Not to knock popular wisdom, but I ALWAYS use my park-brake, regardless of temperature/climate, UNLESS I have been driving in heavy freezing rain and expect temperatures to drop drastically in the night, in which case the shoes may actually freeze to the drums.
It has been my own experience...
I know ----- old thread.
Anyway, instead of one of those sexy little hitch-steps, why not one of those big luggage carriers poked in the front, maybe with a custom-built deck to walk around on; thus, you could just climb around all over and not have to worry about missing that tiny step...
Thanks everyone for the input and pictures.
I just finished the right side = the side that had the park-brake cable broke; and, for the first time since I have owned the truck, everything replaceable from the grease-seal to the axle-flange is brand-new (except the drums --- I couldn't afford...
Maybe someone that has pictures of my truck's front bumper will be kind enough to show them; I haven't yet got pictures figured out.
That being said, I have a really cool really stout home-made front bumper that has many times been used to drag my truck, huge goose-neck trailer, and full load...
icanfixall is right on count one; as, I have learned that those extra little clip-thingies are used on the F-100s and F-150s, and have no purpose on F-250s and F-350s.
gandalf's second picture clearly shows the second layer of steel plate/reinforcement, located immediately above where the...
In my shiny new brake hardware/spring kit, there are two little 3/4" long 1/2" wide maybe 3/32" thick little "Cs" or "clips" or somesuch with a hair over 1/4" open sides; what are these and where do they go ??
I see nothing that resembles them, nor have I ever seen anything like them on any...
>>> ONE MORE QUESTION <<<
I was looking at carrier-bearings / center support bearings at Rock Auto.
So far, my original carrier-bearing is still doing it's job.
Considering it has a blue-million-miles on it, I sort of thought I would go ahead and get a new one just to have on hand if...
So far as the two forward mount brackets, the one under the radiator support and the one under the floor-board, it is a simple matter to remove them from the frame, add as much length onto the bottom leg as desired, drill new holes accordingly, and remount to the frame.
The mounts under the...
The rear section with two universal-joints will separate from the splines once the rear-most joint is removed from the pinion-yoke.
To bring down the forward section requires un-bolting the carrier from the cross-member --- providing my memory is correct.
The carrier and carrier-bearing...
Don't ask for pictures; I can't do them.
I have changed numerous LR-E DRW and SRW wheels/tires on my simple Harbor Freight tire-changer --- and I have access to a complete tire-shop full of the latest air- and electric-driven changers, Coats, Hunter, Corgi, Ranger, etc.
Trick #1 is...
I readily admit to being WAY the dumbest one in this discussion; but, so far as "seat-of-the-pants" effect, would not the increased area of the two pistons pushing both shoes against the drum double the mathematical gain ??
My original logic agreed with 79jasper's very logical reasoning.
However, although I never saw any math or science to explain it, the Dodge guys who had made the switch seemed to be well pleased with the results.
Thanks, JAKE_IN, for doing the math; if I understand the mathematical results...
It seems this was discussed some years ago; however, I can't find it.
It is a common up-grade on the Dodge sites to replace the original 1" (bore) or 1-1/16" wheel-cylinders with the 1-3/16" GMC wheel-cylinders.
Whereas, the Ford and Dodge cylinders are LEFT and RIGHT specific, with the...
I am ordering new park-brake cables; my right-side one came loose; I don't yet know if the cable broke or if it came loose from the lever within the drum.
I have narrowed my choice down between two brands.
DORMAN cost just over $18 for both cables.
WAGNER are just over $28 for both...
It is a small matter to shorten a flat to the length you desire.
My steel flat was originally 12-feet long; I shortened it to 8-feet so as to easily clear goose-neck trailers.
I made a really nice welding table using the left-over piece.
No one can tell that my flat has been altered.
Located under the hood, on the extreme right-side, close to the fire-wall, is a vacuum-operated plunger/solenoid that opens/closes a door when MAX or NORM A/C is selected.
I ?think? it closes off outside air in MAX A/C mode.
Anyway, the one on my truck had quit working; so, I simply...
My 1985 long-wheel-base F-350 chassis-cab has a two-piece drive-shaft with three universal joints and a carrier-bearing.
Way back when in un-molested factory-original configuration, for reasons un-be-knownst to me, both ends of the assembly had "hybrid" joints, with differing cup-sizes, and a...
I used to have the biggest wattage (1500 or so) KATS on my old 6.9 and, after about three hours, the temperature-gauge would actually be up a bit and I would already have heat.
The secret to success with those type heaters is to mount the actual heater below the lowest drain-opening of the...
Mounted far enough forward, a front-mounted spare is not so detrimental to radiator cooling as those close-mounted ones with a big cover or hub-cap covering all the wheel openings.
Other options are over the cab or above the camper.
Some creative fabrication with a "boat-trailer" winch...
Okay, I will stick in my 2-cents worth.
My truck was doing the same, except not quite so bad as to hang up in "START"
What happens is the poorly designed pot-metal ignition-switch actuating rod is hidden deep within the confines of the column, where it cannot be accessed, cannot be...
So far as fan-clutch storage, I have always been told to only store them in the vertical orientation, just as if they were on an engine.
Of course, so far as I am concerned, the best place for a fan-clutch is in a sink-hole, way on the back-side of the farm.
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