As said don't cut holes in the bed.... but it's your truck do what you want... I wanted to have a stack on the dodge and vowed never again... puts soot on the truck at start up - not worth it.... Side exit or tail exit exhaust for me or like now exits under the bed before the rear axle - either...
do you hear a chuffing sound from the exhaust like air rushing past something???? If so check the valves for valve guide wear.... it's a common thing on these IDI's that the valve guides wear allowing the valves to tip and if let go - the head of the valve comes off - then it's new engine time.
welcome to the site. As mentioned you will find a ton of information here and good people to boot. Pull up a chair, kick yer shoes off and stay awhile.
I gotta put an order in at work for some vitons for a hydraulic valve that is leaking on...... oh yeah Machine number.... errr 3 that's right machine 3 is leaking....
can you isolate which hole is doing the slight tapping by loosing the injector line to stop fuel from entering that injector and keeping that hole from firing? If it's an injector problem then it will stop tapping. but if something else it will keep right on tapping just have a miss....
Seen one before rolling down the road... Looked pretty decent. I just did the double tow when we did it (E1 pulling 31ft TT with Waverunner or fishing boat hitched to back of TT). You would think that backing up would be out of the question but it's really not that hard. Just have to think...
well I have had a return line cap leaking (rear most passengers side) for a little while now - been so cold and me been busy that I just haven't had the time to deal with it or didn't want to deal with it. But one day I replaced the o-rings on it and it was bitterly cold and cracked the cap...
sounds like the vacuum pump is letting you know it's going to need replacement.
Signs of that - rock hard pedal - meaning no vacuum assist.
brake light on - sensor detects that vacuum isn't strong enough so turns light on to alert you of problem.
Hx35 will work just fine. I would couple it to a 3 piece high flow exhaust manifold then down to 4 inch unless you want to get freaky with the amount of air you stuff in the engine - because there is a thing as too much exhaust size because you lose the velocity of the exhaust gasses and...
Me I'm a mechanical injection kinda guy and would go that route. But typically the p-pumped trucks get better fuel mileage it seems but not by that much - maybe a couple of miles per gallon at best. Another reason I like p-pumps is they are just flat almost bullet proof - you don't hear of guys...
Yep... while the E4OD is a good tranny - I have loved them but they are no where in the league of putting the power down to the ground. I had a 6.9 NA with a t19 4 speed that felt stronger than the Enterprise with all her mods (turbo and water/meth injection) with a good solid E4OD off the line...
what's the filter look like inside that bad boy?
I always just ran a BHAF because the air under hood exchanges at such a high rate that it's effectively ambient temp, I mean the outside temp reading is taken from under the battery on the drivers side. And I know when I made the switch to the...
what's the filter look like inside that bad boy?
I always just ran a BHAF because the air under hood exchanges at such a high rate that it's effectively ambient temp, I mean the outside temp reading is taken from under the battery on the drivers side. And I know when I made the switch to the...
Pretty much... the 2500 manual and the 3500 (any tranny) have the same rear end (both heavy duty) - they are a 70/80 hybrid - 80 center with 70 axle shafts.
The nut is captured on the shaft and won't go anywhere. It's not gonna cause problems but if you never ever fix it - then it can cause problems because that nut also sets up the slack in the main shaft. Not much but enough that many many miles (I'm talking 10k or better) will result in excess...
The nut is captured on the shaft and won't go anywhere. It's not gonna cause problems but if you never ever fix it - then it can cause problems because that nut also sets up the slack in the main shaft. Not much but enough that many many miles (I'm talking 10k or better) will result in excess...
An alignment will be needed. More than likely no on the pan hard bar, but the ext on the sway bar maybe, would have to see how it lines up when you are done. If the angle isn't too bad then no but..... will just have to see afterwards. How I did mine on the trucks I have lifted it take the link...
sexy.... Man that metal is gleaming.... I do question your use of smurf poop on the areas of the head gasket though.... not that it's a a problem but you shouldn't need it.
I remember the days of getting my fingers in an engine at that level... I actually envy you a little... not the cost wise...
Jordan is right on - the injection pumps on those trucks are a weak point and an upgraded fuel delivery system is the key.
But for the most part a guy can get parts for them but then again not much really goes out and they really don't require a lot of maintenance and what they do need a guy...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.