wmo filter life?

[mudslut350]

okay so im about to purchase everything and set up my wmo filtering setup but i have a couple questions i cant seem to find answers for. first is how long are your filters lasting before theyre plugged up? ill be using a 10 mic water seperator and a 2 mic filter. second i have two 55 gallon barrels of wmo long story short they each have probably 2-3 gal each water in them. they are closed top . i dont know how to get the water out easily. i need a small petcock type valve in the bottom is what ive come down to so not sure how to install one as its closed barrels. im thinking about filtering out about half the barrel first into clean barrels then plug them back up after that tip barrel with contaminates on its side drill a hole big enough so the petcock can thread into the sheet metal and jb weld the threads and thread it into the barrel essentially holding it by the threads and jb the outside. also from my settling barrels to clean barrels the oil should be water free am i correct? or should i install valves on the bottom of clean barrels. any help would be great thank you!

 

[fordf350man]

going to follow this as i am curious as well, im getting all of my stuff together to start wmo

 

[Josh Carmack]

I leave water in my drums and draw above it, then dump out the water. Heat above the boiling point while processing. One problem that will arise from that much heat thought, you will boil out any added gasoline. It's a catch 22.
I use three series 10mic filters, about 100 gals and the pressures start to climb to 60 PSI. I remove the no1 filter, and replace it with no2, and then replace no 2 with three, and then put a new filter in number three spot. I run three in series, because they are not 10 mic absolute filters. Filter cost not counting brackets and bases, is about 15 cents per gallon. My under hood stock filter is a 12 mic filter, I have not changed it since I bought the truck. It's coming up on 20k miles according to the mileage written on the filter.

 

[The FNG]

If the barrels have been sitting for a while and you believe the water has had time to separate, I would get a pipe that is about 4 feet long and cap one end. Then drill holes about 4 inches from the cap. Pump rom the uncapped end. That would be the cheapest and easiest way to do it assuming you have a pump.

 

[Smoky12v]

I have plugged ph2528 after pumped 25 gallons, other time it took maybe 200 gallons before get plugged. I suppose it depends on WMO quality. The longer you let it to settle, the longer the filter will live.

 

[Brad S.]

I think its Towcat that has a pump that pulls the wmo through filters, rather then pushing it.
That would allow for better filtering too.
The wmo quality is a big thing, and what kind of wmo. From diesel engines or gas etc.
I have a CF, but also use the original filter set up to premix RUG and wmo before the CF gets it.
One of my filters is a normal engine oil filter, I change it twice a year even if it's not plugged.

 

[catbird7]

I use a 12volt DC fuel pump and first pull thru a standard oil furnace (grey wool) filter, then push thru another oil furnace filter (grey wool), and finally push thru a fram HPG1 fuel grade filter.

 

[The FNG]

Pull it, don't push it! Especially if you are using automotive style bypass filters. As the filter plugs, it will restrict flow until it stops if it is being sucked through in a "vacuum" system. However, if it is in a (positive) pressure system, it will use the "bypass" function of the filter and just pass the dirty oil through. Just my opinion.

 

[catbird7]

I'ver been using this for years with no trouble??? I change the fuel filter on my truck only once per year so I figured my filtering system must work pretty good. So you're saying, I should be pulling thru the Fram HPG1 instead of pushing? I can change it around pretty easy.

 

[The FNG]

I'm not saying your doing it wrong, it's just a different way. In my opinion, it is better because it actually lets you know when you filter is plugged where the other ones may not. However, it sounds like you already pull through your first filter, which is the one that is most likely to clog.

 

[catbird7]

I'll re-visit the instructions for the Fram HPG1. Thanks for the heads-up!

 

[The FNG]

I'm not familiar with that filter, but since it is not being used for a piece of machinery that requires lubrication it doesn't matter if the flow of oil is restricted or stops. For example, a car oil filter needs to be a bypass filter in case the filter plugs. That way the car still gets oil, even if it is dirty.

 

[Josh Carmack]

I push through all my filters, the thing to do is to use filters that do not have a bypass. Fuel filters of almost any type do not have bypass valves. I use WIX 24347's and related 1" NPT filter base. They are burst rated at 285 PSI. When pumping through those three, I am using the same pump from my processing drum. I hook a hose to my centrifuge bypass valve and open the bypass all the way up. I do that with the rotors removed because I have already run the batch, and have them sitting waiting to be cleaned. So in essence the centrifuges are the overflow/bypass for my filters, but they bypass back to the processing drum. I watch the feed pressure on the filters, and when it get to around 60 PSI i change them. I will stop doing that soon as I'm getting a tank and pump from an uncle that I can store cleaned oil in. I only change them at 60 because at that pressure most of the oil is simply returning to my drum and I'm impatient. Once set up a better storage system I'll change the filters at a flow rate much slower as I'll be able to walk away. also when i change them, I don't change all three. I rotate the two down stream filters one position upstream, and replace the farthest down stream with a new one. I was already aware of the fact that high pressures will blow particles through a filter, so I set up three of the same type in series. I haven't yet changed a truck filter, and the flow through it is fine. but my stock filter is a 15 mic, and my dispensing filters are 10 mic. All in all I think the right way to do it is any way you like, as long as you are ensuring you are running filters that are rated lower than you stock filters, and are NOT using bypass type filters.

 

[catbird7]

Fram HPG1 is a fuel filter typically used for gasoline therefore probably does not have a bypass and is likely safe to push or pull. 10 micron I think.......

 

[mudslut350]

Haven't been on this thread in a little bit but after reading the replies I've come up with a few points. 1. Pulling oil off the top of the water how will I know where the water starts unless I but clear hose but would clear hose just turn black? 2. I have a pump and I've determined I'm going to push I have no bypass filters. 3. I think I was pretty tired writing my first post sorry its kinda confusing but think I got it figured out I'm using a sbc pump to push through my filters. All I need now is hose and discovering its expensive! $4 a foot and I'm thinking about 10 ft would do me perfect.oh we'll free fuel will pay for itself lol