This one came in the shop today with a coolant leak. It's a 1987 F250 with a 6.9. Coolant is running out between cylinders 3 and 5 between the intake and head. Nothing is leaking into the intake. I've never seen one of these leak in this area before. I'm assuming cracked head? I don't believe...
I should also mention my 84 has a 208 transfer case. The double cardan yoke from the 1356 t case wouldn't fit it so I had to reuse my original TTB shaft.
Spacer blocks for the rear springs. They're taller on a D60 truck.
Track bar bracket and track bar. You'll need to drill two holes for the track bar bracket in the engine crossmember. One hole from the TTB bracket is reused, the other two will need to be drilled. 86 and newer trucks have them...
Check the driveshaft to see if the joints are phased correctly. If they pulled it apart at the slip yoke maybe they didn't get it aligned right on the splines when they put it back together. The yokes should line up with each other at both ends of the shaft.
Yep. Sunlight is what kills these things. I use a windshield sunscreen whenever it's parked outside and wipe it down with UV dash protectant a few times a year. Mine still looks like new.
New ones are still available:
https://dashesdirect.com/product/1980-1986-f-150250350-ford-original-tooling-dash-pad/
They're spendy but worth it if you're restoring the truck. I bought one about 8 years ago.
Are you thinking of the cruise control cancel switch located on the master cylinder? They would short out and start on fire. Ford's fix was a jumper harness with a fuse.
I never removed the hood on mine. All I did was remove the springs which allows the hood to open farther and propped it up. I also took the radiator out and the front wheels off so I could get the front end lower. I lifted the engine up and over the core support without any issues.
Ever since my turbo install I've been fighting issues with the slip connection on the up pipe. I've cleaned and sealed it three times with copper rtv, but every time I get into a hard pull it blows the rtv out, boost and power drop and egt goes way up. I'm hoping this is a permanent fix. I was...
Blew out the copper rtv in my up pipe slip joint again today. Third time it's happened now. I followed the instructions every time but it still won't hold. Today I was pulling a long steep grade with the trailer and about halfway up it blew out. I noticed an immediate change in the sound, boost...
Your truck doesn't have vacuum hubs, they are mechanically operated. The axle shaft turning inside the hub automatically engages it. There should be a vent hose on the axle housing, maybe this is the line you're referring to?
I have the GTX3582, 110 pump and intercooler. Over the weekend I pulled my 20' gooseneck car trailer loaded with a small car, I'm guessing total weight between the car and trailer was around 8K. Pulling up a fairly steep grade I was able to easily maintain 55-60 mph in 4th gear, 10 psi boost and...
Straight pipe would be pretty loud. Before I put a turbo on mine I had dual exhaust with glass packs. It sounded great until you got to around 2300 rpm, then it turned into an obnoxious cackle. I imagine with straight pipes it would be much worse.
I drove a 84 F250 with a 460, T19 and 3.55 gears for years and almost always started out in 2nd gear and never had any problems. With a ZF I always use first, but the T19 was geared slower in 1st compared to the ZF so I never used it unless I was pulling a trailer.
There's no real way of knowing how someone else wired it without testing but its usually:
Yellow-left turn
Green-right turn
Brown-tail/marker
White- ground
Blue is usually trailer brakes, but if there's no blue wire I use red when I hook them up.
I had trouble too. I used a 5/16 bit by hand until I could easily slide it in and out but the probe still wouldn't go. I ended up using a 1/4" carbide burr on a die grinder and carefully reamed the hole until it fit.
I bought my 92 years ago "as is" with oil being pushed into the coolant. The heads had already been removed and there were no signs of any issues with the gaskets and the oil cooler had been replaced for the same reason. It was cavitation, I found a pinhole in one cylinder so I ended up sleeving...
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