Found some yucki

[OLDBULL8]

Just throwing parts at a problem can cause more problems.

That EEC relay you just changed to a new one is obviously defective or the wrong relay. There usually is a pin/contact numbers on the bottom or a pin/contact diagram on the side. Compare the two.

The wires on the tach sensor look to be touching the metal part of the sensor, if either wire is bare and touching the metal part, the signal will short out. The electrical signal is very small in Micro Volts. When you speed the engine up, the air from the fan can blow those wires, possibly clearing a grounded wire.

Until you get the tach working properly, I wouldn't change the trans. solenoid pack. I don't think you need too.

When you where in the driveway and the truck wouldn't move, to me that would indicate low trans. fluid level. Check the level when the trans is hot, engine running and in PARK or NEUTRAL.

It's also possible the wrong trans filter has been put in. A 4x4 has a deep pan and must use the long neck filter, a short neck filter will and can be installed, but if they fall down, the trans pump will suck air, possibly what you had happen.

Check mark your "Show your signature" It's nice to know your trucks specs without going back to previous posts to find out.

Hope this helps ya out.

 

[waynetrain]

Hey oldbull! thanks for taking time to comment sir! I did examine the relays side by side, the noticeable difference was the new relay had a 5th pin hole but no pin, they were numbered exactly in the same sequence. I got my money back. The wires touching could be an issue, i had the lady for these past few evenings watching the tach for me with truck running, while i wiggle wires , press them down in their respect holes/ports/pins, cleaned them all with electrical cleaner and tach never budged. I did notice that my fan clutch is worn out lol.... noticed that when she shut the engine down while search for more wires to clean. I will def take your advice and not touch the tranny until i pick this tach sensor up in the a.m. then ill go from there.
-- The driveway issue , i trans was topped off with fluid, from previously dropping it and changing front seal. I checked it prior to towing my first car, with no leaks (parked out front at my shop on pavement) As for the filter being wrong, that could be it as i didnt know any different and they only listed one filter and gasket kit for thee40d.

Just throwing parts at a problem can cause more problems.

That EEC relay you just changed to a new one is obviously defective or the wrong relay. There usually is a pin/contact numbers on the bottom or a pin/contact diagram on the side. Compare the two.

The wires on the tach sensor look to be touching the metal part of the sensor, if either wire is bare and touching the metal part, the signal will short out. The electrical signal is very small in Micro Volts. When you speed the engine up, the air from the fan can blow those wires, possibly clearing a grounded wire.

Until you get the tach working properly, I wouldn't change the trans. solenoid pack. I don't think you need too.

When you where in the driveway and the truck wouldn't move, to me that would indicate low trans. fluid level. Check the level when the trans is hot, engine running and in PARK or NEUTRAL.

It's also possible the wrong trans filter has been put in. A 4x4 has a deep pan and must use the long neck filter, a short neck filter will and can be installed, but if they fall down, the trans pump will suck air, possibly what you had happen.

Check mark your "Show your signature" It's nice to know your trucks specs without going back to previous posts to find out.

Hope this helps ya out.

 

[OLDBULL8]

Still don't know what your truck is. Lower left hand corner in any post, check mark the "Show your signature".

What makes you think the fan clutch is bad?

To tell the difference whether you have the deep trans pan or the OEM. The deep pan is about 6" deep and the OEM is about 3-1/2" deep.

 

[riotwarrior]

Still don't know what your truck is. Lower left hand corner in any post, check mark the "Show your signature".

What makes you think the fan clutch is bad?

To tell the difference whether you have the deep trans pan or the OEM. The deep pan is about 6" deep and the OEM is about 3-1/2" deep.

Not sure on year...bricknose iirc Bill...has a superduty that much I do know.

 

[waynetrain]

Sorry about that sir, i didnt even have one made, after looking for the show my sig button for an eternity lol

Still don't know what your truck is. Lower left hand corner in any post, check mark the "Show your signature".

What makes you think the fan clutch is bad?

To tell the difference whether you have the deep trans pan or the OEM. The deep pan is about 6" deep and the OEM is about 3-1/2" deep.

 

[waynetrain]

I have reason to believe that the clutch fan is bad because when it was shut off the fan just continued to spin = weak clutch in my experience. I wonder if that has anything to do with trans possibly getting too hot ?? It happened in my 1964 impala luckily i noticed it before i burned the trans up. I have the OEM trans pan just double checked.

Still don't know what your truck is. Lower left hand corner in any post, check mark the "Show your signature".

What makes you think the fan clutch is bad?

To tell the difference whether you have the deep trans pan or the OEM. The deep pan is about 6" deep and the OEM is about 3-1/2" deep.

