outlet together and an up pipe replacement to eliminate the scoop. Not sure why it would increase cooling system pressure. Does it take time to build pressure or is it immediate? Was the delete due to a leak, or was it preventive? Are you loosing coolant besides what it blowing out? Just trying to get a baseline. When I did my delete the only change was the engine ran cooled due to removal of all the exhaust heat from the coolant.......
A couple of questions:
What is building over 16 PSI, I assume you mean it is blowing out the degas bottle, or will it now not build boost?
Did you do the work, or was it a shop? What kit did you use, or is it something that you pieced together? I can't picture anything in just doing the EGR Delete to cause an increase in pressure in the cooling system. A delete should have just consisted of the block off plate for the intake, the replacement hose to connect old coolant inlet and outlet together and an up pipe replacement to eliminate the scoop. Not sure why it would increase cooling system pressure. Does it take time to build pressure or is it immediate? Was the delete due to a leak, or was it preventive? Are you loosing coolant besides what it blowing out? Just trying to get a baseline. When I did my delete the only change was the engine ran cooled due to removal of all the exhaust heat from the coolant.......
tommyv2222
Registered User
I have a gauge hooked up to my degas bottle and every since I've put a sinister diesel delete kit on the motor it has build up to 16 psi in the bottle but there is no boiling over or over heating of the coolant. It does take a little time to build up to that. I put the kit on myself and have done a few in the past for friends. The reason I put the delete kit on was because my up pipe was leaking and I had to replace it so I did a little preventive maintenance. I havent lost any coolant at all. I've had my turbo off a few times now trying to get the turbo drain tube to seal and when I put it all back together it doesn't build over 5 psi for the first few days but eventually it gets back to building up to around 16 psi.
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FordGuy100
Registered User
If EGR cooler is deleted, it sounds like head gaskets to me.
Personally, I would drive for a mile or two (not up to temp). Then hammer on the go pedal. This is usually the exact opposite of what I would recommend because being ******* a cold diesel is not good for it. But, with cold coolant you should not have any real coolant pressure (that happens when the coolant gets hot and expands, creating the pressure since its a closed system). If you get on it and coolant pressure shoots up, you have bad heads/head gaskets.
Personally, I would drive for a mile or two (not up to temp). Then hammer on the go pedal. This is usually the exact opposite of what I would recommend because being ******* a cold diesel is not good for it. But, with cold coolant you should not have any real coolant pressure (that happens when the coolant gets hot and expands, creating the pressure since its a closed system). If you get on it and coolant pressure shoots up, you have bad heads/head gaskets.
tommyv2222
Registered User
I've tried that also it takes about 20 miles to reach 12 to 14 psi if it reachs that at all sometimes it don't. Thank you though I appreciate it.
tommyv2222
Registered User
I checked my oil temp compared to my coolant temp last night and there was a 30 degree difference. does that mean my oil cooler is clogged and if so can barrs leak clog that .
Your cooler is plugged, if you continue to drive it bad things will happen. Do some reading on plugged coolers on six liters but there's a big chemical flush and a pretty invasive cooler replacement involved.
I'm sure others will chime in but I would try to figure out if the bars leak was put in to cover up a head gasket leak.
Good luck, hopefully you caught it early enough.
I'm sure others will chime in but I would try to figure out if the bars leak was put in to cover up a head gasket leak.
Good luck, hopefully you caught it early enough.
tommyv2222
Registered User
I actually have the cooler out right now and my filter screen under my cooler is clogged so I cleaned that but I replaced the oil cooler with the delete and my buddy poured the bars leak in when we was adding the new oil and he thought I had it there because he had heard to add that after a big job like that to help seal everything back up, can I clean the cooler since it doesn't have no more than 500 miles on it?
m885
Registered User
Getting ready to replace my cooler as well. I have been told that there is no good way to clean the cooler. The passages are too small and delicate. Wish it wasn't so, but it sounds like another cooler is called for.
tommyv2222
Registered User
well thank you so much any suggestions on what the better cooler is ? and do you know any tricks on how to get the upper seal on the turbo drain tube to seat good and seal.
m885
Registered User
OEM or BPD. Bullet Proof Diesel is more money. Haven't been hearing much good about sinister.
FordGuy100
Registered User
I would not use bars leak, no way. That will clog an oil cooler up in no time. Your oil cooler is definately clogged when its anything over 15* difference. If you have an EGR cooler, it will fail (coolant flows through oil cooler and then into the EGR cooler. Only a trickle will make it through with your oil cooler that clogged. It will flash steam in the EGR cooler and rupture it).
Unfortunately, this oil cooler you will put in will clog up. If you do a flush after replacing an oil cooler, you might get a few thousand miles out of it before seeing a high delta again. This is from all the crap being broken up and floating through the system, clogging the oil cooler again.
Really, your best bet is to get a BPD oil cooler kit. If you cant affoard that, throw a new oil cooler in it. Put in fresh coolant/distilled water. Perhaps you will get lucky and not clog it up. But more than likely you will. So my suggestion is to do a very thorough flush after your new oil cooler is clogged. You can then drive around until your delta gets high again. Then put in a new oil cooler (number 2 at this point).
I also suggest getting a coolant filter as soon as possible.
Your in kind of a crappy situation right now bud, sorry. Unless you go with a BPD cooler, your more than likely screwed out of a new oil cooler (needing 2 from this point).
Unfortunately, this oil cooler you will put in will clog up. If you do a flush after replacing an oil cooler, you might get a few thousand miles out of it before seeing a high delta again. This is from all the crap being broken up and floating through the system, clogging the oil cooler again.
Really, your best bet is to get a BPD oil cooler kit. If you cant affoard that, throw a new oil cooler in it. Put in fresh coolant/distilled water. Perhaps you will get lucky and not clog it up. But more than likely you will. So my suggestion is to do a very thorough flush after your new oil cooler is clogged. You can then drive around until your delta gets high again. Then put in a new oil cooler (number 2 at this point).
I also suggest getting a coolant filter as soon as possible.
Your in kind of a crappy situation right now bud, sorry. Unless you go with a BPD cooler, your more than likely screwed out of a new oil cooler (needing 2 from this point).
CDX825
filtration nut
I would flush the living hell out of it before putting a new oil cooler in. Change the oil a couple times with cheap oil. Flush the cooling system with motorcraft VC-9 or fleetguard restore and restore plus. Leave the old oil cooler on until you get it flushed out good.No more stop leak either.
Your still taking a chance with the new oil cooler but you will be better off. Refill with ELC coolant to. Add a coolant filter if you haven't already.
Your still taking a chance with the new oil cooler but you will be better off. Refill with ELC coolant to. Add a coolant filter if you haven't already.
C_Luft
Full Access Member
I have no experience with 6.0 liter but in my dealings with my 7.3 idi, I would put the garden hose and try to flush out anything that could compromise the oil cooler or egr cooler in those engines and then do a final flush with like 15 gallons of steam distilled water, I'm not sure if that's possible with every thing apart on the 6.0 liter. Bars leak is for a car or truck you don't intend on putting any money into and you just need it to stop leaking temporarily.
For more info you should watch on YouTube powerstrokehelp, he has tons of videos on the 6.0 liters, including one where an owner put bars leak into his 6.0/6.4.
For more info you should watch on YouTube powerstrokehelp, he has tons of videos on the 6.0 liters, including one where an owner put bars leak into his 6.0/6.4.
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