coolant changing/flushing

jimraelee

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Ive read a bit about how cavatation is a real issue with diesels. There is a CSA level that needs to be maintained to help fight cavatation. Is it better or just easier to change the fluid out like we do in gasoline cars and trucks.... open the rad drain plug, drain out old, add new coolant and water 50/50??? Or is it worth the trouble of tracking down some of those test strips and keep a bottle of the ford CSA around???

I don't have a owners manual for my 91 7.3, anyone know the recommended weight of oil. Oh shes only got 40,0193 original miles... :D I need to start watching the sales for oil and filters for this new addition, them little gm 3800 filters (about the size of sm coffee cup) wont screw on this bigger engine :rotflmao
 

argve

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Changing the coolant -

Install a flush tee in the heater hose that goes between the passengers side head and heater core - hitch up garden hose, remove radiator cap, start engine and turn on hose. Let this go like this until you have clear water coming from radiator.

Now I turn off everything, drain the rad, remove garden hose, drain the block via the block drains, blow air through the heater core backwards and then button everything up except the cap on the flush tee.

Now get some distilled water and diesel approved coolant, I have always used fleetguard brand that is not the extended drain stuff and is not pre-charged with DCA (Diesel Coolant Additive) but you can run whatever you like. System will hold around 6 gallons total (water and coolant). Refill system - enjoy. You might have to burp the system of air - to do this is fairly easy.

Loose rad cap so that it can purge out into the reservoir but not all over the top of the rad/engine. Now start truck and let run for about 20 mins then take for a short drive down the street then come back (don't shut truck off and close rad cap completely) then shut truck off and let cool completely (keep checking the reservoir and topping off as needed) - takes about 3 hours typically. After it has cooled completely check the level in the reservoir and top off if needed - then check rad level top off if needed but you shouldn't need to because it will have pulled from the reservoir during the cooling period.

Now if using the NON precharged coolant remember to add your DCA to the rad as you are filling - 2 bottles. Don't add it to the reservoir because it will take so much time to cycle that into the cooling system.

Come back a few days later and test the radiator (not reservoir) with the test strips and add in more DCA if needed but with adding in 2 bottles from the start you shouldn't need to.

Now for the oil. 15W40 is the recommended all year oil weight. You can run either synthetic or conventional motor oil - it's your choice. Will take 3 gallons with filter change. You can run either the recommended filter size or one from a 95 -97 Powerstroke powered Ford (I want to say this filter number is FL1995 but don't quote me on this - it's been quite a while since I have owned an IDI). The larger filter will fit and it gives a little more filter media comapred to the half sized stock filter they called for.
 

argve

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Oh the reason I recommend distilled water vs hose water is because distilled water doesn't have any minerals in it that can build up in the system.
 

jimraelee

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Oh the reason I recommend distilled water vs hose water is because distilled water doesn't have any minerals in it that can build up in the system.
Yea that would be good... I plan on taking this from 40k miles up to about 200kmiles if it lets me... thanks
 

Joe Mc

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Please be careful dumping anti-freeze on the ground, animals and little kids think that the deadly poison would be the perfect thing to drink.

Unless an oil-cooler or head-gasket lets go and contaminants my anti-freeze, I never change it. Not when I had Peterbilts or Freightliners and not in my Fords, they just get new water-pump lubricants and rust inhibitors every spring.
 

jimraelee

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Yes Joe... but who said anything about dumping it on the ground... I dont want a slick mess on my driveway... it goes in a old jug and back to Autozone for recycling... or even the local SOLVE collection spot...
 

2manydsls

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Changing the coolant -

Install a flush tee in the heater hose that goes between the passengers side head and heater core - hitch up garden hose, remove radiator cap, start engine and turn on hose. Let this go like this until you have clear water coming from radiator.

If you follow the above instructions, your gonna need a lot of jugs.
Ross
 

swampdigger

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Do any of you guys ever use those cooling system flush detergents? I wish I could describe it better... those Prestone kits, which come with the heater hose tee-in, or similar brand.
 

Agnem

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You should consider adding a coolant filter to your system. It's a great way to maintain the SCA's also. A WF-2071 is a good filter to use.
 

jimraelee

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How does a filter maintain your CSA level??? possibly by filtering out debris that breaks down the csa???? IDK
 

suv7734

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Depending on the filter you buy they are pre-charged with the coolant additive. You can go anywhere from 0 units and it increments up from there IE 2 units, 4 units etc.
 

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