Just replaced BOTH rear parking cables and now the main/front cable must be hanging-up... depress pedal (no ratcheting sound) and the pedal flops.
I have to go under truck and physically pull the main cable and the pedal returns to up-position.
So... is it difficult to unbolt the parking brake...
What a coincidence... I just replaced BOTH rear parking cables and now the main/front cable must be hanging-up.
So... is it difficult to unbolt the parking brake assembly to clean/lube and install a new front cable?
OE had 4-prongs holding the cable end in-TIGHT to the rear Drum Plate.
The Dorman made in China 'garbage' only has 2-prongs and isn't a snug fit at all.
And... the springs are 1/2" too long, I had to cut the excess off.
And this is why you need to replace BOTH rear cables at the same time (aftermarket Dorman) isn't a direct match
But even what's in the box is wrong... like it's boxed wrong.
Since I bought her new in 1988... until now, zero issues with those cables.
I'm thinking a spring in the shoe 'may' have broken, but all those parts are only a few years old.
It appears my top cable (pass-side) isn't behaving properly... I get very little movement out of it. Lower cable (drivers side) I can pull by hand and it returns just fine.
#1 are these cables available separately?
#2 is there a way to free it up?
#3 possible issue in the drum/shoe area, maybe...
Never EVER noticed this before but at the bottom of a brand new 2-gallon sealed jug of Super Tech 15/40 I notice what looks like micro copper flakes.
The video wouldn't load, too big.
What the heck is that about?
My bad, could have swore I saw $78.00 on my cell.
But now on my Laptop I'm seeing $20.99
I have a decent 'crimper' but more for butt connectors.
I don't want to wait for a delivery... I'll check out what Hope Depot or even Harbor Freight may have to offer.
Just saying, in person those male/female pins are small, fragile looking and thin. For that multi connector 18 gauge wire may be fine 'but' the OE wires going in/out of my original wiring harness/connector sure seems thicker then 18 gauge. (not referring to the four heaver 10 gauge GP wires)
If you recall: my engine harness plug at the heavy Glow Plug wires fried so, I just got in the multi-pin connector AND the heaver RED connector for the four -10 gauge GP wires that some suggested.
However... the male/female pins on the 12-pin connector look extremely thin/tiny and delicate like...
Update... until the Amazon power/disconnect arrives, I isolated the big yellow wires and also put new eyelets on the burnt wires at the fender mounted relay.
Cleaned up all connections, used heat-shrink, kept my fingers crossed and the old girl started like the day I bought her new in 1988...
Question... when yours fried did it hurt the fender mounted starter relay?
I'd hate to make everything 'pretty' and have a bad starter relay hurt something else.
My engine cranks fine but obviously no GP's because of the burnt wires.
Here I thought the GP Controller went bad... nope (wasted $200)
So, did the existing bad connection at the multi-pin connector cause the two wires going into the eyelet to burn-up or, did something in the fender mounted starter relay fail and burn wires?
My continuity tester well tell if any of...
Very disappointed:
The GP Controller on the right that (waited two days for) is 'exactly' like the unit from Nappa that costs $60 less. The Napa unit was bad 'out of the box' and the plastic protection cover wouldn't fit. Thankfully Napa refunded my money.
The OE unit on the left (lasted 23...
Oh well: new Napa GP controller is faulty.
They will swap for another controller or, refund my money.
Think I'll spend the extra $ and get the Ford unit.
Last Ford controller lasted 23 years, I'll may be worm food in five.
Correct... the OEM has full epoxy underneath with more electronics and the Napa has much less going on.
But of course the paperwork with the aftermarket states it "designed to meet and exceed the original parts performance"
Well, maybe the Napa brand was a mistake. Napa GP Controller clicking like crazy and the 'Wait to Start Light" only on for a blink of an eye... but I installed it on a warm/hot engine.
Clearly OEM VS aftermarket not the same on the underside, 1/3 the epoxy as OEM.
Dead cold start coming tomorrow...
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