Extended cab onto Reg cab frame

[Saskredneck]

Both of my IDI's are pretty rough and the cabs need a lot of work or swapped out. I have a donor 86 F150 reg cab that will end up on my 4x4 frame, and also have a donor 86 f150 extended cab I want to put onto my 2wd frame. How much of a body lift is needed to make th extended cab work? Have been thinking of cutting the cab to clear frame but that's a lot of extra work. Truck will be getting a flat deck so just need to lift cab and front clip up.
The truck I'd like to make extended cab

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Donor truck

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I have a while to plan this, Its going to be a while until I can get the donor truck out of its parking spot

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[junk]

I've not done the swap, but one guy who did it said he did a 3" body lift. Not sure if he needed all the height.

 

[franklin2]

Should be easy enough to get under the reg cab truck and measure the kick-up in the frame behind the cab.

 

[riotwarrior]

I can speak to this and I"ve got this exact project sorta going on in my Brown Bruin build thread so search it out.

Bottom line, its at a point now for me where I've got to pull the RC off the frame and T R I A L fit the SC onto the RC frame with 3" lift blocks at the forward cab mount.

The rad support and first cab mount at fire wall will require a 3" lift for sure, however I'm going to use cab mounts similar to the firewall mount that is outboard of the frame. SEE MY THREAD for more details.

We got a bad ass cold snap here so I've got to wait out the cold before I can start doing fitting. If it fits, with minor cut to body, then I'm doing it.

The main concern is the frame kicks up 4 1/4" +- a wee bit...but the SC floor has more clearance than RC floor, two completely different shapes!

The other concern is the front fuel tank's in/out/sending unit which could interfere with the mounting of the cab, AGAIN SEE MY BUILD THREAD for more info.

Hope these tips assist you in your plans.

Al

 

[93blklightning]

I had to drop my front fuel tank by 1 1/2". I cut two 6" long pieces of 4" channel steel, then welded them to the cross members over the tank, to block the tank lower, and cut two pieces of mining belt. roughly 8"x8" , to cushion between the tank and blocks.. Used two pieces of 6" long all thread rod to extend the straps.

 

[93blklightning]

To mount the rear of the cab, I cut a piece of 4" channel steel as a cross member, I then had to trim the edge of the channel steel over the fuel tank to clear the tank. Then if I remember right, I had to cut two 2" hole for the cab mounts, in the channel steel. then I placed my poly cab mounts in the channel steel, and the lift blocks on top. I can't remember the exact measurements, but I did have to trim the rear blocks to get the cab to match the body lines with the bed. Just remember not to weld the cross member in place on the frame, the welds actually weaken the frame. I bolted mine in with two 9/16" grade 5 bolts, flat washers, and lock washers. And if you don't mind drilling the sides of your radiator, all you have to do to lower the fan shroud, is trim it for the lower rad hose, and drill four mounting holes in the flanges on the sides of the rad. Oh yeah ...one more thing ....had to cut a new transfer case shift lever from a piece of 1/2" bar stock, heat and bend to shape, etch and paint

 

[junk]

93 blk lightning - How did your frame length match up? Did you have to adjust the length of your bed?

 

[93blklightning]

I cut exactly 5" out of the front of the bed. rclb has a 5" shorter wheel base the ecsb , but from the Axel back is the same . Hence cutting out of the front

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[93blklightning]

if you look at my pics, you'll see the primer on the front of my bed, on the ecsb. that's where I welded it back together. I don't know if you do a lot of body work or not, but just a tip. go slow....real slow, tack a few spots on one side, then tack the other. just keep going back and forth. use c-clamps, and ratchet straps to crib the bed together, until your done. I scabbed mine on the back side for strength. But when your welding something like this, its real important you go slow, and evenly on both sides, or it will draw... REAL BAD. then you'll have a hot mess. think of it like tightening head bolts. got to keep it even

 

[Saskredneck]

Thanks for all the info, I'm getting anxious for spring so I can get some work done, just got back from a snowmobile tour and its a brisk -42 out

 

[93blklightning]

No problem , I thought I did enough research on my project when I started . I got educated real fast. Need any more just let me know

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[riotwarrior]

As I work on this I"m still inclined to use outboard of frame mounts instead of the cross member just for ease of installation and simplicity.

Not that your way 93blklightning was wrong, just a different approach than I am taking.

In respect to this method I'm taking I may actually get away with NOT lowering fuel tank, and being mine is a 4x for off road use, that would be entirely unacceptable to me to do so.

I may have to cut floor ever so little but nothing much from my measurements so far...wait for the acid test though and watch as I set it in place!

I don't know what pictures 93blklightning is referring too as I cannot locate them. Maybe you could provide them for us to see??

Al

 

[93blklightning]

One reason I choose to add a cross member , was the rigidity you loose with body mounts. I gained a lot

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[93blklightning]

Sorry , I posted the pics in the gallery

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. Here it is

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[93blklightning]

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. Another

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