Can you buy the circuit board thing(don't know what to call it) that bolts to the back of the cluster? I replaced my cluster with one that has a tach, all of the guages work great but only 3 bulbs work, and I replaced them with all new bulbs and cleaned all connections and still only 3 bulbs work, high beam, bottom left speedo bulb and the left turn signal. One of the other speedo bulbs will go on and off when I wiggle it but that's it.
Instrument cluster
- Thread starter S-west
- Start date
79jasper
Chickenhawk
One could just use some wire.
I've thought about it myself.
Wouldn't be hard, but would take some time.
Sent from my USCC-C6721 using Tapatalk
I've thought about it myself.
Wouldn't be hard, but would take some time.
Sent from my USCC-C6721 using Tapatalk
wildman7798
Full Access Member
Almost seems like it has to be one of the ground traces. I would try pulling all the bulbs and connection points and going at it with a multi meter and do some continuity testing. The only way they can really fail is if a trace gets broken or burned and like others have said you can resolder or solder a small jumper wire in if you find the break. Last I saw LMC still has them new, around $80 IIRC.
mohavewolfpup
Diesel Wolf Puppy
Lucky. Here they are stripped fairly quick. Entire interiors down to the seat bolts are gutted
Haven't seen one in a pick apart at all lately. But I was able to get most of them working, I filed all connections again and put some pretty deep scratches in the copper on the board where the bulbs touch, I guess 20 years of oxidation is pretty thick, it's wierd though because my old one looks brand new, it looks like the cluster was left out in the rain for a few years, but it's probably because the truck it came from rusted to the ground. The guy drove it until the frame broke in half, the cab had no floor or firewall, I imagine quite a bit of water got up there.
There is tiny little copper tabs on the bulbs, try cleaning them and bend them down a little if you can wiggle them and make them light.
I know a guy who builds PCBs at home. I used to work with him when we were contracted by NASA at the turn of the 0's. I could check with him and see if I could provide him with the schematics and see if he could print a board. I would give it a try myself, but it's been nearly 13 years.
But myself? I am not a believer in PCBs in tractors (our trucks). So I run everything manually in very tidy looms, and then solder/seal/stake.
But myself? I am not a believer in PCBs in tractors (our trucks). So I run everything manually in very tidy looms, and then solder/seal/stake.
Yeah yeah yeah, I honestly did work for a NASA contractor doing research on growing plants in microgravity environments. My main mission was the prototyping through launch and refurb of the Biomass Production System, I bet it can still be found at NASA.gov
The best part was being NASA certified at soldering and solder repairs
The best part was being NASA certified at soldering and solder repairs
88 Ford
Full Access Member
I bet that NASA standards are similar to Navy standards as far as that stuff goes. There are some stringent solderability standards that we have to abide by when get certified. It is definitely fun to do component replacement and soldering.
I'm sure it's the same. The only downside is having your work examined by someone who has never done anything but push papers and stick bigger sticks up his ass as he come across them. I mean QA.
A lot of times those little tracers on the boards can cause so many problems. Whiskers do the most crap even with a very low voltage.
A lot of times those little tracers on the boards can cause so many problems. Whiskers do the most crap even with a very low voltage.
jaluhn83
Full Access Member
86 truck, right? Shouldn't be hard to find a good used board - pretty sure I have one but I have to figure out where.
I've tried repairing the traces on these and it's harder than it looks - the plastic tends to melt off and turn into a gooey mess, and then the actual copper traces are pretty fragile too, especially once the plastic is gone.
I've tried repairing the traces on these and it's harder than it looks - the plastic tends to melt off and turn into a gooey mess, and then the actual copper traces are pretty fragile too, especially once the plastic is gone.
