I found me one?
- Thread starter h2odrx
- Start date
rubberfish
Registered User
That's a decent looking truck for the year. 
I can't tell you what to offer on it.
Everybody shops differently.
I can't tell you what to offer on it.
Everybody shops differently.
h2odrx
Anti-O
That's a decent looking truck for the year.
I can't tell you what to offer on it.
Everybody shops differently.
Yes I know I'm Mr. Cheap!
Got a buddy going to look at it today I may go look tomorrow?
rubberfish
Registered User
There's a reason that I offer a little low.
We'll use the other truck as an example for this.
If I were to offer $4700 for a $5000 truck the guy would
say, ya OK, sure, that'll work. And you have a deal.
If I were to offer $4300, he'll say no and come back
with a counter offer and we may end up agreeing on
$4500-$4650. That would save me some money and
I'll never leave there wondering if I could have had it
for $4500 with just a little bit more negotiating.
When I go shopping, I don't intend to insult.
Just to walk away with the best deal possible.
And I'm not cheap. I'm frugal.
I gotta go to work. See ya bud.
h2odrx
Anti-O
There's a reason that I offer a little low.
We'll use the other truck as an example for this.
If I were to offer $4700 for a $5000 truck the guy would
say, ya OK, sure, that'll work. And you have a deal.
If I were to offer $4300, he'll say no and come back
with a counter offer and we may end up agreeing on
$4500-$4650. That would save me some money and
I'll never leave there wondering if I could have had it
for $4500 with just a little bit more negotiating.
When I go shopping, I don't intend to insult.
Just to walk away with the best deal possible.
And I'm not cheap. I'm frugal.
I gotta go to work. See ya bud.
Frugal that's it!!!
That is the same way I think!
Buying Used Power Stroke Diesels
Things To Look For When Buying A Used Power Stroke Diesel
Turbo:
You might take the air tube off the back of the air filter and look inside of it. If there is dirt build up, that is a very bad sign, so are the turbo fins looking sand blasted or bent. A little oily film is normal since the valve cover breather exits inside the tube.
Airbox:
Check the two bolts holding down the airbox lid. If they are plastic with a square recess, it is a recalled part. The recall is expired, but without the updated lid the risk of dirt infiltration is greater, the lid was updated with more supports and the updated bolts are metal with a straight slot. If it is the old style, you spend around $80 to update it.
Tranny:
If you buy a truck with an auto tranny, finding out if it's been maintained is essential, as the E4OD is an expensive transmission. Also, (if auto) seeing if the truck has an auxiliary transmission cooler would be worthwhile. For sticks, listen for clunking when shutting off or small vibration while operating. It could be an indication of a dual mass flywheel going out. Many have replaced them with single mass units.
Rear Gear Ratio:
4:10 will pull better, get slightly lower mpg’s and run a higher RPM compared to 3:55.
Coolant:
Ask the previous owner about the coolant - have they been adding FW16 or DCA4 to keep a proper SCA level? It is very important for stopping cavitation. You can get test strips to check the SCA level from NAPA, International, or Ford. I would test the current condition while looking over the truck, the SCA level should be between 1.5 and 3.0. Also, see if it has a block heater (it was an option on 97's).
Front end:
Check the front end for wear, or have an alignment shop check out the ball joints and steering linkage (tie rod ends). If they are shot, it is spendy (all four tie rods are around $400 just for parts, ball joint labor is also very spendy)
Oil:
The questions to ask are how often the oil was changed (at least every 5,000) and what kind of oil they used (diesel rated)? An oil analysis could tell you if there might be an engine problem or not.
Aftermarket stuff:
Seeing if the truck has got an aftermarket downpipe would be nice, a chip, or gauges (pyrometer, trans temp, etc.). Ask about any added items and who installed them.
Glow Plugs/Relay:
Find out if the glow plugs are in good working condition as well as the relay. Ask if either has been changed and when. You can check the glow plug resistance through the valve cover connector if needed and the relay should have power to both large terminals on top when the key is turned on, and one of the terminals should go out before ~2 minutes.
Injector o-rings:
The injector O-rings have been known to be a problem. The new o-ring sets have a pink middle seal. If the truck has an o-ring problem, one of the signs can be a discoloration of the fuel in the filter bowl. There is a drain on the passenger side front of the filter bowl for draining water (the filter is also the water separator) and you can catch some of the drained fuel in a jar – it should be dingy yellow and not blue or dark.
Leaks and Drips:
You can check the valley between the heads of the V8 for moisture and/or fluid. It should be dry not wet. Most leaks will run through this valley and down the back of the motor dripping off by the tranny/engine coupling.
VIN number:
If you take the VIN to any dealer, they can tell you when it was built, when it went into service, and some of the work that might have been done on it. You can also run prospective VIN's through Carfax.com to see the title history
The above info stolen from Baz's site. Click it!
Things To Look For When Buying A Used Power Stroke Diesel
Turbo:
You might take the air tube off the back of the air filter and look inside of it. If there is dirt build up, that is a very bad sign, so are the turbo fins looking sand blasted or bent. A little oily film is normal since the valve cover breather exits inside the tube.
