97idi
Full Access Member
anyone have this problem? it only happens sometimes its confusing me? thanks in advance
brakes sticking?
- Thread starter 97idi
- Start date
If you can get them to stick at home, put it on a slight hill and put a block of wood a couple of inches behind the rear tire. With it sitting there stuck, loosen the two bolts that hold the master cylinder to the brake booster. If it suddenly releases, then either the pushrod adjustment coming out of the booster is too long, or there is something wrong with the booster.
If that doesn't release the brakes, you need to drive it a little bit, and feel which wheels are hotter than others, to determine which ones are dragging. If you find the rears are getting hot, I would suspect your parking brake cables are sticking. These trucks are famous for the cables rusting and sticking, and new ones are cheap at the store.
If you find one of the fronts is getting hot, you can jack the wheel up and then crack the bleeder and see if it releases. If it doesn't, I suspect your caliper is sticking. I would also suspect this if you just put new pads on the front. The old pads get thin, and the piston in the caliper rides outward for a long time, and gets rust behind it in the bore. When you take a c-clamp and push the piston back for the new pads, the piston rides over the rust and gets stuck.
If that doesn't release the brakes, you need to drive it a little bit, and feel which wheels are hotter than others, to determine which ones are dragging. If you find the rears are getting hot, I would suspect your parking brake cables are sticking. These trucks are famous for the cables rusting and sticking, and new ones are cheap at the store.
If you find one of the fronts is getting hot, you can jack the wheel up and then crack the bleeder and see if it releases. If it doesn't, I suspect your caliper is sticking. I would also suspect this if you just put new pads on the front. The old pads get thin, and the piston in the caliper rides outward for a long time, and gets rust behind it in the bore. When you take a c-clamp and push the piston back for the new pads, the piston rides over the rust and gets stuck.
87crewdually
Full Access Member
post back when you know which brakes are hanging up. I found the rubber brake hose that goes from the frame to the rear will split inside near the bend and act as a checkvalve holding on the rear brakes. This can also happen to any other brake hose and is often overlooked. If you can get the brakes to lockup simply loosen the line (first on the "rear" end then on the "frame" end)to cause the pressure to be released. If loosening the "frame" end of the hose does nothing, but loosening the "rear" end of the hose releases the brakes then you know the hose is what's holding the brakes on.
Hope this is clear.
Hope this is clear.
97idi
Full Access Member
thanks for the info guys! the weird thing is that my entire brake system is new when i restored my truck from the booster and master to lines exc.... although it feels like my rotors are worped and it feels like its the front drivers side
87crewdually
Full Access Member
May have a sticking caliber piston if it's front d/s.
That's for sure. I went through all sorts of grief before I changed the cables to each rear brake. I non contact IR thermometer helps pinpoint which drum/rotor is the hottest as they all get hot when running.
97idi
Full Access Member
when i have time ill check the temps exc exc but my cables are new because i had one break and had a roll away once!!! the driver door got ripped off then smashed into my neighbors van and put it on its side now i never leave my truck running without something behind the wheel
