Finally getting another engine

[stuborn nut]

So this is the start if a rebuilt engine for my rig. I have been collecting parts and trying to decide what I was going to do for about 3 years now. So what I decided was 6.9 is the least expensive base engine for me to put together so I had a little left over for some of the extras I wanted. This is what I got so far IH std 6.9l inframe set, heads got a handful of new valves and all new guides surfaced and comp springs. Block was honed decked and cleaned. I am working on tapping the soft plugs to 1 1/4" pipe for plugs. Got a Type4 cam,Moose Jr. with a smoke puff eliminator, Moose misters, ARP studs.

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Here is my rig.

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got the block on the table wil get it on the stand when the soft plugs and the cam bearings are done

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crank and spare parts swapped in a zf5 last summer now need to get my mt tilt colum in

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parts is parts, forgot how mach room engine can take up. Also got the rotating assembly balanced for the 7.3l luk single mass flywheel.

 

[icanfixall]

About using 1 1/4 inch threaded freeze plugs. Just buy the boss 429 thread in freeze plugs. Also be careful you do not thread to deeply into the block. The pipe threads are taper cut into whatever they are cut into be it a flat plate or a pipe fitting. You can cut threads too deep. Normally you want to see 2 1/2 threads showing when the fitting it tight.

 

[stuborn nut]

the problem I had was getting the thread deep enough. Tap would only go in so far then bottom out against cylinder wall. What size are the 429 freeze plugs?

 

[stuborn nut]

I have 2 head sets a new set of felpro and a ih set that has been sitting on a shelf for 15 years. What would be the better set?

 

[TahoeTom]

Excellent rig you have there. Subscribed. Depending on how much the block was decked you may run into piston/valve clearance issues. Are you using your original pistons? You may want to shave them. The compression ratio will be even higher with them even if they don't interfere with the valves. You could ceramic coat the crowns after shaving. Mahle makes a piston with the wrist pin .010 higher to lower the piston and compression and compensate for decking the block. You will probably have some fitment issues with the intake manifold. My heads were shaved and I had to file out the bolt holes in the intake to allow the bolts to thread in without a lot of drag.
Is this a spare engine or did you pull it from the truck? Do you have bolt in piston squirters?

 

[stuborn nut]

This is a spare engine. I am using new oem pistons. I shaved them a little got the protrusion to .021" to .23". It is a older block with press in squirters. I may have some issues with the intake gut will face that when I get there hopefully in a few hours.

 

[stuborn nut]

making a little progress getting a bite to eat while the paint sets up a little

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found another use for my lathe. This is the easiest way I found to put the oil cooler together. (I'm no machinist I just got a good deal on a big old lathe a few years ago)

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this is a fitting I added for the turbo return line

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[IDIBRONCO]

If the oil squirters are the press in type, you have the earlier "A" block. they were known for cracking externally behind the block heater. Just make sure the block heater is installed properly. I don't know how cold it gets there in the winter time, but if you do plug your truck in, don't do it when the engine's cold. Do it when the engine's still warm. The blocks were cast too thin in that spot. Hot coolant from the heater against the cold block is what would make it crack.

 

[TahoeTom]

The reinforced block came before the bolt in squirters.

 

[stuborn nut]

Not that cold around here get mid 20s is about all seems to start fine. I was thinking of just putting a brass soft plug in the hole? seems a little rusty don't know if it would seal well. I hope the block will hold up.

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this is what I got this afternoon

 

[79jasper]

You could always just use a block heater. Just cut the element off.
Why can't you tap and plug it also?

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[stuborn nut]

I ended up just tapping it also.

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almost ready to start. A few fuel and return lines. I managed to put a hole in the radiator while it was sitting around got it soldered up sort of. The water pump gasket is leaking, I hope that it's the only leak. With any luck it will be ready to install by next weekend.

 

[stuborn nut]

So it's been a little while. Here are some updates. Got the engine together and ran it on the stand. Good thing there were a couple of water leaks that I fought with a little. Does anybody know which timing covers have the dimples stamped in around the water pump? One of mine did but to many tore apart engines to remember what is what. Anyway I got the firewall plate installed the hydro boost and petal welded the engine cross member to the frame, got the mt steering colume in and then repaired it (should have looked at it a little closer).

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there is a shot of the hydra boost, metal clutch master and line hypermax cowl air and such

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out with the old!

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got my intercooler fit and hung with most of the front stuff back on need to finish up cutting the back of the grill off

 

[riotwarrior]

Lookin sharp, mig welds on the frame/crossmember?

 

[stuborn nut]

Lookin sharp, mig welds on the frame/crossmember?

Yeah I use the mig when I can. My old Miller stick machine is a little thirsty and don't like to listen to it.