Airbox:
Check the two bolts holding down the airbox lid. If they are plastic with a square recess, it is a recalled part. The recall is expired, but without the updated lid the risk of dirt infiltration is greater, the lid was updated with more supports and the updated bolts are metal with a straight slot. If it is the old style, you spend around $80 to update it.
Tranny:
If you buy a truck with an auto tranny, finding out if it's been maintained is essential, as the E4OD is an expensive transmission. Also, (if auto) seeing if the truck has an auxiliary transmission cooler would be worthwhile. For sticks, listen for clunking when shutting off or small vibration while operating. It could be an indication of a dual mass flywheel going out. Many have replaced them with single mass units.
Rear Gear Ratio:
4:10 will pull better, get slightly lower mpg’s and run a higher RPM compared to 3:55.
Coolant:
Ask the previous owner about the coolant - have they been adding FW16 or DCA4 to keep a proper SCA level? It is very important for stopping cavitation. You can get test strips to check the SCA level from NAPA, International, or Ford. I would test the current condition while looking over the truck, the SCA level should be between 1.5 and 3.0. Also, see if it has a block heater (it was an option on 97's).
Front end:
Check the front end for wear, or have an alignment shop check out the ball joints and steering linkage (tie rod ends). If they are shot, it is spendy (all four tie rods are around $400 just for parts, ball joint labor is also very spendy)
Oil:
The questions to ask are how often the oil was changed (at least every 5,000) and what kind of oil they used (diesel rated)? An oil analysis could tell you if there might be an engine problem or not.
Aftermarket stuff:
Seeing if the truck has got an aftermarket downpipe would be nice, a chip, or gauges (pyrometer, trans temp, etc.). Ask about any added items and who installed them.
Glow Plugs/Relay:
Find out if the glow plugs are in good working condition as well as the relay. Ask if either has been changed and when. You can check the glow plug resistance through the valve cover connector if needed and the relay should have power to both large terminals on top when the key is turned on, and one of the terminals should go out before ~2 minutes.
Injector o-rings:
The injector O-rings have been known to be a problem. The new o-ring sets have a pink middle seal. If the truck has an o-ring problem, one of the signs can be a discoloration of the fuel in the filter bowl. There is a drain on the passenger side front of the filter bowl for draining water (the filter is also the water separator) and you can catch some of the drained fuel in a jar – it should be dingy yellow and not blue or dark.
Leaks and Drips:
You can check the valley between the heads of the V8 for moisture and/or fluid. It should be dry not wet. Most leaks will run through this valley and down the back of the motor dripping off by the tranny/engine coupling.
VIN number:
If you take the VIN to any dealer, they can tell you when it was built, when it went into service, and some of the work that might have been done on it. You can also run prospective VIN's through Carfax.com to see the title history
The above info stolen from Baz's site. Click it!
h2odrx
Anti-O
Thats good stuff!
Thanks!
Thanks!
lotzagoodstuff
Full Access Member
I know you are probably looking for an IDI, and I know this is far away, but I think I would spend a little more and get this one:
http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/car/664211074.html
I think this one would be a good price if it were an XLT with 96K, but I think it's a steal for a Centurion truck.
Just my .02 worth, good luck to you no matter what you end up with.
http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/car/664211074.html
I think this one would be a good price if it were an XLT with 96K, but I think it's a steal for a Centurion truck.
Just my .02 worth, good luck to you no matter what you end up with.
h2odrx
Anti-O
That one is sweet, but I'm still looking!!!
h2odrx
Anti-O
JLDickmon
Bo Duke
That's a decent looking truck for the year.
I can't tell you what to offer on it.
Everybody shops differently.
I'd have $4500. in my wallet, the rest stashed in my other pockets in $200. increments.
h2odrx
Anti-O
I didn't go for the 95, found this 97 on CL local, emailed the guy for almost a month, then got my money together and when it was all said and done walked away with money in my pocket!!!!
geonc
SPIDER BAIT
I didn't go for the 95, found this 97 on CL local, emailed the guy for almost a month, then got my money together and when it was all said and done walked away with money in my pocket!!!!
Better deal on the '97...no HPOP drainback issues for one!
Did you work the purchase price enough in your favor for the
"change immediatley" items such as DP, cold air etc....?
We are close enough so...when do I get to see it
Oh yea...welcome to the darkside
....now open your wallet
;p
h2odrx
Anti-O
Better deal on the '97...no HPOP drainback issues for one!
Did you work the purchase price enough in your favor for the
"change immediately" items such as DP, cold air etc....?
We are close enough so...when do I get to see it
Oh yea...welcome to the darkside
....now open your wallet
He went for $4k! As far as the "change immediately" I'm not sure yet. Stock aint bad? As long as I don't break it I'll keep the wallet closed.;p
69oiler
I don't feel tardy
yep when you're used to an NA IDI a stock PSD feels fast.
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