Another ignition switch thread...

[Diesel JD]

So I don't know if my problem is the electric switch or the actuator/lock cylinder or whatever but My truck will not fire the starter from turning the key as it should, it will, however let me put the key to the "on" position and jump the starter solenoid under the hood. Anybody know how to tell? How big of a headache is it to replace either one? Should I just go ahead and do both parts at the same time? Can anyone give specific instructions?? I would really appreciate it guys!

 

[towcat]

jd-
before panicking, double check the switch itself to make sure the bolts locking down the switch are tight and while you're down there, do a visual on the switch itself to make sure the plastic portion of the switch is not seperating from the pot metal base.

 

[Diesel JD]

Hey Calvin where exactly is this thing bolted to the steering column? It was just to dark to see very well tonight. Thanks for the quick response.

 

[gonecrazyi]

Jd, I had the same problem with my 89. It turned out that the rod going from the key to the small box had bent and was not fully engaging or disingaging. On my 89 the box was bolted to the steering column behind the dash. I think that its in the same place as the early 80s trucks. If you remove the bolts that hold the column to the dash, everything should drop down and be visible. Youll see a rod going from the steerong region to a small box. The box, if i remember right, can be moved to adjust for rod travel. If anything you can do what I did till I fixed the problem. I just wired a push button to the fender relay and fired it from inside the truck. I actually like this better because I could hit the starter a lot quicker then using the key.

 

[HammerDown]

JD, mine was acting up like yours...I moved the ign switch (bolted) down on the column up^ the width of a pencil mark and presto...starts everytime now!

 

[LCAM-01XA]

JD, the ignition switch lives under the dash, on top of the steering column - look at that massive aluminum brace the column is bolted down onto, the switch is a bit further down from that on the opposite side of the column, and indeed pretty hard to see, but not really hard to get to with tools and bare hands.

 

[Diesel JD]

Thanks for the quick responses everybody, good stuff. What if you have to replace that rod? It gets harder then I imagine. Also I'm going to assume its not the electrical part of the ign. switch since I can jump the relay and get it to go. If it were dead wouldn't I be just stuck until I fixed or bypassed it?(IE no juice to the FSS)?

 

[LCAM-01XA]

JD, the ignition switch has slots, and not round holes, what happens is with time and miles the bolts that hold the switch to the column loosen up allowing the switch to slide down the column a tiny bit, we're talking 1/8" or so, so now at least in theory you'll have to turn the key more to get the rod to slide down those extra 1/8" to hit the "start" position of the switch - problem is that the rod physically cannot move that much, so you max out its travel at what happens to be "run", which is enough to open your FSS and power all electrics except trigger the starter (as it really ain't supposed to, that's why you got your "start" position). In reality your switch works just fine tis just that you can no longer engage it properly through the rod. If you slide the switch in its slots up the column a bit and tighten it there, I will not be surprised at all if that results in you getting back your "start" position up at the thumbler, and everything working good. Starting to make some sense now, or still clear as mud?

For replacing the rod I think you need to pull the steering wheel, and it goes downhill from there. But, like I said, try moving the switch up the column first.

 

[Diesel JD]

Ok guys here's what happened. Turns out it is the travel of the rod and not the switch. The rod is bent and even with moving the switch as far up or down as the slots will allow I cannot push the switch to the start position. I have a good extra steering column from an IDI brother here at the house which is actually for a manual so should be good since I now have a T18. The rod and cylinder seem a lot better on that column. Bad news is I'm going to have to pull the steering wheel to switch it over. How does it come off? I also need to pull the boot at the bottom of the column to switch it over. Amazingly it unbolted easily, but I'm not seeing how it can be slid off the steering column bottom end especially with that auto tranny lkickdown linkage in the way. It also doesn't look like the endpiece at the bottom of the manual column where the bolt for the steering shaft is extends far enough out from the column to actually slide the bolt through...but maybe it does. Gonna tackle this later this morning any help is appreciated guys, thanks in advance.

 

[datkinsonsr]

I had simmilar issues with mine awhile back. My problem was at the top of the rod where a pot metal piece connects the rod to the key tumbler. It breaks fairly easily over time. You have to go in through the top of the steering column top get to it. Was not very difficult to do on my tilt column. The parts were very cheap, about $10 at Ford. Some time back, somebody took photos of this job and posted it. Got my info from them. Just go carefully.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

JD, on your question about the steering wheel - you have to open it up (screws on the back side), then remove the large center nut, and then use a puller to break it loose from the shaft. The regular jaw-type puller don't work on those things, but you can rent the proper puller from AutoZone or another parts store.