ZF5 Rebuild

bajabomber87

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Great. Anywhere to get a cheap one or should I just get a South Bend conversion?

Ok the dmf clutch itself has 5k miles on it so its still new, I can get a smf "conversion" flywheel on rock auto for $123, will the same clutch and pressure plate work on the new smf fly wheel or are they different and only will work with a DMF setup?
 

redneckaggie

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unless the clutch has the heavy springs in the center it wont work with an smf. you could do the lucky mod in the tech articles for free if coin is lacking.
 

subway

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if the clutch disk does not have the springs in it it will not work for a SMF, there is a teck article on how to do a SMF kit yourself for much cheaper than a south bend or luke kit. not that there is anything wrong with them just a bit spendy.

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=16973&page=2
post number 18 has the info to put your own SMF together for under 200, edit-plus a 6.9 flywheel

if i remember right a new DMF is somewhere in the crazy 800-1000 dollar range.
 

bajabomber87

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Ok how do I tell if I have heavy springs or not in the clutch?

here's the clutch, they look heavy to me lol

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bajabomber87

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Clutch thats in it now doesnt seem to have the springs. and its a Valeo, sounds like cheap crap.

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bajabomber87

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Ok so I decided to upgrade to the 12" clutch and SMF.

I ordered a 502700 Precision Clutch from Rock Auto. It is a SMF for a 12" clutch. Price shipped "overnite" was $ 196.64.

Then I went to my buddies parts shop and got a deal on the most heavy duty clutch from Luk they had for $423.00.

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Hopefully the SMF will be here tomorrow afternoon so I can get this thing going again.

I still have to pull the tranny apart and replace the reverse synchro. Wish me luck ;p
 

91f2504x4

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Do you have instructions to tear down this transmission? I tore mine down and replaced the Reverse Gear and 5th/Reverse Slider due to grinding when you put the trans in Reverse. I can give you my experiences on the teardown if you don't have any instructions.
 

bajabomber87

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Please give all the insight you can. I only have diagrams and parts list to go by.
Ive been inside my dodge 46re auto tranny many times so this manual ZF doesnt scare me one bit.
 

91f2504x4

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After you remove the shifter, look right in front of that and find the 3 small plugs that hold the detent springs in. Drill a small hole in each one of these and remove each one of them. I used a scew in the hole and a claw hammer to remove the plugs. You will need new plugs when you put the trans back together . Now move to the back of the trans and drive out the dowell pins that line up the rear part of the trans to the main trans case. Next remove the two bolts on the side of the trans that hold the reverse idler gear, they are an allen head bolt, but I can't remember the size, one is located on the rear housing and one will be located on the main case directly across from one another. Now you are ready to take out the bolts the hold the rear housing to the main housing, once these are removed you have to slightly rotate the rear half and pull it apart. The internals will stay on the rear housing. Sit the main case aside. At the bottom of the shifting assemblys you will see a retainer holding them in place with 3 allen screws holding it down. Once you remove it you will be able to pull the shifting assembly off and then be able to remove the main shaft and gear assembly from the rear housing.
 

91f2504x4

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Be carefull when pulling the two housings apart, because the front part of the input shaft will want to come off if you are not careful, and the baffle could easily be broken (the baffle is between the two sections and holds fluid on the bearing), sometimes it stays on the mainshaft and is not broken, other times it stays in the input shaft and the plastic part is broken and ruined. Just try not to remove the input shaft from the main shaft if possible. You would be required to remove the front bearing to replace it if you ruin it.

Once you get the trans apart you are going to need to remove the rear bearing to get the gears off to get to the Reverse Gear to find the problem. I had to use a bearing puller and a torch to heat it to get it off, without the proper attachment the bearing will be ruined, a new one is $40 (I had to buy one) mine did not want to budge even with a lot of heat it took more heat that I thought was safe and the bearing turned colors but came loose, I did not feel safe in reusing it. The new one goes on very easy if you stick it in the oven for 12-15 minutes at 300 degrees. If you need anymore help I can let you know the rest of the process. I thought mine was a synchro problem too but as I said, it was the gear itself and the slider assembly.
 

bajabomber87

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Damnit LOL

I can grind it shifting into reverse and I can also get it into reverse no problem but once I start letting the clutch out, it will grind.

Any idea's on the actual problem? sounds like a synchro to me and the PO.
 
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