89Laredo
Underemployed
83 F250, rear tank. AFAIK 85+ got the sending units like yours. They have a bigger flange and quick connect lines. I should look at my front one too and see if it has a sock or a showerhead.
6.9 IDI fuel system build
- Thread starter 8769bigred
- Start date
89Laredo
Underemployed
Yeah showerhead isn't gonna work, and the tube on this sender is 3/8 so I can't use the original strainer.
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It's been a while since I dropped my tanks but I thought the pickup tube was supposed to be 3/8 O.D. because I had read some people would use 3/8 fuel hose instead of the showerhead. Just make two or three upside down "V" cuts in the end of the hose to ensure flow.
8769bigred
Registered User
Iv spent the last two days designing this unit and it is finally taking shape.
this is an airdog raptor 100 GPH fuel pump. It has an adjustable regulator 8-30 PSI. This is the main reason I chose this pump was its low PSI. There’s lots of other pumps people have used for these trucks with varying levels of success. Most use a high flow return regulator. I wanted to try and avoid this. The IDI pump needs 6.5 PSI of feed pressure.
The folks at airbog said the pump will do 6 PSI and they have lots of customers running them on the old Chevy IDI trucks which use the same DB2 pump.
the timing advanced on the DB2 is effected by the inlet pressure of the injection pump so it is important to hit the numbers as close as possible from what I have read.
I have a 20 micron inlet filter. Then a 10 micron cat water separator to a 2 micron fuel filter. The flirtation is definitely over kill, but it that’s ok.
I have mounted the pump and filter set up on the passenger side frame rail. I got it back towards the bed as far as I could to avoid the frame flex. I mounted the filter pump set up on rubber bushings. I’m hoping this will help absorb any frame movement. The fuel lines will run over the cab crossmember to the switching valve and engine.
Im not sure how this will work out. It’s definitely a more expensive and labor intensive process than other options. If it works without a high flow regulator though it will be absolutely worth it .
this is an airdog raptor 100 GPH fuel pump. It has an adjustable regulator 8-30 PSI. This is the main reason I chose this pump was its low PSI. There’s lots of other pumps people have used for these trucks with varying levels of success. Most use a high flow return regulator. I wanted to try and avoid this. The IDI pump needs 6.5 PSI of feed pressure.
The folks at airbog said the pump will do 6 PSI and they have lots of customers running them on the old Chevy IDI trucks which use the same DB2 pump.
the timing advanced on the DB2 is effected by the inlet pressure of the injection pump so it is important to hit the numbers as close as possible from what I have read.
I have a 20 micron inlet filter. Then a 10 micron cat water separator to a 2 micron fuel filter. The flirtation is definitely over kill, but it that’s ok.
I have mounted the pump and filter set up on the passenger side frame rail. I got it back towards the bed as far as I could to avoid the frame flex. I mounted the filter pump set up on rubber bushings. I’m hoping this will help absorb any frame movement. The fuel lines will run over the cab crossmember to the switching valve and engine.
Im not sure how this will work out. It’s definitely a more expensive and labor intensive process than other options. If it works without a high flow regulator though it will be absolutely worth it .
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8769bigred
Registered User
89Laredo
Underemployed
Hopefully last time Ill hijack this thread but figured I would put some more info since we already started talking about it.
83-84 uses a different tank and sender. The sender hole in both tanks is physically smaller and not compatible with 85+ senders.
Unless I am doing something wrong, the "showerhead" will not fit in either tank. The rear tank had a round filter in it, and the suction tube was 5/16, the front tank had a chunk of hose with a 3/8 suction tube. The new T Rex rear sender is a 3/8 tube so the factory filter will not fit. I havent tried it, but looks like a filter from a 73-79 ford is what you need, I ended up just sticking a piece of hose onto it.
83-84 uses a different tank and sender. The sender hole in both tanks is physically smaller and not compatible with 85+ senders.
Unless I am doing something wrong, the "showerhead" will not fit in either tank. The rear tank had a round filter in it, and the suction tube was 5/16, the front tank had a chunk of hose with a 3/8 suction tube. The new T Rex rear sender is a 3/8 tube so the factory filter will not fit. I havent tried it, but looks like a filter from a 73-79 ford is what you need, I ended up just sticking a piece of hose onto it.
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69NamedRoy
Registered User
Awesome write-up, thanks! May I ask what product you used to spray the frame? Looks great.
8769bigred
Registered User
@89Laredo would it be possible to install new tanks in with some slight modifications? Obviously you already purchased these parts for these tanks but the new tanks are relatively cheap. About 350$ shipped for a pair from summit racing
8769bigred
Registered User
I cleaned the rust and rubber under coating off then treated with Osphos and then I painted it with Ace Hardware store brand enamel paint. I think stone gray was the color. I can get some pictures of the cans.
89Laredo
Underemployed
AFAIK they would just bolt in no problem. I deleted the front tank and this is a new F1C rear tank. The original plan was to reuse my old sender just for the gauge and put a sump in, but the sump I had bought was too big for the tank and I figured the gauge sender would be junk anyway so I just bought a new sender and will use the factory routing. Knowing what I know now, I might have bought an 85+ tank instead, but this will work fine.
