best bet is to find a shop with posters of scantly clad ladies on the walls and the owner/mechanic still smokes cigarettes. Chances are they will be able to rebuild it to OEM specs.
You adjust when the IVS closes and what voltage the TPS shows when off idle and WOT. Sounds like your truck is seeing too much "throttle" when the IVS closes due to the voltage being too high. Or it could be really poor tuning.
Are you happy with the tuning? Are you looking to change? If the latter you can order a hydra chip and install it, which will over-ride anything that was written on the PCM itself. Hydra has standard tuning and customized. I used totaldieselperformance (twildman) for my hydra on my 99, he wrote...
Interesting. HPOPs are pretty much indestructible as long as oil changes are done on schedule. Most are swapped out for "more power" long before they fail. I'd be interested in pictures of the carnage to see a failure point. At least they aren't CP4 pumps LOL.
Most "HPOP failure" diagnostics...
The piston tops have the dome/crown so fluid could sit in there if turned over by hand. Best bet is to crank it over with the starter and the higher velocity will push out any fluid.
I feel your pain. I still believe it's something to do with the R/R of the injectors since the problem started about 5k miles from doing that. As far as you've said the truck ran great prior to that and wasn't overheated, etc during those 5k miles correct?
Did you confirm all 8 injectors are...
ok. That rules out an injector reassembly issue. FWIW armatures can be done with the injectors in place.
My 99 has the original injectors after 265k miles and still starts fine down to -20F. Good working glow plug system (and batteries) is the key at those temperatures.
Not surface rust, no way.
Sounds like the four possibilities listed, and you may have more than one issue going on at the same time:
1) injector o ring
2) injector cup
3) injector failure (depending on what you shimmed)
4) oil cooler failure
What did you "shim" ?
Armature gap (top part of injector) or something else?
If the #7 cup and o rings look good, it could be the injector itself depending on what was shimmed.
You're certain the #7 injector (or all of them for that matter) are properly seated?
I would still replace the #7...
install a new cup and o-rings in #7 with quality parts and being extra diligent that it's done correctly would be my next move.
you didn't play with the injectors at all correct? Just replaced the cups and o-rings 5k miles ago?
more or less what I've been saying. Most of the time when a failure occurs shortly after a repair (in your case o-rings/cups) that is what I would look at first, unless you know that the engine was run hard, etc. These are really stout engines (B10 life = 250k miles, B50 life = 350k miles...
Blown head gaskets are extremely rare on a 7.3
However, I’ve seen head gaskets on turbocharged engines only show signs of leakage while under boost. In other words, idle or drive gently and it would hold. Drive it under boost and white smoke or coolant loss would occur. Is the smoke dependent...
engine oil wasn't a milky mess, correct?
did you pressurize the cooling system before or after you messed with the oil cooler? If the oil cooler isn't sealed properly that would be a direct path into the oil pan for the coolant to follow.
I think you're chasing two problems now.
Agree. Unless it was a 2 cycle diesel then maybe.
I have seen a diesel run in reverse when trying to start and it doesn't quit fire until the last spin. Interesting in that it gives you 3 reverse gears and 1 forward gear. Air filter starts getting hot as well (cushman truckster diesel)
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