Moving factory fuel filter head on 7.3 IDI

[joel1847]

Got it thanks.

Joel

 

[fsmyth]

Ha. found it. buried in bookmarks:
http://www.vulcanperformance.com/VP-MAX-Dual-Remote-Filter-Kit-p/drff.htm
3 micron secondary, 20 micron primary w/WF.

 

[jwsfarrier]

Thanks for the link fsmyth. I was planning on doing something like this on my build with the Carrier e-pump. Am I correct in assuming you would have the pump after the filters? I'm glad this thread was brought up by the OP as I am a little confused with what is the best or right configuration. I defintely feel our fuel systems need better than stock filtration to protect the IP and injectors. Thanks!

 

[fsmyth]

Nope. You will starve the lift pump. Filters after.

Do put one of the 150 micron in-line filters on each tank, or just before
the pump. Keeps the trash from ruining your pump. I like the plastic ones you
can see through.

Some older trucks (Mack in particular) DID suck through the filters to the
engine-mounted lift pump. The Cummins M12 just sucked it straight into
the injection pump from the filters, but it had a pretty healthy suction anyway.
Bear in mind, most (if not all) of these had 7/16" or 1/2" lines from the tanks.
And a LOT of fuel to fill the lines.

 

[jhenegh]

My similar thread with a few more pics

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?75231-How-to-relocate-fuel-filter&highlight=

 

[jwsfarrier]

would you or could you still run the factory fuel filter head and filter if you if you were to use that duel fuel filter head. Also, if you ditched the the factory filter head how do you bleed off air in the lines without the schrader valve there. Sorry to hijack the thread

 

[fsmyth]

Absolutely. As I pointed out in an earlier message, I would recommend keeping it
in the mix. Expensive filter should last forever if there is a 2 micron feeding it.
And all your lines still fit. And the return valve is still there. Just fix the heater leak
And you shouldn't have to bleed air out if you fixed all the leaks. /grin/

 

[79jasper]

You could still keep the schrader valve. Most aftermarket filter heads come with 2 ins/2 outs. Could throw it in there.
With a electric pump, you shouldn't have to worry as much either.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

 

[fsmyth]

Yea, but all those extra ports on the filter head are really handy....
Tied in my pressure switch, pressure gauge, and a valve to a
hose with a quick-connect for catching a bit of diesel for off-
road maintenance of other stuff like filling replacement filters.

 

[jwsfarrier]

Thanks you guys! as always great ideas. I'm just trying to figure out the best set up since I will have to relocate the factory filter head anyway for the IC piping. Sounds like I could delete it all together with aftermarket duel filter set up. Less issues with possible air intrusion. The set up would be: Facet e-pump - duel filters(20 micron primary w/water sep., 3 micron secondary) - IP. Any reason that would work? I'm running the R&D 110 pump.

 

[Koch13351]

Aren't you generally supposed to pull through the water separator, not push? Or are certain ones just designed for that?

 

[79jasper]

Yes, best to pull. Not sure I know/see the difference though.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

 

[Koch13351]

I'd imagine it helps with the separation. Negative pressure vs. positive pressure would probably help the water drop from suspension.

 

[joel1847]

Factory water separator gets fuel pushed through so i wonder.

Joel
norcal

 

[joel1847]

The Goldenrod filter/water separator is also a pusher. It's after the fuel pump as the factory paper shows it being right next to the nozzle which would be after the fuel pump.

Joel