discbrks
Registered User
Just like it says... which do you fell is better to spray on exhaust bolts that don't wanna move? Breaking the bolts/studs is NOT an option.... anybody got any secrets?
Which do you like better: WD-40 or PB Blaster?
- Thread starter discbrks
- Start date
EMD_DRIVER
Say what?!?!
I second the blue wrench, on manifold bolts!
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
My first and only choice is Aerokroil... Then if thats not doing what I want I add heat... You can run the motor after the kroil is on then let it cool down and do it again if time allows for it. Otherwise kroil w/heat. Then PB blaster w/ heat... Then burn them off because nothing on the earth has workd... Thats just how things go. Don't try using any old grade 8 bolts. The exhaust manifold bolts are special locking threads and Ford still sells them. Maybe even International too. Apply some anti sieze on the threads for the next time...
+1 on the Kroil
discbrks
Registered User
Where do you buy Kroil? Never heard of it. I'm all about anti-seize, I use it on everything. I'm trying to remove a turbo set-up.
tknomaj
Registered User
WURTH ROST OFF + or WURTH ROST OFF FREZZE works every time no blue wrench required
Here is the direct order site for kroil.
http://www.kanolabs.com/
try Grainger or some type of industrial supply, it is 13 bucks a can and worth every penny.
PB is pretty darn good.
If you know any lawson dealers get some Drummond, Open and Shut, almost as good as Kroil
http://www.lawsonproducts.com/shared/catalogimages/drummondj/da6152.jpg
WD 40 doesnt work as good as it used to
discbrks
Registered User
WURTH ROST OFF + or WURTH ROST OFF FREZZE works every time no blue wrench required
I forgot all about the WURTH products... thanks for the reminder!
tknomaj
Registered User
WURTH is not CHEAP but is WORTH EVERY PENNY
masterbeavis
Full Access Member
I have lots of WD40, but dont rely on it to loosen rusted bolts. For over the counter stuff, I prefer PB blaster, but for exhaust type stuff, go straight for the torch.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Aerokroil has a great warranty. You pay for one can and they ship 2 cans. If you don't like it send back the unused can and keep the open can. Then they send you all your money back. You wont be sending anything back thats a known fact. WD is nothing more than plain old simple fish oil... But it works for planty of things like drying out a wet elactrical problem like a wet ignition system. Used it twice when my Austin Healey 3000 went thru a deep puddle (all puddles are deep for those cars) one winter. But Kroil works best from my 30 + years of use... It really creeps into tight spaces just like it states. One real big problem with its use... It tastes terrible. I found this out many years ago. There is a reason for that funny little arrow imprinted on the spray button.
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I use the Kroil to take apart the turbos I have been working on, it really works. I never used it before that and I am amazed. I am hard to impress.
If a bolt/nut won't backup, try tightening it 1st, if it will move the slightest, then it has broken loose. Those self locking threads form little claws on them to keep from backing out. There are different percentages of thread contact, self locking has 90% contact. Run of the mill bolts are rolled threads 75% contact, 90% bolts are die threaded. If you use a flame wrench, heat then let the heat soak in then heat somemore, let cool then try backing out. If you use an impact gun, go in-out in-out several times very short spurts, don't come, then it's time for the flame wrench. No secrets, just the way I do it.
Knuckledragger
blowing chunks and grabbing porcelain
Kroil is the greatest. If you give it time, sometimes days, it will loosen anything that can be loosened (as in - not damaged).
It is only sold directly by mail. Kano laboratories in Nashville, I think. They make a bunch of other stuff that is good, too.
It is only sold directly by mail. Kano laboratories in Nashville, I think. They make a bunch of other stuff that is good, too.
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