First start after swap..Sealing water pump and bolts

[hacked89]

I’ve heard knocking but not squeeking. The injector you identified as an issue, after the trucks been running when you feel it, is it warmer than the others? Is this the same or different one that you had a leak?

 

[hacked89]

For your aviation permatex it’s 4 hour operational 24 hour cure. I always wait closer to the 24 side.

 

[94turbocrewcab-lb]

The injector isn’t the leaking one..I’ll hit it with the temp gun today and report back. They look relatively new and have a gun metal color..my other engine was more of a rust color. But for all I know they were some cheapo injectors..it’s also got a reman turbo and injection pump, new return lines..this wall done prior to me.

Would it really be worth buying the aviation vs right stuff? I usually set the gasket with right stuff on both sides..I then set the part and just snug up the bolts and then leave it all for 24hrs..then I come back and snug it all up tightly..maybe my leaking water pump is just a couple loose bolts

 

[hacked89]

I’m sharing with you the international spec, you can of course deviate however you would like. I personally use aviation on almost all water pumps I do regardless of whether it’s international. The right stuff is immediate return to service. Also, it’s not advisable to do what you said about snugging and then torquing with permatex. There’s people online that swear by it but it’s not how permatex is designed and they even have it in their FYIs. Do you have a service book? I brush the whole front cover footprint, the water pump surface with aviation and then I the right stuff the 4 bolts. Technically you are suppose to aviation the bolts too but aviation is for around 15 thousands tolerance if I recall and I don’t trust there’s that tolerance on 30 years of service

 

[94turbocrewcab-lb]

So I’ve got it running now.. but still steaming off the coolant that sprayed on the motor..also I have just a slight white haze at idle..perhaps the timing needs to be adjusted?

Also is there any way to see how much coolant I currently have in there?

What’s the best method to drain and save the coolant?

 

[94turbocrewcab-lb]

I just took laser temperature of the injectors..it’s all over the place. I hit them on the flats you’d put a wrench on. The rear drivers side was 225 and the front was 120..I had a range of 70* to 225*

The timing marks are about a dime to a nickel apart..pump turned towards passenger side.

Also I don’t have a manual. I’ll read write ups and use my intuition- I’ve been wrenching since I was about 10yrs..started really digging in around 18 years ago.

 

[hacked89]

So I’ve got it running now.. but still steaming off the coolant that sprayed on the motor..also I have just a slight white haze at idle..perhaps the timing needs to be adjusted?

Also is there any way to see how much coolant I currently have in there?

What’s the best method to drain and save the coolant?

Is it acrid diesel white smoke smell or sweet coolant smell. When the engines cold you can open the cap. For saving, it’s a mess, I’ve pulled the lower radiator hose with a big pan I have a couple times. I also have a transfer pump I’ve put down the radiator which is clean if you have it.

 

[hacked89]

I just took laser temperature of the injectors..it’s all over the place. I hit them on the flats you’d put a wrench on. The rear drivers side was 225 and the front was 120..I had a range of 70* to 225*

The timing marks are about a dime to a nickel apart..pump turned towards passenger side.

Also I don’t have a manual. I’ll read write ups and use my intuition- I’ve been wrenching since I was about 10yrs..started really digging in around 18 years ago.

Was the knocking injector that goes away when you crack it the hot one? When they got stuck open they tend to get warm and cause a knock. I asked about the manual not because of doubting your knowledge but because some of these manuals are hard to come by, and if you need any pictures of sections just let me know. For timing, no way to really tell without putting a meter on the truck because the IP, injectors, etc all wear together and affect timing.

 

[Old Goat]

So I’ve got it running now.. but still steaming off the coolant that sprayed on the motor..also I have just a slight white haze at idle..perhaps the timing needs to be adjusted?

Also is there any way to see how much coolant I currently have in there?

What’s the best method to drain and save the coolant?

When I drain my coolant, I put a hose on the radiator drain C ock, and a HD Plastic cement mixing pan and it stays clean.
(Home Depot)

I save my Wally World 2 gallon oil jugs, wash out the residual oil, and use them for the clean Coolant.
After you can pull the lower hose (if needed) and it goes into the pan, but will pick up some dirt oil etc...


Goat

 

[Jim993]

I would do it one bolt at a time. Have a same size bolt ready to lightly screw to keep the coolant in while you put sealant on the bolt you just removed, then switch to the sealant coated bolt. You will lose a little coolant at each bolt, but not much.

 

[94turbocrewcab-lb]

Well the engine has been sitting for some random amount of time before I got it..I started it up on a chain and then decided it was ok. So I started changing out the old gaskets..then it sat for a bit longer while I sorted out the new flexplate for a factory turbo motor. Justin at r&d hooked me up! But yeah it probably wouldn’t hurt to get a pump, injectors and timing meter. Probably injectors and then a meter as money sees fit. I have various other vehicle projects that come before the ole truck. So it’s got to be done in stages
. Maybe I can add some atf to the tank and run the truck around a little while to see if the injectors clear up?

 

[hacked89]

I would do it one bolt at a time. Have a same size bolt ready to lightly screw to keep the coolant in while you put sealant on the bolt you just removed, then switch to the sealant coated bolt. You will lose a little coolant at each bolt, but not much.

You will not lose coolant out the 4 bolts that need sealant.

Also, he has a different leaking problem outside of the sealant bolts and probably has to pull the whole water pump back off.

 

[94turbocrewcab-lb]

So I’ve driven it a mile or so and it seems to have a steady smoking..cold starts aren’t the best...we’re talking 12* nights..it fires right up, just sounds a bit rougher than I remember.

A steady haze at idle which is very noticeable in the cold. It also sounds a bit knockish now..but it comes and goes.

Should I be considering injectors and a timing meter kit? So really another $700 or so?

 

[hacked89]

The knocking, haziness, and hot injector line(s)? sound like an injector issue. That’s the general symptoms of one hanging open.

I don’t think you answered from earlier, is that white smoke acrid diesel smelling or sweet?

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Not to push you into anything, but a timing meter is NEVER a bad investment these days.