US Gear dual range / Doug Nash DNE2 box. In your application get an OD box (0.8:1) gives you the equivalent of a 3.28 rear in OD, or could regear to 3.55 and use an underdrive box to get the equivalent of a 4.43 rear in low.
Shifts like a 2 speed rear on either a pushbutton or push/pull...
The Haynes manuals are decent (or at least the 2000 era editions I have, no idea if it's changed or not). You need both the F series manual and the diesel engine manual. Diesel engine manual is basically lifted directly from factory, though arranged weirdly.
Best is factory manual.
It's ok, don't stress about it.
Compression test is never really about absolute pressure, it's about differences because there's so many variables. #6 is the only one that's really out of family. Book spec is within 75% of max, i.e. with 440 max, 330 should be minimum, so it's low out of spec...
What fan clutch bearing? Do you mean the water pump? That's the closest bearing I can think of. Elimination of the water pump would be disrecommended, but YMMV.
Also note that the fan is actually more critical when idleing than during most driving conditions, especially if running AC or any...
You can fix 95% of fan clutch problems by adding more oil for a net cost of about $5.
https://www.oilburners.net/threads/the-4-fan-clutch-fix.64852/
Or the real answer is to put an electromagnetic clutch on it - Horton 996127. Seems like to be $800+ though if you can find one.
The first part is rated input torque - 950, 1150, 1450 ft/lb, so size, weight and toughness likely scales accordingly. As long as you're running within rated specs I wouldn't think heat would be an issue for any. Noise is probably more a function of condition than specific model. No idea on...
Check back through this thread - I posted a bunch of part numbers but can't recall if I had seal PNs or not. If not, measure ID, OD & thickness and do some research - I'm sure there's an oil seal out there which will fit.
Shouldn't get too hot - mine I think would get up to about 250* oil temp, and that's on a 4wd with the t-case blocking almost all airflow over it. Having the exhaust right next to it is going to cause problems though. Definitely need a metal cap, pretty sure plastic would melt.
Hardening type...
My approach would probably be to machine a 'top hat' that would go over the OD of that and mate with the flat surface of the plate and either weld to or have screw to hold it to the plate. Probably could find a plastic cap or similiar that would do the same and not require machining. Find...
A bad connection on the fuel shutoff could certain cause a problem. The smaller of the 2 connections is cold advance and only energized when cold/woln't make much difference if it's corroded, but the larger will shut off fuel if the solenoid doesn't get a minimum voltage.
Specifically looking for an *under*drive. Needs to be Ford spline count. Don't need the adapter, control or any of that (though will take it if available), and doesn't need to be in great shape as long as it's not blown up.
I've got a idi dump truck for around the farm use and the 4.10/T-19...
Yes, it need to be bored. Very unlikely it will clean up at 0.010, probably need at least 0.020 and maybe more. A 0.010 bore is difficult to do even just with normal wear, and those pits are at least 0.005" deep.
Check the oil squirters and see if they're press in or bolt in. They will have to...
OE reduced CR pistons seem hard to find. Easiest thing to do is get standard pistons and have them decked. When I did mine I went 0.015" and then had them ceramic coated. IIRC that reduced the CR about 1.5 points. (~20.5 IIRC?) Still started and ran just fine there. I'd be cautious about taking...
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