Good to know. Is there any thread on here about all details, just for my own knowledge would like to read about it further. You’ve peaked my interest!
What do programmers (aka tuners correct?) sell for? Guess I’m going to look into that FRX and possibly never look back
Thanks you guys, I’m going to look into those suggestions. Just so I know what is P.I.S. ?
I’ve always steered away from the chips as when I see people who ruined theirs motors it’s been attributed to chips and this truck is my work truck hauling tools/materials/trailers and can’t risk any...
hi all, im getting to the point of needing new split shot injectors for my 2002 PS. I got to looking around on here and found some old threads but wanted to know if there was a more updated list of shops/people to buy from? just looking for stock AD codes.
Thanks I do catch that there are other ways around but trying to get this working for my wife as it would be easier than having her use ether until I get her car fixed. I threw in a set of new motorcraft plugs so they are brand new which is making me question harness.
I eliminated all control...
Fuel line returns,caps and injectors less than a year old but I’ll have a look but I’m pretty sure I don’t have air intrusion. I haven’t really had any issues with it this past year until now. Before this all happened it’d start in a millisecond in middle of winter. I live in Oregon so it gets...
for what its worth plugs are new. i think all in all its leading me to making a new harness. couldnt hurt anyhow. i havent really tried cycling them longer than 10 sec. in fear of burning them out.
i will remove WTS tomorrow to rule out.
with multi meter im touching each large post and i get battery voltage between the two points when they are grounded out, when i manually trigger relay voltage drops meaning in theory (based on my understanding) that power is then flowing to plugs but...
and also to answer someone else i did try initially and intermittently to just the two large posts (input and output sides) with a large set of pliers and got no heat but did get the single latching click on and off. and this remained constant on multiple relays.
voltage drop test shows 12.47v...
the 2 green wires are my constant hots to replace the burned out yellow ones that come off starter solenoid on passenger fender (with fusible links between starter solenoid and glow plug relay) they melted at connector. ill eliminate WTS light just to see. I have tried the bypass including the...
i agree with you. however just to rule it out ive now tried 3 other "new relays" all were from orileys so i know their parts can be questionable but id like to think that at least one of the 3 wouldnt be bad out of the box and that i wouldnt be getting the same symptom despite replacing relays...
well i went ahead and disconnected the rest of the the wires from black controller box to relay posts. i now have a truck that will crank over as it should/when it should. grounds all look good and when it cranks it cranks with power, not all slow. i have voltage to main input and when i...
correction on what i said that red wire (+) to push button--------push button is indeed wired to ground i just mix matched my words around. just to clarify.
Thanks guys. So this morning I realized that it will crank over but only when I’m holding push button down so there must be some wiring I did wrong somewhere as was mentioned. I checked fuses and everything looked fine but even if I glow my plugs and crank truck at end of cycle it doesn’t start...
I am currently at a loss at this point.......
i had a random no start issue when making a run to the store, came back out with groceries and wouldnt crank over. had son bring me some extra batteries and it started right up and we drove home.
the next day i had a dead battery again and found...
Well macrobb that was more what I was looking for.
The marking and returning things to past adjustments is kind of common practice when taking things apart. In my reading and searching I’ve always found calibration was needed and though that is maybe more certain I’d like to learn how to take...
Well I found a place that will calibrate it for $150-250 including some inspection to make sure it doesn’t ruin testing equipment but if it ruins something the cost is on me I already have one disassembled at home (to learn basically) it wasn’t all that hard or complex but I’m curious though...
True, I’m aware of that. I figured I’d have Oregon Fuel Injection calibrate it. I’d be interested in knowing how much something like that costs, Haven’t called them to inquire yet but I’m about to get the ball rolling here soon.
Alright. Thanks for the quick responses. I grabbed two of the nicest ones I could find. The kit I bought is just a complete seal kit o-rings, gaskets, bushings and some small hard parts (pins and clips) is there a more complete kit I could use? Going to tear one down just for education purposes...
Ok. And as far as automatic to manual applications that doesn’t matter so much? Or does it? The one with the red badge was an automatic as it had the variable vacuum switch though I grabbed it for my other truck before photo. Thanks
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