Dropping the transmission pan

gandalf

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I'm going to be changing the transmission fluid in my driveway, or maybe at the curb, and am concerned about the draining stage and the mess. My wife is VERY concerned.

The pan on the transmission pan has no drain plug. That will be upgraded to a new pan with drain plug. The best I can think of offhand is to simply start loosening the pan bolts, and let it drip into a large catchall. :puke: It will eventually stop dripping so I can go back under. But I'll still have a pan full of fluid to literally catch when the bolts come out.

Is there any way around this? Any way to avoid a transmission fluid shower? Does anyone have any secrets on this procedure?
 

sle2115

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There is no real easy way to do this! But you could cheat! If you are going to replace the pan or put a drain plug in your current pan, why not go ahead and drill a hole? If installing a drain plug in your current pan, buy the drain plug so you can tell where it has to be installed and what kind (size) of hole you need (so you don't drill one too big) then let it happen. Put a catch pan down and drill the hole. You will get some fluid on you, but you are going to by tilting the pan as well, I think you can really minimize the mess by going this route, especially if you are not going to reuse the pan. Just take your time and don't SHOVE the drill through the pan and damage internals.
 

Camarogenius

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Very good tip! Here's a couple more thoughts for you to keep in mind, first, take a screwdriver, and tap around the bottom of the pan, and find the magnet, so you don't drill through it. Every slushbox I've ever been inside has a magnet in the pan.
Second, When you go to tighten the new pan, use a 1/4 drive ratchet, and only grab the head. just snug it up. If you crank on it, I promise a leak.
 

sle2115

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Camarogenius said:
Very good tip! Here's a couple more thoughts for you to keep in mind, first, take a screwdriver, and tap around the bottom of the pan, and find the magnet, so you don't drill through it. Every slushbox I've ever been inside has a magnet in the pan.
Second, When you go to tighten the new pan, use a 1/4 drive ratchet, and only grab the head. just snug it up. If you crank on it, I promise a leak.


Yeah, good points. I have a 1/4 air ratchet (well I have two, in this case the cheap one is better) that will run trans pan, oil pan etc. bolts down to about 12-14 ft/lbs. I run them down then use a 1/4 manual ratchet to verify they are tight. I also usually use a small ball peen hammer and my vise to reverse dimple (very slightly) the bolt holes, works great. Put the ball end of the hammer on the bolt hole with the hole to be dimpled between the jaws of the vise. Then tap the other end of the ball peen (flat face) with another hammer to slightly dimple them away from the trans. When you bolt it back up, the dimple exert a little tension on the bolts, kind of like a spring lock washer. Have done oodles of trans filters and never had a leak, yet! :)
 

Mr_Roboto

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Here's what I've done every time. Take a sheetmetal screw, and run it into the pan with a cordless drill until it just cuts through and starts threading in. Now you have a "drain plug" that will let the fluid out nice and slowly without splashing. Once its empty, then you can take off the pan and replace it with your new one.

I saved one of my old pans because it has a nice flat bottom for if I ever need to take my transmission out again. I use the 4x4 pans, which have a very "un-flat" bottom and don't sit on a trans jack well.
 

94f450sd

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get an old plastic trash can lid and drill a bunch of holes in it in the middle.put it on top of your drain pan and start unbolting the pan.
 

Full Monte

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Gandalf,

I think drilling it in the exact spot you would drill for a new drain plug would work well. I put a drain plug in mine, and you can come look at where it is on the pan. I did it on the tranny at the same time I put on a Fumoto drain valve on the engine, so I ended up using the engine drain plug on the tranny.
Total cost: about 35 cents for the nut I welded inside the tranny pan. The nut was V-grooved to insure complete drainage of the pan. Works well.
Don't drill the pan just anywhere...you could drill into the tranny when the bit breaks through.
 

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