Glow plug controller issue.

The wires with the number written on them are labeled as the fusable links.

Something else that may be a problem: clutch switch under the dash.

Truck is running again!
Went and got new batteries and it fired right up, im sure it was a couple things causing me issues but now it's all new. Two new batteries cost me a small fortune lol.
Thanks again everyone.

Just out of curiosity, what is the second wire on the upper large terminal. The black one. I assume the larger red wire on that terminal is running down to the starter solenoid.

TNBrett said:

Just out of curiosity, what is the second wire on the upper large terminal. The black one. I assume the larger red wire on that terminal is running down to the starter solenoid.

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I believe it's coming from my push button start but I may be wrong. I'll look.

The pitting on your battery terminals is caused by arcing from a bad connection / bad cable end. BATTERY CABLE ENDS (the battery clamps) were not mentioned. If you have those clamp-on type that clamp on to bare wires at the ends of your battery cables, THOSE ARE JUNK. The wires being clamped are always exposed to the atmosphere (even under the clamping bar) which causes them to corrode fairly quickly and that corrosion also spreads quite rapidly. After awhile there won't be enough current carrying capacity in that clamped connection to activate the starter. Periodically the clamp has to be removed all of the wire strands cleaned with vinegar and a clean wire brush, rinsed clean and then twisted tight and re-clamped. You can seal them up with an anti-corrosion grease (It's usually red) or liquid rubber (used to insulate wire connections) to try to seal it from the atmosphere but I don't think that will increase the service life for much longer because these clamps (over the wires) will eventually work loose due to vibrations and then you'll end up having to take it apart and clean it again.

I bought a brand new positive cable set at O'Reily's (aka Schucks, and I forgot the other store name they use) about 5 or 6 years ago for $85.00 + tax. They still sell the same ones and THESE ARE EXCELLENT Factory made cables with the clamps molded to the copper wire and completely sealed.
They are well worth the money even at today's higher prices.

The wire gauges and number/size of the wire strands are the perfect specification for this application and you DON'T need bigger cables, such as making your own out of arc welding cable leads. Welding leads are designed specifically for that purpose, not for battery cables. They have very small wire strands and a much higher number of strands. If exposed to the atmosphere they'll have the same corrosion issues but probably worse. They'll also be more difficult to clean up and maintain when they do corrode. At best = no improvement by using welding cable leads.

However, if there is no way to get the money or save the money for a new set of cables, you have to do whatever you have to do to keep the vehicle running and I have no objection to that. I'm just saying that the factory made cables I mentioned are of excellent quality and will solve your battery cable issues and you won't have to mess with bad battery cable connectors for the next 10-20 years. I think they'll last for 20 years - longer than I will be here. Your batteries will most likely last longer too.

Yes I got all brand new battery cables from O'Reilly.