Hello, good morning, and I'm screwed.

[WasteOBurner]

Hello, good morning, and I'm screwed. (maybe too dramatic?)

As above, just purchased a 1992 f250. 7.3, 4x4, Zf5. High mileage, 265k. well maintained by previous second owner. I bought it for work, I'm an ironworker, and I have heavy things to move around in mud.
anyway, here is the story.
I'm a proficient mechanic. It was running pretty well, no problems until I tried to install trailer lights. Now, it won't fire. cranks very quickly, wts light comes on for 10 seconds, and flashes once.
here are my symptoms. all of the following happened after installing the trailer lights, (which I have already removed by the way.) Right before the no start, the solenoid, (can't identify which one), would click on, off, on and off. very strange. (It was doing this when I was testing the trailer lights for operation, with the key in the first position, engine off.)
Driver side power window doesn't work.
No brake lights.
No start.
The power window switch is good.
the brake light bulbs are good.
the gpc is getting 12v at the terminal when off, and when key is on, is getting 12v at both terminals
I have done the obligatory searching, and troubleshooting.
I plan on installing a manual glow plug system, I have in the past and can be trusted not to burn up the glow-plugs.
I will test the glow-plugs now and report back.
the fuses are good. two were blown. one in the cabin for the 12v cig lighter, and one in the engine bay, number 5, 15amp. (back up trailer relay)
thank you in advance

 

[79jasper]

You need to check for power at the FSV on the injection pump.

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[WasteOBurner]

You need to check for power at the FSV on the injection pump.

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Ok, thank you, I'm on it.

 

[icanfixall]

My guess is the ignition switch has failed but. Before doing that job please tell us if you disconnected wires from the fender mounted solenoid when you tried to wire in the trailer lites. Somehow your power is jumping somewhere and hotting up the truck but not the fuel shut off solenoid on top of the injection pump. Look at the top of the pump and see the 2 wires. The large spade connector closest to the radiator is the fuel shut off solenoid. Remove it from the pump and listen for the solenoid to click open or closed. If no sound then run a jumper wire from the positive of either battery and try to start it. If the engine starts you will have to remove that jumper wire to shut down the engine.

 

[WasteOBurner]

My guess is the ignition switch has failed but. Before doing that job please tell us if you disconnected wires from the fender mounted solenoid when you tried to wire in the trailer lites. Somehow your power is jumping somewhere and hotting up the truck but not the fuel shut off solenoid on top of the injection pump. Look at the top of the pump and see the 2 wires. The large spade connector closest to the radiator is the fuel shut off solenoid. Remove it from the pump and listen for the solenoid to click open or closed. If no sound then run a jumper wire from the positive of either battery and try to start it. If the engine starts you will have to remove that jumper wire to shut down the engine.

icanfixall, I swear, every time I do what you tell me to do, my truck gets fixed. ok, so, I am getting 12v at the fuel shut of solenoid. I unplugged it, and plugged it back in, heard the clicking. I unplugged it, with key off. turned the key to wts, and heard the intermittent clicking of the glow plug relay. I knew it would start, and it did. so... I am going ahead with making my truck a manual glow plug truck. icanfixall, any thoughts? on the fender mounted solenoid, with key off, I am getting 12v on one terminal... with key on, I am still only getting 12v on one terminal?

 

[79jasper]

Exactly how long have you had this truck?

Why do you think you need manual control of the glowplugs?

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[WasteOBurner]

Exactly how long have you had this truck?

Why do you think you need manual control of the glowplugs?

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I have had the truck a week or so. I have a total of 3 idi's, all manual glow plug trucks, never had an issue, totally rock solid reliable. At this point, I want to go manual to eliminate any more variables, to make troubleshooting in the future more straightforward.

 

[TWeatherford]

I wouldn't have an IDI without manual glow plugs, but only on a momentary switch.

 

[79jasper]

I like manual control also. Wasn't debating which was better.

Was just wandering if his was working.

So the stuff you listed in your first post that's not working, how much was working when you got the truck?

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[icanfixall]

That fender mounted solenoid will always be hot on one side of it. Follow the heavy lead wire back to the battery so see its always hot. Now every wire on that side of the solenoid is always hot too so be careful working on the glow plug controller and the alternator too. they also are always hot. Now when the key is on the other side of the solenoid will still be cold. No power till the trigger wire thats on the push pull connector is energised. Thats the proper way that solenoid works. Seldom does that solenoid fail but when it does buy only the heavy duty one. Mel had his fail so he bought a cheapy china import and it too failed in short order. So he opened it and found out the internals were so thin and weak theres no wonder it failed. He compared it to the oem one that failed after 20+ years. Went right out and bought a ford only heavy duty soleniod from ford. Lesson learned that cheaper parts are just that. I replaced mine several years back but I keep the oem solenoid under the rear seat. Turns out I had other issues. Sarter was grinding on the ring gear. Finally figured out what that issue was and replaced the flexplate gear but only after I removed it and moved the gear to better teeth. I got 110% out of that gear...

 

[chris142]

Guess ill be the oddball guy and my gp system is still stock and works fine

 

[WasteOBurner]

Guess ill be the oddball guy and my gp system is still stock and works fine

I agree, I would normally keep everything stock, but the glow plugs being manual, give me a bit more control, and less things to troubleshoot.

 

[opusd2]

You know, on these older trucks, sometimes they run GREAT! Until you just make a small change like an upgrade for one of it's planned purposes, then call in William Shatner to tell you that there's a "gremlin". It can be the dumbest thing, and very frustrating. But I would meticulously go back through everything you did and make sure it is the same as you found it, then see what happens.

One power wire accidentally grounded can be your worst hidden nightmare. Especially if it decides to do it hidden in the ****** of plastic enclosures like fuse boxes and connectors

 

[icanfixall]

With todays marvels I suggest before we take something apart to take pictures of what we are working on. Use our cell phones because its easy and most have them handy. After the job is done simply delete them. If you have a problem just look at the pics. they are very helpful.