1988 F250 Needs Help

[Knight_3000]

Hello All I am new to this Group And I am trying to get Help repairing my F250 and 1 of the Members from this Group is also a member of another group that has been helping me out.. He directed me here...

This is a copy and paste of My posts from the Other forum

Great News I got a stand and a Hoist a while back And Finally got the Engine out of the Truck Yesterday

An update of the Problems I had was total Compression loss on Cyl#7 and near complete loss on #1 (front and rear pass side Bank) got engine out and Pulled head on right side of engine Discovered MINOR(Very Light But u can feel it) Scoring in the wall of Cylinder 7 (Likely a Broken Ring) And a Leaking Intake Valve I have not torn down the head yet (cant find my VS spring Comp) to See for sure why it is Leaking

Cylinder 1 does not Have anything that is standing out but Cylinder 1,3,and 5 All have minor Exhaust valve Leaks (took overnight for it to appear with a fluid test) and a couple of the Precombustion chambers Have some Minor cracking on the edges of the Holes

So far at this Point it looks as though I may have lucked out And I will be able to Get away with a Valve job and a re-ring Kit as far as Major issues Go

I have not yet Pulled the Drivers side head off But I do not expect to find Much wrong in there Beyond Maybe a few Leaky Valves and some Carbon Buildup


SO if any of you guys Happen to have a Fresh remand Injection Pump Configured for a N/A Setup and Be in need of an Injection Pump for a turbo IDI I would be willing to trade even Up

Thanks More to Come As I can get a Few Pics taken

AND 2nd UpDate

UPDATE 1988 f250 7.3 diesel NEEDS HELP!!!!!
OK update I finished tearing down the Engine today

Cylinder 7 Piston had a chunk Missing out of the Bottom side of the ring Lands between the top ring and the oil ring and based on the fact that there were No pieces and the surface where the Chunk Used to be was Virtually Polished Smooth I suspect It happened at some point during the Trip between Arizona and Ohio when I moved So that combined with the leaky Intake valve would explain the Total compression loss on #7

Cylinder #1 Piston Has some cracked Ring lands and the Rings were Basically froze in the Piston(this cylinder read about 110-120psi on comp test)

all other cylinders were in Great shape with the exception of a few sticky rings and some Carbon buildup around them

Cylinder 7 does have some Marks in it from what appears to have been a piston ring chattering against it so I am gonna Carefully Hone it out Just enough to smooth things out and Put it back together


New question
Do any of you guys have a few standard Bore 7.3 pistons Laying around, the top and bottom Compression rings appear to be the same thickness on all of the Pistons

thanks and More to follow

AND a Link to the Post if U want to see it http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/802048-1988-f250-7-3-diesel-needs-help-3.html


Thanks and any help I can get would be Great As I am unemployed and looking with Little success... I am actually Looking at going back to School

 

[rjjp]

Watch it on cylinder 7 when your honing it, numbers7 and 8 are bored slightly over from the factory to accommodate for the cdr going bad and letting oil get into them.

 

[Knight_3000]

Watch it on cylinder 7 when your honing it, numbers7 and 8 are bored slightly over from the factory to accommodate for the cdr going bad and letting oil get into them.

Please Explain... And i saw Ur signature I need 2 Pistons cylinders 1 and 7

thanks

 

[rjjp]

I read it on here, I do believe that Mel (agnem) posted it, the cdr is our version of a pcv, and when it dies it lets oil into the intake which usually goes into cylinders 7 and 8, our engines will treat oil as fuel and burn it so the folks at international make those two slightly larger for the extra "fuel". And the only diesel that I have anymore is my 92, I don't have any spare engine parts, sorry.

 

[Knight_3000]

I read it on here, I do believe that Mel (agnem) posted it, the cdr is our version of a pcv, and when it dies it lets oil into the intake which usually goes into cylinders 7 and 8, our engines will treat oil as fuel and burn it so the folks at international make those two slightly larger for the extra "fuel". And the only diesel that I have anymore is my 92, I don't have any spare engine parts, sorry.

so ur talkin the Crankcase depression regulator right??? and How Much slightly Larger are we talkin?? cuz looking at what I am looking at my Cylinder damage I may only have to go the thickness Of a sheet of typing paper Possibly a hair more But it Looks as though there was a Piston ring that had Chattered up and down the cylinder wall its Not very deep so I should Be able to save it without going to the Next size up in Pistons... Honestly It is almost Light enough I am about tempted to just put a New piston and rings In it and Just run it But I dont wanna take the risk of Having to do this Again,,, Its a Hell of alot of work getting that engine out of there

 

[rjjp]

hmmm, maybe use a ball hone and just dress it? That way you would only take off the minimum amount of metal.

 

[Knight_3000]

hmmm, maybe use a ball hone and just dress it? That way you would only take off the minimum amount of metal.

