A couple little issues

[flareside_thun]

Hey all, I've got a few different things I need help with in order to get my new truck roadworthy(in my terms). First off, My tach doesn't work...nothin on the back side of the cluster is causing that so I need to know what to look for in the engine compartment. Second, my fuel gauge goes WAY past full on the front tank, and only on the front tank. Third, my brake pedal has a really firm feel to it but doesn't "stop for about 3 seconds...at that point you can feel the rear brakes catch harder than chit. Trying to decide if it is a bad master or booster.....That's it for now....If I can think of anything else, I'll post it up. Thanks.

 

[93f250idi]

Tach sensor is on the the ip timing cover. Brakes may be because of vacuum pump.

 

[flareside_thun]

I've got great vacuum at the booster hose. Ah ya! Dangit I forgot about that tach sensor...dangit..thanks!

 

[redneckaggie]

how great because i can tell you from experiance that if it dont get you to 21 in hg within a few seconds and hold it then you will notice if that checks out then i would say booster because master will normally cause a mushy pedal.

 

[93f250idi]

No problem. If it wasn't for this site helping me out I wouldn't of been of help to you.

 

[flareside_thun]

Thanks fellas...no idea about the fuel sending unit eh?

EDIT: What's the difference between these two....I mean, obviously rod size but how do you determine which one you need?

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...done_3823369-P_250_R|GRPBRHYAMS_1454315274___

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...done_3823466-P_250_R|GRPBRHYAMS_1454290106___

 

[redneckaggie]

I think the fuel gauges are the same as the rest of the factory gauges... $H!T

Mine does the same thing and i know there was somebody at one time that modded thier sending units to work correctly but I have never worried to much about it my rear gauge doesnt even work.

 

[subway]

before you go nuts with thowing parts at it are you sure that the back brakes are adjusted propery. they are known for driftoung out of adjustment.

fuel tank shooting past full is normal for these year trucks. both mine do and hold there for miles. until it starts to drop normally then after half tank they drop twice as quick. really annoying that they are not a linear drop to give the impression you are getting great miliage if you were to just be test driving the truck new.

 

[jim x 3]

Thanks fellas...no idea about the fuel sending unit eh?

Flare, Your fuel gauge reads more than F because the variable resistor in the tank sending unit has rubbed enuf to create an open circuit (or there could be a broken wire, but less likely).

See: http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=40664

Regards,

 

[flareside_thun]

before you go nuts with thowing parts at it are you sure that the back brakes are adjusted propery. they are known for driftoung out of adjustment.

fuel tank shooting past full is normal for these year trucks. both mine do and hold there for miles. until it starts to drop normally then after half tank they drop twice as quick. really annoying that they are not a linear drop to give the impression you are getting great miliage if you were to just be test driving the truck new.

Thanks for your thoughts on the brakes...I'll check it out. What I mean by way past full is that there's a gallon of diesel fuel in the tank currently and that's where the needle is regardless.

Flare, Your fuel gauge reads more than F because the variable resistor in the tank sending unit has rubbed enuf to create an open circuit (or there could be a broken wire, but less likely).

See: http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=40664

Regards,

Thanks Jim.....

 

[subway]

oh, well then i would completely agree with jim. those fuel sending units are pricey and only availible from ford last i checked. it cost me i bit under 200 to fix the rear tank. if i had to do it over again i would do this.
http://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gallery/displayalbum.php?&userid=170072&albumid=16937

 

[flareside_thun]

Yea, I think I'm gonna give that a shot....I called around and only one person could get em from an obsolete warehouse...155 bucks...OUCH

 

[flareside_thun]

I think my brake issue is vacuum pump also now.....brakes work fine at lower R's but crappy at higher R's/speed. Is it possible the vacuum pump is cavitating?

 

[icanfixall]

The vacuum pump wont cavitate but... It works turning either direction... All it does is suck... Be careful when replacing it. You need a special pulley puller. Any autoparts store will rent you one. Its called a power steering pulley puller. Don't try to remove the pulley by the outer V belt rim. That will bend it and ruin it. You need to attach the puller to the center area and press thru the shaft. Its really easy to do. I have used lots of heat on a bad pump to remove the pulley before. Works ok but not as easy as the correct puller does. Who really cares about burning up a bearing seal on a pump that crapped the bed..... Your hard brake issue might be a loose belt. Your posting states the brakes seem to work well at low rpm but not so good at higher rpm. Thats kinda a slipping belt issue too. I don't really think you need a new brake booster but the pumps do wear out. Also they can be oiled after a long use. They need to be removed from the motor and a bolt is found on the back. Just remove it and drain out the smelly oil and refill with any good oil. Some like synthetic and some use 90 wt. Use what you have...

 

[flareside_thun]

Hm, was not aware of the vacuum pump oilchange lol. Thanks...In the process of swapping X-cases out as we speak...better get back to it. The weather is too nice here to waste it!