I have never done the soapy water. I have washed the cylinders down with parts cleaner and then do a wipe in each cylinder with engine oil before installing the pistons.
After further investigation i see that the cap is help to the rod with a nut not a bolt . so I assume the nut is safe to reuse provided nothing is wrong with it?
Okay so after further inspection of the cylinder walls... the crosshatch is non existent. So I ordered the ball hone and rings and lower rod bearings. What else do I need and are the connecting rod bolts reusable?
I will check for flow through the centers, most of the copper color is gone on the rods where they contact but they all looked very round and i didn't see any that looked out of shape.
When I pulled the push rods on this donor engine they were not all installed the proper direction (copper colored end up) should I put them back the way they came out or should I turn the the proper way when I put it back together?
I ended up using the brass wire wheel i had. I tried the roloc pad (medium) and even with light pressure it was scratching the cast iron surface. So I abandoned that method for the wire wheel and it came out perfect. I pluged the oil drain back ports with ear plugs and just went at it. Vacuumed...
So the holes with the blue tape pointing to them are the oil drain back passages? I have the valley covered. Anything else to cover before I make a mess?
I can flush the coolant side to remove debris but I'm worried about the oil side. The outer two small holes just below the outer (or rather front and back ) head bolts are the oil ports correct? I want to plug them before using the pads to clean the deck.
I normally do too. But I'm in a location where I don't have access to a compressor that can run my angle grinder. I guess I could try to run the Rolex disk in the drill.
I have the old gasket scraped off and used a gasket stripper. But after two applications of the stripper there is still old graphite gasket material on the block and heads. Is it safe to use a brass wire wheel at low speed to clean the rest of the graphite off? The brass should be soft enough...
So I'm not against new bolts. Especially with the rust and knowing that these head bolts have been reused before. With the BMW engines I have done (1990's) you had to re torque the head bolts after 50-100 miles if installing new head bolts. Is that the case with these bolts? Also when the last...
Pulled the heads last night and doesn't look to bad to me. Dirty and a little buildup in some places but no cracks or anything I can see so far. The rusted head bolts concern me a little because I was planning on reusing them. Do you think clean and reuse or order new? Or steal 3 from the other...
Pulled the exhaust manifolds off tonight and found two ports wet with what appears to be oil. Doesn't smell like diesel. I am assuming this is a indicator of the valve seals being bad?
Well I decided to do head gaskets while I have the engine on a stand. Can the head bolts be reused? They look new, in fact the everything under the valve covers looks like it has been rebuilt. I got the felpro gaskets set for the engine. Are the felpro head gaskets good?
This Is the 1500 lbs rated engine stand from pep boys, while putting it together I was surprised at how light duty it looked. But the mounting arms that connect to the block don't spread wide enough to get to the lowest trans bolts so I have the two upper bolts and then the mid bolts have the...
So I don't like how the engine was sitting on the stand so I added a leg from the stand to the bottom of the crank pulley. What are the possibilities that the leg could cause a problem... bent pully or damage the crank or bearings. I will get a picture tomorrow.
I feel the same way. I even did the compression test two times to make sure my numbers were correct.
This engine is only supposed to have 140,000 miles on it, Under normal conditions I wouldn't assume this engine had been rebuilt. It is out of a 1989 but the navstar tag on the pass valve cover...
Now as far as value... I have gotten all my receipts together for vehicles in the past and used that as a value for a custom insurance policy so the actual replacement value of the vehicle is covered should it be destroyed.
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