As a preventive measure after you fix seal, etc, make sure the vent is clear. It is located at the brake line fitting on the axle tube. My pinion seal stopped leaking after clearing out the vent.
If you are a restorer it may matter to you that the bed is '87 or later. On the earlier beds the wheel arch is different and matches the front fender arch. Looks good from here.
6.9 engines had open coolant ports that had to be sealed with Gasket Eliminator when the valley pan was installed. That seemed sketchey to me and I had my machinist install pipe plugs there. He was able to do it but I wouldn't try it myself. As shown earlier, the ports on 6.9 are not round.
When you said you fought #1 injector line with a new set of lines, if they are 7.3 lines#1 may be shorter to allow for the timing adapter used on 7.3. If that is the case, a #1 line from a van will be the correct length as the van adapter is on #4.
A member here (OLDBULL8) drilled out the rivets and took the fuel selector valve apart to clean it. If the shower head in the tank comes apart, pieces can get into the valve. It can be put back together with screws.
Alignment dowels work well to install flywheel too, especially working under the truck. I had to struggle to bench press the FW, much less align bolt holes.
Put the top O-ring on, then roll the bottom one over it. If you use a piece of hose to cover the threads it helps with install, and lessens the chance of damaging the O-ring. It sounds like you may need a set of glow plugs. Use only Motorcraft/Beru brand, no Autolite, Champion, etc.
The overtemp sender at the front of the head is 1/2 npt. That is the location I used and my factory dash gauge still works. There are some other ports in the heads that are plugged that can be used if you want to try and remove the plug that has been in place for 25+ years. I got a set of Isspro...
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?73856-Glow-Plug-Harness-to-Battery-connector&highlight=melted+gp+harness
Just a WAG but check the harness plug chassis to engine. The plug is prone to melting due to inability to carry the necessary current. I bypassed the plug with the two large...
They probably greased the input shaft housing the TO bearing rides on. I don't think the TO bearing is supposed to rotate unless you step on the pedal. They would wear out pretty fast if constantly rotating. Those bearings that come with clutch kits look pretty cheap. I shift to neutral and let...
I liked the blasted aluminum look of the intake, bit figured it wouldn't stay like that. I asked my paint supplier if it could be clear coated. He recommended applying adhesion promoter (Bulldog brand) and then clear. He said to scuff with a red pad as the oxidation sets in and prevents...
Looks like the oil feed fitting with a "T" for the oil pressure sender. Look at the very back of your engine and you should see the existing one. Mel did a write up that has some helpful photos. I used it to guide me installing mine.
http://www.oilburners.net/articles/ladymooseturbo.html
I painted mine with epoxy primer and catalyzed single stage. It has held up fine for three years. The only areas I went high temp were the exhaust manifolds and the exhaust side of the heads. I used some POR15 hi temp stuff but wasn't all that impressed.
This is the wrench that is in the factory tool kit. Before I had this I used a curved obstruction wrench for starter motors, and thinned out the end with a grinder.
Just did this on my '85. Moog parts from RockAuto: Rt inner DS1069, Left inner DS1072. Outers: ES2728L and ES2727R. I bought adjusting sleeves from Napa ES2079S thread was 22mm.
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