Headed to the pick and pull

[FordGuy100]

Yup, Thursday me and a buddy are headed to a pick and pull. My goal is to find everything needed for a hydroboost setup (out of a F450).

What I need to know is what do I need to grab for a complete swap, and how much should I be willing to pay?

 

[Devilish]

So you already know there's a f450 in the yard?
I recently discovered that the pick n pull web site has a vehicle search engine. Input make and model and it'll show you year, which yard, and what row it's supposed to be in. Too bad it doesn't differentiate between gas n diesel.

 

[FordGuy100]

Well is it all good to get a hydroboost setup off of a gasser?

 

[towcat]

Well is it all good to get a hydroboost setup off of a gasser?

the hydro unit is the same gasser or diesel. the pressure hose from pump to the hydro would be different, if any.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

That hose should be the same, it screws into the relief valve fitting in the pump, and I'm a prime example that relief valve fittings are interchangeable as I run a relief valve setup from a Lincoln Mark VII (for higher line pressure) and the year-correct F-Superduty pressure hose for my truck. Where you may see differences is the pressure hose from the hydro to the steering box, as some steering boxes have an o-ring setup while others have double-flare, IIRC Mel ran into that issue with the Moose Truck.

 

[THECACKLER]

You want the booster from the same series truck that you have, for you that means pre-88 I think. I don't know if the 88-92 will have the correct push-rod and mounting bracket. Finding the right one is the hardest part of the whole job. The rod must be straight or parallel to the center-line of the booster when installed. I got one that was adapted from a different year and the push-rod was binding in the swivel joint where it's crimped onto the piston rod. Some years are made with a grommet style attachment that is also used as a replacement when you rebuild the booster. If you have any doubts, get the pedal assembly to match as it's easier to swap out that to just change the brake pedal.
Before you pull the booster, look up by the push-rod to see if it's aligned straight into the booster and also check for fluid leakage from the booster right there, similar to a leaking master cylinder. The boosters are like $300 to get rebuilt. You can get kits from PirateJacks. Also check the accumulator. You shouldn't be able to move it if it is still holding pressure. You might be able to twist it but you surely should not be able to push it in at all. The blue ones are charged with nitrogen to 450 psi and the Gold are 350psi. The Blue is for 1 ton trucks and that's the one you want. Gold will work but you will have a little less reserve pressure. Do Not get the silver one. It is the old spring loaded type and not re-buildable.
You might want to grab the master cylinder and the two pressure hoses ( pump to HB & HB to GB ) as well as the power steering pump. At least grab the reservoir as it has two return fittings on it. Also grab the fitting that holds the reservoir on and maybe the spring that's under the fitting. Take a magnet with you to get it out. Average price for the just the booster is $75. Maybe $125-$150 for everything. You can get the return line as bulk hose from the auto parts. You can get the hoses as well as the reservoir new but it'll run another $75 or so. You'll like real brakes.

 

[FordGuy100]

So I'm going to need the whole hydroboost setup. It would be wise to get the power steering pump, and all the lines. Should I get the power steering gearbox so that all the fittings will work with each other? If I grabbed those three things in theory I wouldnt need to mess with different line fittings, ect, correct?

And the thing about the brake pedal kinda confuses me, should I just take the brake pedal assembly out of the donar truck just for good measure?

 

[towcat]

So I'm going to need the whole hydroboost setup. It would be wise to get the power steering pump, and all the lines. Should I get the power steering gearbox so that all the fittings will work with each other? If I grabbed those three things in theory I wouldnt need to mess with different line fittings, ect, correct?

And the thing about the brake pedal kinda confuses me, should I just take the brake pedal assembly out of the donar truck just for good measure?

you won't need the gearbox.
here's a pic on the pedals on why you really should grab the pedal while you're at it. the pedal on the bottom is for the hydro.

 

[RLDSL]

No need to change your gearbox. The reservoir has 2 return fittings on it if memory serves me, and then the pressure line splits off somewhere, someone can correct me here, but there are no changes at the steering box. Only had those things show up twice here at the boneyard and I eyeballed it real good , almost did it, but I really want the super overkill system off the larger truck with the electric backup pump instead of the accumulator. One of those would be super cool, you could be coming down a serious mountain loaded heavy and stall and it would be no worries

 

[sassyrel]

So I'm going to need the whole hydroboost setup. It would be wise to get the power steering pump, and all the lines. Should I get the power steering gearbox so that all the fittings will work with each other? If I grabbed those three things in theory I wouldnt need to mess with different line fittings, ect, correct?

And the thing about the brake pedal kinda confuses me, should I just take the brake pedal assembly out of the donar truck just for good measure?

id get it all while there--who takes brake pedal stuff out of a truck anyhow--he should just give that to you--but then you know it will be the correct stuff--

 

[FordGuy100]

The reason behind thinking about getting the gearbox was the possiblity of different hose fittings on it? But if its the same....then whatever.

Looks like I'll grab the peddal assembly, the hydroboost setup, the powerstreering pump, and all the hoses. That should work

 

[icanfixall]

About the peddles... The auto trans truck has a differnt peddle shaft size than the standard trans trucks have. You need the standard trans peddle. That means you will need to remove the brake and clutch assembly from under the dash. The peddle shaft wont slide out like an auto trans brake peddle shaft will... Get the larger master cylinder too.... Its a 1 5/16 piston and works great....You will need the pulley removel tool to get the ps pump off the mount...

 

[towcat]

....You will need the pulley removel tool to get the ps pump off the mount...

V-belt brackets don't require the pulley to be removed.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Looks like I'll grab the peddal assembly, the hydroboost setup, the powerstreering pump, and all the hoses. That should work

You don't need the whole PS pump, just the reservoir off it - when you take the pressure hose off it also pull that big nut it was screwed in, then you can just wiggle the reservoir out - it's a real cheesy setup, but I guess it works.

 

[The Warden]

Re: the pedals, I thought that the brick nose and slant nose pedal assemblies weren't compatible? Maybe I heard/remember wrong...but I was under the impression that the only way to get hydroboost working with a slant nose was to relocate the pin that the pushrod goes onto, and that you needed a welder to do that?