 

[OLDBULL8]

That's normal for the fan to spin a little when shutting down. On a cold engine stopped, there should be a little drag on the fan. In the center of the clutch there is a small spring, it could be plugged with dirt and oil, that what adjusts the fan to go into hi speed when the rad temp reaches 240 degrees. If there is oil on the spring, that means the silicone oil has leaked out and the clutch is defective. You can clean it with Brake Kleen and blow it out.

That won't make the trans run hot,

Do you have an auxiliary cooler on the front of the radiator for the trans?

 

[waynetrain]

Yes sir i do, there are 2 of them mounted behind the grill.

 

[waynetrain]

update
put solenoid pack in, truck had so much more power acceleration and smoother shifting. Unfortunately....... its been a rough day, i charged batteries up and wanted to test drive it since i didn't have enough driving time last night to CHECK everything out thoroughly, I drove it for around 23 minutes to a jumpstart for a insurance customer and on my way back to the shop it kept popping out of gear!!! I was so disappointed. Im honestly not sure where to go from here. All of you guys have led me in the right direction with my tach, trans seal and other issues and just when i thought this beast was ready to make some money this happens....... So im kind of lost right now fellas. The Lady is ready to throw in the towel and i am too just not telling her lol. She told me to price a rebuilt or new one and she wanted me to ask you guys for a dependable company to go for as she doesn't want to make a bad choice so what are your thoughts gentlemen?
I found a website called enginesandtransmissionworld or similiar that has used ones with 1yr warranties. Keep in mind i just need this truck running top notch so i can pull in some $$ from the insurance companies to finance a brand new 2016 which should only take me 1-3 months tops while keep the 7.3IDI because i have grown attached to it. I can just drop new everything in it to keep it on the road for the next 10 years in my business.

 

[trackspeeder]

"Dropping out of gear" Tranny going to neutral while in drive is a sign of a faulty transmission range sensor.

 

[waynetrain]

I located it. Wish i would of thought to check this earlier or post the update, every place i could possibly get one is closed :-(
Anyone have an extra for sale close to me ))

 

[waynetrain]

Would this be listed as just the Nuetral safety switch at the parts stores @trackspeeder by chance. Im not showing a listing at oriellys for Transmission range sensor but showing a Neutral safety switch which looks identical

what is at oriellys

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

the teca relay is bad as indicated by a dim od light and high gear starts.
the tach sensor is bad as indicated by a 0 reading at idle. ----- change the bad relay before replacing this! if the tach then works properly,then no need to replace.....couple bucks vs 80$! and you know the relay is faulty anyway.
the solenoid pack has failed as indicated by a failed seal.
the range sensor (formally known as MLPS) has failed due to the dropping in N while driving.

teca relay and s-pack failures were diagnosed in a previous thread;
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?76301-my-makers-down!


sounds like your making progress! she's just got old wiring,failed seals from sitting and some corrosion in the wiring.
all to be expected with a truck left sitting for years.

a replacement trans would act identical to the one in there.odds are 99.9% high that yours is fine.your almost there brother!


edit;
yeah,often you need to ask parts counters for a neutral safety switch for the MLPS/range sensor to come up in the computers.
so long as the part looks like the one iv attached.

 

[waynetrain]

I so much appreciate all of you one day I hope to buy all of you either a six-pack of beer or lunch your choice I'm at O'Reilly's now bout to pick up a neutral safety switch everything that you just listed has been replaced and fixed and it drove so good this morning on my test drive until the SOB kept popping out of gear and wouldn't shift I thought it was the end of the world I'm really and truly hoping that this safety switch will allow me to make some money!

the teca relay is bad as indicated by a dim od light and high gear starts.
the tach sensor is bad as indicated by a 0 reading at idle.
the solenoid pack has failed as indicated by a failed seal.
the range sensor (formally known as MLPS) has failed due to the dropping in N while driving.

teca relay and s-pack failures were diagnosed in a previous thread;
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?76301-my-makers-down!


sounds like your making progress! she's just got old wiring,failed seals from sitting and some corrosion in the wiring.
all to be expected with a truck left sitting for years.

a replacement trans would act identical to the one in there.odds are 99.9% high that yours is fine.your almost there brother!


edit;
yeah,often you need to ask parts counters for a neutral safety switch for the MLPS/range sensor to come up in the computers.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

yeah that's very scary when a range sensor fails because you would think it was mechanical.very frightening.
rest assured,trackspeeder got ya headed towards the cure with that one.

on your way home,go easy.when you feel it go out of gear,manually shift it to N and roll to a stop then start out again.
letting it find it's way back in and bang is very nasty for it.just go easy.