IPR Seal kit or now IPR
- Thread starter schoelta
- Start date
79jasper
Chickenhawk
If you need a new one, you would know it.
But should be able to clean and reseal it.
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But should be able to clean and reseal it.
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79jasper
Chickenhawk
If it's so bad that you need to replace it, you would have stalling or no start.
But if it's some random surging, could just clean it.
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But if it's some random surging, could just clean it.
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Well I am having a little trouble staring it when the engine is warm after it sits for a while. Also if I accelerate at 1/2 throttle or more, then engine does surge a bit. If I accelerate less than that, I'm fine. No surging. The truck does have just over 337K on it. I've owened it since Oct, so I don't know if the IPR has ever been resealed.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
The tin nut on the back is probably loose.
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Just go here and hunt around, lots of info on your question. If you have oil leaking out the ICP wires, it needs to be replaced.
Here is any seals you would need. IPR's are expensive. There is no cleaning to them.
http://www.dieselorings.com/1999-2003-ford-7-3l/high-pressure-oil-pump.html
Here is any seals you would need. IPR's are expensive. There is no cleaning to them.
http://www.dieselorings.com/1999-2003-ford-7-3l/high-pressure-oil-pump.html
tbirdfiend281
Full Access Member
IPR's have the ability to fail intermittently, so dont discount the potential of this truck maybe needing an IPR. The IPR is one of the last items that gets ruled out when running through a full ICP system diagnostic, once your down to the IPR as a potential failure point, its between that and the pump.
I am not trying to sound like a snobby mechanic, but finding a professional who has the ability to properly diagnosis your surging problem would be my best recommended course of action. The reason I say that is literally everything on this motor could be a cause of a surge above 1/2 throttle input, especially with the mileage, you honestly need to rule out every possible failure point from engine compression all the way up to and including the IPR, should your diagnostics take your down either of those paths. So do your research find a high quality navistar/ford shop, and have them try and give you a definite, if your serious about this truck, otherwise throwing parts at it will get super expensive quickly, and be very frustrating.
Isnt this the truck that just had a starting issue related to the injectors, it was throwing ficm codes?
I am not trying to sound like a snobby mechanic, but finding a professional who has the ability to properly diagnosis your surging problem would be my best recommended course of action. The reason I say that is literally everything on this motor could be a cause of a surge above 1/2 throttle input, especially with the mileage, you honestly need to rule out every possible failure point from engine compression all the way up to and including the IPR, should your diagnostics take your down either of those paths. So do your research find a high quality navistar/ford shop, and have them try and give you a definite, if your serious about this truck, otherwise throwing parts at it will get super expensive quickly, and be very frustrating.
Isnt this the truck that just had a starting issue related to the injectors, it was throwing ficm codes?
I did replace the ICM, and PCM because of a crank no start. That's what the previous ower had said. The truck started and was running great for a while. Now I will say a mistake I may have made was not draining the old fuel out of the rear tank since I didn't know how old it was. When I got it started, I filled both tanks to the top with fresh fuel, and ran them. I ran through the front tank 1st, which was mostly empty, and then the rear tank 2nd which had the mixture of old and new fuel. The truck ran fine. Filled both tanks again. This time ran the rear tank 1st since that is the one the swtich was on, and it started to start hard. Now it's a hit or miss. Sometimes it's fire right up, other time I have to crank it for sometime. What I do notice is when it's cold, below freezing, the truck will start better, than when it's above freezing. This makes me think I have an oil issue because it seems to start better when the oil is thicker. Even after I drive it for some time, turn it off, come back say 10 minutes later, it will more thank likely take sometime to start.
I know the truck is old, and has a ton of miles, 337K, but I want to take care of all the "easy" things first, like injector seals, and IPR seals, etc before I bite the bullet and send it to a shop. I am a mechanic, but mostly gassers, so I don't mind taking things apart to try and figure out my problem. I also don't mind asking for help, and that is why I love you guys as a resource. Thanks for all your help.
I know the truck is old, and has a ton of miles, 337K, but I want to take care of all the "easy" things first, like injector seals, and IPR seals, etc before I bite the bullet and send it to a shop. I am a mechanic, but mostly gassers, so I don't mind taking things apart to try and figure out my problem. I also don't mind asking for help, and that is why I love you guys as a resource. Thanks for all your help.
Hard warm starts/easy cold starts are usually symptoms of bad IPR or injector orings.but also symptoms of low compression.
Id replace ipr rings first.if problem still persists id pull the valve covers and look for oil bubbling up under the injector hold down clamps.
Id replace ipr rings first.if problem still persists id pull the valve covers and look for oil bubbling up under the injector hold down clamps.
That's why I don't think I have a compression issue because the truck ran great for two tanks of fuel, and then started having issues. Because the truck sat sushs a long time not running, I think all the seals just dried out.
tbirdfiend281
Full Access Member
Hot hard start no start are symptoms that could and usually are related to a high pressure system oil leak, injector O rings or an IPR could be the issue. Typically when the injector O rings blow out, the truck will use large amounts of oil, oil will end up in the fuel tank, but they could in theory fail and cause a hot starting issue.
What kind of diag stuff do you have, do you have a scan tool at all? First things first, lets go easy, I would check the icp sensor to see if its pushing oil. Also the next thing to do, is when the truck is having the hot restart (or warmish weather long cranking) issue, unplug the ICP sensor, and see if that fixes the issue. That is one thing to check that is super easy.
What kind of diag stuff do you have, do you have a scan tool at all? First things first, lets go easy, I would check the icp sensor to see if its pushing oil. Also the next thing to do, is when the truck is having the hot restart (or warmish weather long cranking) issue, unplug the ICP sensor, and see if that fixes the issue. That is one thing to check that is super easy.
If its the truck in your signature... pull the fuel filter and see what the fuel in the housing and filter look like.if its black and oily,you need injector orings.
This does not apply to 99-03 psd due to the dead headed fuel system.
This does not apply to 99-03 psd due to the dead headed fuel system.
Here's the update. I pulled the IPR, and the seals looked good, but I replaced them anyway. I think someone has been removed it previously and taken it apart because I saw teeth marks on the part that goes into the HPOP. Also, I found I was leaking fuel from the steel line that runs from the valve on the side of the filter housing down to the bottom. According to FORD, you have the get the whole housing to replace that part. Got the housing ordered. At least I won't have to worry about rebuilding it soon. 
Also got the driver's bank injectors removed. The front 3 injectors had the two upper oil rings CRACKED. The rear ones were just hard. I think I found my hard starting issue. Can't wait to see what the other side looks like.
I do have a couple of questions. What's the best way to clean the injector holes? Do I even need to, or can I just put the injector back in? Also, all the tips of the injectors were shiny. I didn't see any rust or other color on the tips. Can I assume that my injector sleeves are still in good shape?
Finally, I noticed that one of the o rings is pink on the old injectors, but my new ones don't come with a pink. Does color make a difference?
Thanks.
Also got the driver's bank injectors removed. The front 3 injectors had the two upper oil rings CRACKED. The rear ones were just hard. I think I found my hard starting issue.
Can't wait to see what the other side looks like.I do have a couple of questions. What's the best way to clean the injector holes? Do I even need to, or can I just put the injector back in? Also, all the tips of the injectors were shiny. I didn't see any rust or other color on the tips. Can I assume that my injector sleeves are still in good shape?
Finally, I noticed that one of the o rings is pink on the old injectors, but my new ones don't come with a pink. Does color make a difference?
Thanks.