Nah Its A bit deeper than a Ball hone will do and its all on the Lower survace of the Cylinder I have a Machine shop grade Sunnen 4 stone Cylinder hone I will use...... Now I know I will haveto remove the Piston Squirters But This is My first Diesel of this Size Do I HAVE to remove the Crank b4 I dress them cylinders or Can i do it with the crank installed and just be careful with it (I'll wet hone it, as usual) I only ask because I am trying to Save Money and If I don't have to Pull the Crank I won't (don't wanna have to replace mains) And to be honest I am probably gonna reuse the rod bearings too ..... Unless By some Miracle I am actually able to find a Job in the next few days at which Point I will let it sit till I have Money and I will either Buy a Complete Rering Kit and a set of Main Bearings or a Master set and do the Whole thing

 

[OLDBULL8]

You sure want to look at #7-#8 cyls. closely they are prone to cavitation (wall pin holes) Hope you have been keeping the SCA up in the coolant. You say honeing out to paper thin, thats .004 and that doubles opening the bore up actually .008, much more than that may cause piston slap or excessive blowby. The 7.3 is just a 6.9 bored out so the walls are pretty thin, thats why they are prone to cavitation. .020 oversize would be max without sleeving them, as others have pointed out, then you would have to go to an oversize piston. A new engine has only .002 to .0035 piston clearance. Just some info you may or may not know.

Some where in this OB forum or TDS site , there was said that you have to have a special tool to reinstall the squirters. Someone may chime in on that.

 

[OLDBULL8]

Searched the OB nothing on the Squirters (cooling jets) here. Searched the TDS and found 1 but nothing on the tool, but it was said to use a new jet and locktite it in.

 

[OLDBULL8]

Your machinist is correct. the pressed in oil coolers are not reusable and require a special tool to install. Check with IH for replacements as I don't think Ford has them anymore.

Searched by (cooling jets) lots of posts on them. That is one response.

I see lots of guys reviewing this thread. Any suggestion?

 

[THECACKLER]

Run the Turbo pump. I don't think that 7.3 Piston bolt-in Squirters need a tool to align them, just the 6.9's to aim them correctly. The 7.3's are held in with a Special "Patch Bolt". I'd say drop the crank out to make it safer. Check and re-use the Mains if they look good. The Factory Service Manual states that the Ball Hone is the one to use for a re-ring job. Pistons are sized "A" or "B" from the factory and the size is stamped on the Oil Pan rail. The #7 & 8 piston to cylinder clearance is sized 0.0005" larger (a half of one thousandth) than the other six. I would get the bores cleaned up and buy one set of rings from Rock Auto or whoever and use them to check your bores. Top ring end gap high limit is 0.045" and the Skirt clearance high limit is 0.0085" (eight and a half). Get the heads magna-fluxed paying attention to the areas around and between the valve seats. The Pre-cups can be run with cracks but not if they extend beyond the fire ring. New heads can be had but do anything you can to save that block. I'm building a 7.3 right now and and it's not cheap. I had hoped to get away with rings and a VJ but no such luck. You might just be able to find a drop-in engine locally cheaper than a set of rings and gaskets(~$600).
Good luck on your Job search. My wife and I are in the same boat. I think it's getting a little better out there as life goes on, but it's taking it's sweet time.

 

[Knight_3000]

You sure want to look at #7-#8 cyls. closely they are prone to cavitation (wall pin holes) Hope you have been keeping the SCA up in the coolant. You say honeing out to paper thin, thats .004 and that doubles opening the bore up actually .008, much more than that may cause piston slap or excessive blowby. The 7.3 is just a 6.9 bored out so the walls are pretty thin, thats why they are prone to cavitation. .020 oversize would be max without sleeving them, as others have pointed out, then you would have to go to an oversize piston. A new engine has only .002 to .0035 piston clearance. Just some info you may or may not know.

R u Planning on coming to Mansfield any time soon If so U are more than Welcome to drop by and take a look at what I am dealing with I have tried to take a few Pics but with the Angle they Look like crap and really (I feel) do not represent very well what I am dealing with ...

as far as the Coolant When I first got the truck 3 years ago I did a complete flush and was running straight water with "diesel water wetter" corrosion Inhibitor and additive for about a year, and Immediately Prior to My move to Ohio I drained it and Switched to a 50/50 Mix of Traditional Green Antifreeze and water so the Antifreeze was Fresh and was only actually run in the truck about 6 months before the Engine stopped running well enough to drive the truck has actually been Parked in my Driveway the past 2 years

 

[icanfixall]

The only block that requires a tool to install the piston oil squirters in the early 6.9.. All other blocks have the bolt in squirters. Don't think about using any grade bolt if you misplace one either. They are a special material and have some factory loctite on them. This is noplace you want something to fall out... A 7.3 block can be sleeved down to a 6.9. Then it will never cavitate...

 

[THECACKLER]

Not to Hijack the thread, but When reusing the "patch bolts", what thread locker is recommended?

 

[Knight_3000]

MASSIVE UPDATE..... I know it's Been a while.....

Ok I started College in July, Been working with the left over funds from the Grants and loans(and a tax return check from a year I missed).... But anyways I finally have an engine for my truck it ran me 550 bucks so I got a decent deal on it and it has a 30 day warranty on it(salvage yard special). It is my intention to have it in the truck and running over the next few days.

If there are any members in the Mansfield, OH area that do not mind coming over and lending a hand I have all of the tools needed to do the project (I have Plenty of sodas too Plus I can use an extra set of arms to assist me in lifting that ZF S5-42 5 Spd back into place (That thing is heavy without a Trans Jack )

By the way, If any of you happen to have Either a 3:55 Gear for a Dana 60 front axle(Ford style D60) or a 4:10 for a 10.25 Ford Sterling that you are willing to get rid of cheap I can Use it...Thanks