Auxiliary trans cooler lines

LCAM-01XA

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Filter is not plugged, I replace it like twice a year and I cut it apart and inspect it, every time it shows there was no need yet for replacing it. But a plugged filter is another reason why I want the bypass line, well I can also run a different filter (22 to 24 psi pop-off on the built-in bypass) but that one is 20 microns and I'd much rather have my 6-micron one. So when I take a gander over to the stealership parts counter (whenever that may be), is there a specific name they'll have for that part? Or just ask for a "transmission cooler bypass line" for, say, a 2000 F350 2wd DRW w/ the PSD engine?
 

trackspeeder

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I wish i had a part number for you.

You can use that description. or just say 99-03 4R100 bypass. They should be able to hand that part over to you. :D
 

Oog

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Guys, if I repeat something that's been said, I apologize, but there is some misinformation here.

1. Fuel hose in place of oil cooler hose won't last very long. Don't believe me? Try it. Fuel hose isn't meant for the heat given off by the fluid. After a short amount of time it'll get harder, as well as leak. Trans oil cooler line will not. (Source: personal experience, as well as years of working on transmissions).

2. Check valve in cooler lines: Personally, the only place that they may need to be used is Chrysler products that flow in Neutral, and not park. Anything else that flows fluid in Park doesn't need a check valve, as the 10-15 seconds you hang out idling after starting the engine, fluid is refilled everywhere where it may have drained from. No, it does not drain the torque converter. (if it did, a drain and fill would net 15qts of fluid, not only 4 or so)

Jeep/Dodge/Chryslers do NOT flow fluid through the cooler in Park, and therefore need a check valve (most are plastic from the factory, ***?) but I have removed many of them and told the customer to start the vehicle in Park, put it in Neutral for 15 seconds first start in the morning, and then don't worry about it during the day. On the absolutely hairbrained space cadet customers, I simply install a metal check valve that cannot melt and stop up the cooler lines.

BTW: an excellent source for large 3/8" relatively flat, long tranny coolers is from 2005(?) Dodge Grand Caravans. Make sure the donor you get it from has relatively clean trans fluid to protect from potential contamination. Also, backflush it about 6 times before installation. Last thing: Any and every single rebuilt transmission gets the factory radiator cooler bypassed or a new radiator installed to prevent the crap that's in the factory cooler from being reintroduced into a fresh rebuild.

Not ******' on anyone's shoes or calling people idiots, but just some slight misinformation up in this biznatch. I may also have been drinking, so there may be slight dyslexic tendencies in my post.
 

LCAM-01XA

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trackspeeder said:
I wish i had a part number for you.

You can use that description. or just say 99-03 4R100 bypass. They should be able to hand that part over to you. :D
OK, in that case when I get the thing I will necromance this thread and post the part number. Tho it may be a while, got a few other project of higher priority first...

iluvtruenos said:
Guys, if I repeat something that's been said, I apologize, but there is some misinformation here.
Interestingly enough, if you compare Goodyear's SAE 30R7 (50psi fuel/oil) hose with their generic SAE J1532 (TOC) hose it turns out their construction is identical: chemigum (nitrile, NBR) inner tube, then 2-spyral synthetic reinforcement, then hypalon (CSM) outer cover. Similar operating temps too, -40F to about 250F. The only difference that I can find is the working pressure, 30R7 being up to 50psi (250 burst) and the J1532 being 250psi (1000 burst). So my point is, when one buys TOC hose from a parts store, it's pretty much anyone's guess what kind of hose it actually is...
 

LCAM-01XA

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For those who want to upgrade to 3/8" lines the easy way. Stop by your favorite Ford dealer and get the 98 E4OD bypass or 99 and up 4R100 bypass (same part). If you can get a used part it can be rebuilt using a Sonnax rebuild kit.
This is a bolt on part, no drilling, or cussing needed. Well maybe cussing. most Ford's need that. :D

OK, the bypass tube assembly in question has been acquired. It came from a '97 or '98 (depending on the month, didn't pay much attention to that) E4OD truck, and definitely has the 3/8" lines. This is the Sonnax repair kit you mentioned, right?
http://www.sonnax.com/product-lines/high-performance-transmission/parts/3159

What I found odd was that the return (rear) port didn't have a sealing washer between the banjo and the transmission case, only between the banjo and the hollow fitting for the return line. On the other hand the converter discharge (front) port has 2 of said sealing washers, one between the banjo and the transmission case, and the other between banjo and bolt head. Checked several trucks, all were like that. The Sonnax pictures also only show 1 sealing washer on the rear banjo. Should I place a suitable-size copper washer (or a spare factory rear fitting seal) between the rear banjo and the transmission case as a safety precaution? I can't see its presence hurting anything, and will hopefully remedy any surface corrosion that may have occurred on my transmission case over the years...
 

trackspeeder

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OK, the bypass tube assembly in question has been acquired. It came from a '97 or '98 (depending on the month, didn't pay much attention to that) E4OD truck, and definitely has the 3/8" lines. This is the Sonnax repair kit you mentioned, right?
http://www.sonnax.com/product-lines/high-performance-transmission/parts/3159

What I found odd was that the return (rear) port didn't have a sealing washer between the banjo and the transmission case, only between the banjo and the hollow fitting for the return line. On the other hand the converter discharge (front) port has 2 of said sealing washers, one between the banjo and the transmission case, and the other between banjo and bolt head. Checked several trucks, all were like that. The Sonnax pictures also only show 1 sealing washer on the rear banjo. Should I place a suitable-size copper washer (or a spare factory rear fitting seal) between the rear banjo and the transmission case as a safety precaution? I can't see its presence hurting anything, and will hopefully remedy any surface corrosion that may have occurred on my transmission case over the years...


I cant see an extra washer hurting anything.

That is the Sonnax rebuild kit.:Thumbs Up
 
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