I don’t know about the dorman version but I paid for the aftermarket one on eBay a few years ago just after they came on the market. It’s been running fine for the last few years and it was plug and play.
https://www.oilburners.net/threads/tank-selector-unit.86743/post-1041963...
If you don’t have a resolution yet, I’ve got a short wide original ford radiator that I took off an ‘85 6.9 truck years ago. It wasn’t leaking then and it’s been in dry storage since. The outside of the radiator looks nearly perfect, no signs of leaking tubes or damaged fins. I never had it...
Hot dip galvanizing would be an excellent choice. I don’t know what it costs these days but 20 odd years ago down here in central Texas there was a place that was doing it for $.30/lb with a $100 minimum. Their tank wasn’t big enough to do an entire frame but I used them to do all the trim...
I’d go with what @no mufflers suggested. Laying beads to fix wear spots is a very common technique. It’s done on all kind of shafts that have been worn too much. In particular it’s done to crankshafts all the time. Future cracking issues can be mitigated by pre and post heating the areas to...
Go on eBay and get one of the Ford Service manual CDs that covers your year. It will have all the diagnostic/troubleshooting plans as well as all the wiring diagrams for the entire truck.
Nvrmnd, I didn't notice what forum I was in, I thought it was the truck in your sig.
You have the 3G in a powerstroke w/ an internal regulator. I would suspect the GP controller first. Disconnect it and see if the drain goes away.
Have you tested the regulator or at least checked the plug there? Your regulator is external to the alt unless you have converted to the 3G alternator.
Disconnect the heavy wire going to the GP controller to see if that eliminates your current draw. If it does, then your GP controller is bad.
Factory Turbo trucks would make 8-10 psi. ATS kits made 10-15 depending on how much the fuel was turned up.
As for welding the nipple on, it may be easier to silver solder or gas weld on such thin material but if you’re good at it welding will work fine too.
What idi bronco describes is what I'm familiar with on ATS and factory turbo trucks. I know ATS used that special CDR valve cover that was originally an IH part as part of their kit but the few that I've seen have a moulded rubber hose that goes from a nipple on the intake casting to a nipple on...
Banks and ATS each always claimed their turbo systems added about 50% more hp and torque to the wheels over stock and often published Dyno graphs purporting to show that. The ford factory system was basically a detuned ATS system with virtually no increase in fuel delivery. It had to be detuned...
There may be a spacer between the flexplate and crank that has to be removed if going from auto to manual also. I'm not sure if this is true on the c6 like it is on the later e4od but maybe someone else can clarify.
I really like that GlowShift offers a specific pillar pod for the '91 and older trucks up to 4 gauges on the pillar. I don't think anyone else offers one at all and it so nice to actually have one that fits rather than trying to mash the OBS one into place on the older pillars. I don't know...
Looks very nice, be sure to get a heat shield sock for your slave cylinder, turbo trucks are known for cooking these after a few years of higher than normal egts.
For the brake controller, it would depend on how someone wired it in. If your truck came with the factory tow pkg then the chassis wiring was setup to have a controller added without affecting any circuit in the truck. If it was added without that package then it could possibly be contributing...
When mine was behaving similarly it turned out to be an internal issue with the power circuit inside the PCM. The main processor was losing power intermitantly. Mine would randomly, occasionally blip off and then come back until it finally got really bad and would stumble and restart and then...
On the SuperDuty trucks I'm pretty sure there is a pre installed circuit/blunt cut wire in your under dash harness that you can connect to one of the upfitter switches or any switch really to create high idle. There's plenty of information about that wire and how to connect it via google. You...
There’s a guy on here that did a single piece drive shaft for one of his customers in a truck similar to yours. You can read what he did and how it came out in the link. I think the customer may have had to change the angle due to some minor vibrations when unloaded vs loaded or something along...
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