First start after swap..Sealing water pump and bolts

hacked89

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It sounds like an injector hanging. Outside of the questions with the thermal camera and heat there’s not much more you can do without tools you don’t have to diagnose. If you want to go from cheapest to most expensive your first stop could be checking the timing.
 

94turbocrewcab-lb

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So I’m going to get ready and swap my injection pump and lines to this motor. And then I’ll get it timed.

In the mean time I’ve noticed a slight “low fluid vane pump” sorta noise coming from around the torque converter..it’s stead and kinda faint really. But it reminds me of a cold power steering pump noise. But just much quieter..is this normal and I’m noticing because I have the cover removed?

I checked the fluid level and I can never really tell where it’s at but it’s kinda wet all over in the stick..I added some fluid to account for what was lost during radiator/line removal. But maybe I just am running way to low on fluid..really though that dip stick is pretty hard to read right?

What are your thoughts? The truck always ran fine and never made a transmission noise before.

Maybe the pump got tweaked when pulling the motor out? Maybe it’s low fluid and I can’t tell?
 

IDIBRONCO

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All I can say about that is that it seems like it's easier to read the fluid level after it sits or runs for a while. Especially after adding more fluid. I think it just needs time to all run down the tube.
 

Brian VT

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I was under the impression that the hot method was more accurate than the cold (settled) method.
But it's all over the stick after warming up and then going through the gears per the shop manual.
 

94turbocrewcab-lb

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I believe I read that you can wipe the dipstick with a blue shop towel and then stick it back in..then pull it and use the rag to go down the plastic end..it’ll absorb once it reaches fluid?
 

Cant Write

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Regarding a hard to read tranny dipstick, i pull with a warm engine idling, wipe it clean, rub spit on it, then reinsert and pull to check.

There should be a line where the oil/spit met showing the level. Sometimes I look on the backside of the dipstick to find the “level line” and see where it transfers on the front.

This has always worked well for me on dipsticks that are all metal. The plastic thing I find annoying.
 

Cant Write

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Not sure, did the TC stay fully seated when you removed the engine?

When the new engine was installed, did the gap between the TC/flex plate look right before bolting them together?

After adding fluid, did you drive it, or run it through the gears stopping at each one with foot on brake? If driven, did it shift fine, or delayed, or slipped, or shift late and full line pressure?
 

94turbocrewcab-lb

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I’m pretty sure I pushed the TC back on when the engine was out.

Once it was back in, there was about 3/16 space between the TC and the flexplate..the bolts in the mounts were lined up on the motor mounts..and I haven’t done that trans fluid test/check procedure
 

IDIBRONCO

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I've never tried to measure it, but that sounds pretty close. I know that you should be able to wiggle the torque convertor with the transmission bolted tight to the engine. When I do an install with an automatic transmission, I'll check the torque convertor several times during the install/tightening process to be sure that it's still free.
 

94turbocrewcab-lb

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I put the truck in neutral and spun the flexplate around while I tightened the nuts..I used the freshly righted nuts to spin the whole unit enough to grab on the next one. So the closed end of a wrench being pulled down towards the passengers side.

I didn’t hear anything during that..but maybe I’m really low on fluid. I’ll get it up to temp and check the fluid with the spit and blue towel method.

I recall a weird shift when I did a short drive but the transmission didn’t get to temp. It’s not all that hooked up yet. I found a 2” leak on the seam of my radiator. Have to pull it back out to get soldered.
 
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