mankypro
Learning Slowly...
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Look at this DB2 Diagram and tell me where the "screw" is!
- Thread starter mankypro
- Start date
mankypro
Learning Slowly...
Found instructions:
Warning: Turning the fuel up on your engine will cause more internal heat that could melt your aluminum pistons. It is important that you be conservative with this adjustment and carefully watch your EGT (exhaust Gas temperature). High EGT can cause piston damage. Buy and install an EGT gauge to monitor temps. I do not have a gauge yet, but I have set my pump conservatively and do not see a lot of black smoke which is unburned fuel. High EGT and black smoke go together. I do not tow or hold the engine at full throttle for more than a minute or two in traffic. If you tow frequently or use maximum power for extended periods high EGT temps will damage / melt pistons. Short EGT spikes are not a problem because they don't keep the pistons hot for long enough time to hurt them. If you ignore my advice and turn the screw up all the way you run the risk of ruining your engine.
I turned up the fuel by taking off the small cover on the drivers side of the injection pump. It is very small, and has 2 screws holding it on. You will need to remove the throttle cable and bracket to see the cover. Once this cover is off, a little bit of fuel will spill into the engine valley. What you are looking for is a small 5/16th Allen screw under this cover that appears through a small access hole. The screw rotates as the engine rotates so you will need to have a large ratchet or breaker bar on the crank pulley nut to rotate the engine while you look for the screw to appear in the access hole. You will need a small flashlight and mirror to see this screw. At first it seemed like there wasn't enough room, I swore I would have to remove the intake manifold. It helps to have a buddy turn the crank while you watch for the screw, but I did it my myself, it just took a lot longer. It does help to remove the throttle cable bracket and detach the throttle cable from the injection pump. You may also have to move the throttle linkage to get to the access cover and fuel screw.
Once the screw is in sight use a good quality 5/16th allen wrench to turn it. To increase fueling, turn the screw clockwise. It helps to turn it in small increments. I turned mine 1/6th of a turn ( imagine from 12 O'clock to 2 O'clock) This gave a good fuel rate to match the increased airflow from a K+N air filter and Kascar (www.real4wd.com) resonator exhaust pipe. I could have possibly gone to 1/4 of a turn clockwise, but I wanted to be conservative. It is important to increase airflow along with the extra fuel or you will just put out a lot of black smoke without any extra power. Once the screw has been turned put it all back together and enjoy.
Warning: Turning the fuel up on your engine will cause more internal heat that could melt your aluminum pistons. It is important that you be conservative with this adjustment and carefully watch your EGT (exhaust Gas temperature). High EGT can cause piston damage. Buy and install an EGT gauge to monitor temps. I do not have a gauge yet, but I have set my pump conservatively and do not see a lot of black smoke which is unburned fuel. High EGT and black smoke go together. I do not tow or hold the engine at full throttle for more than a minute or two in traffic. If you tow frequently or use maximum power for extended periods high EGT temps will damage / melt pistons. Short EGT spikes are not a problem because they don't keep the pistons hot for long enough time to hurt them. If you ignore my advice and turn the screw up all the way you run the risk of ruining your engine.
I turned up the fuel by taking off the small cover on the drivers side of the injection pump. It is very small, and has 2 screws holding it on. You will need to remove the throttle cable and bracket to see the cover. Once this cover is off, a little bit of fuel will spill into the engine valley. What you are looking for is a small 5/16th Allen screw under this cover that appears through a small access hole. The screw rotates as the engine rotates so you will need to have a large ratchet or breaker bar on the crank pulley nut to rotate the engine while you look for the screw to appear in the access hole. You will need a small flashlight and mirror to see this screw. At first it seemed like there wasn't enough room, I swore I would have to remove the intake manifold. It helps to have a buddy turn the crank while you watch for the screw, but I did it my myself, it just took a lot longer. It does help to remove the throttle cable bracket and detach the throttle cable from the injection pump. You may also have to move the throttle linkage to get to the access cover and fuel screw.
Once the screw is in sight use a good quality 5/16th allen wrench to turn it. To increase fueling, turn the screw clockwise. It helps to turn it in small increments. I turned mine 1/6th of a turn ( imagine from 12 O'clock to 2 O'clock) This gave a good fuel rate to match the increased airflow from a K+N air filter and Kascar (www.real4wd.com) resonator exhaust pipe. I could have possibly gone to 1/4 of a turn clockwise, but I wanted to be conservative. It is important to increase airflow along with the extra fuel or you will just put out a lot of black smoke without any extra power. Once the screw has been turned put it all back together and enjoy.
david85
Full Access Member
I don't know why they haven't labeled it, but its right in the middle of the diagram. Its the allen screw on the shaft.
Your instructions are good, but what will help is to line the timing mark in the vibration dampener to the 1:00 O' clock position. If you can't see the screw in the access hole, you need to turn it over one more full turn. Also, its not 5/16" size, its 3/16".
Your instructions are good, but what will help is to line the timing mark in the vibration dampener to the 1:00 O' clock position. If you can't see the screw in the access hole, you need to turn it over one more full turn. Also, its not 5/16" size, its 3/16".
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
Pull the front cover of the injection pump gear hosuing, tis the small flat piece that's held by two bolts (they take 1/2" socket, by the way). Look at the alignment dowel for the gear - when this is in 12:00 position the fuel screw is lined up with the opening on the side of the IP and is ready for adjustment. After the first time I never used a bar on the crank anymore, just tap the starter till the dowel gets up top.
here's Zigg's writeup with PICTURES
http://www.members.shaw.ca/k2pilot/Injection pump adjustment article.htm
http://www.members.shaw.ca/k2pilot/Injection pump adjustment article.htm
mankypro
Learning Slowly...
awesome thanks
here's Zigg's writeup with PICTURES
http://www.members.shaw.ca/k2pilot/Injection pump adjustment article.htm
RKOCH
Fellow Oil Burner
Actualy the screw is 5/32 or 4mm take your pick.
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
Correct on the 5/32, haven't tried the 4mm, but 5/32 works perfect.
Diezel_Cowboy
It's not like a real ***!
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
Yeps, that's the one, but it turns with the pump shaft, so in this picture tis in a position in which you can't reach it, as the access port and its cover are actually on the other side of the pump.
mankypro
Learning Slowly...
thanks everyone
One thing that's interesting is that I ran the truck last night when it was 20 degrees cooler than days and unless I really stomped on it there was negligible smoke.
One thing that's interesting is that I ran the truck last night when it was 20 degrees cooler than days and unless I really stomped on it there was negligible smoke.
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
Makes sense - cooler ambient temperature means more mass of oxygen per volume of air sucked in, so more complete burn of the fuel available through the IP.
mankypro
Learning Slowly...
As far as the soup bowl and freeing up the intake, do I just take a grinder to the bowl and cut the futher mucker off?
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
That's one way of doing it, make sure you clamp the lid in a vice before you go medievil on it. With mine I first drilled the 6 spot-welds that hold the bowl to the lid, but I got carried away and actually drilled through the lid as well - big no-no, as when it rains hard outside water can end up on top of the air cleaner lid and with the holes the leak down the intake and into the cylinders. I now use a lid off an '86 F250 (just the lid, my filter box is still the stock 7.3 with the big opening to the intake plenum), it don't have the bowl welded on it so nothing to cut or drill out, and it fits perfectly.
