Waste gate tie back?

Joejohn

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We'll I adjusted my wastegate trying to get boost to 12-15lbs. I have the gate tight enough that I can't go anymore or I can't get the arm on the dowel. I need to get 12-15 psi. Egt's are low and the truck is strong but it has allot more in it. I can see the waste gate opening on my boost gauge and can hear it opening. If I just wire tie it shut can it hurt anything? I can't seem to get more boost from it and I have no leaks. I may advance the timing just a bit more as that made a massive change for me.
 

'94IDITurbo7.3

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What are you seeing now for boost? With a healthy fuel system you should be able to hit 20psi no problem with the WG fully functioning.........Low EGT's and low boost indicate you are out of fuel. you can turn the fuel up on the injection pump. if that is already maxxed out then you need a new IP.
 

OLDBULL8

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20 PSI boost, ya gotta be kidding. Maybe full load in first gear at 3000 RPM.
 

typ4

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You could unhook the hose to the wastegate pot.
 

Joejohn

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I have a powerstroke intercooler I'm not super heating the air. Temps are cool. I'm hitting 11psi almost instantly. I have a DPS pump and its not out of fuel, I'm still on pre set settings. Truck is strong just the wastegate won't hold. I think the diaphragm is bad.
 

Leeland

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Doubtful, a torn diagram would not be over powering the spring holding the waste-gate shut. Take a line clamp and pinch the reference line off or unplug it and block it off.
 

Joejohn

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If I can squeeze another 3psi from it I will be happy
 

Joejohn

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You could unhook the hose to the wastegate pot.

Type4 I think you were the one I sent my turbo to years back. Machined the compressor and put a bigger wheel I think. Was that you? The truck runs strong but has allot more in it. I already outran my dads 1999 factory 7.3l ps. I just know it has more at only 11psi. What would normal unloaded egt's be cruising at 70mph on a 100 degree day?

Tried a 1st grear launch. Bad idea major axle wrap and wheel hop with 37" tires=wild bumpy ride. Would post a video but don't know how to edit the cussing after. Lol
 

icanfixall

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The simple cheap fix is like typ4 posted. Remove and plug the boost hose but test this easy. The boost wastegate now is non operational and exterme high boost is possible. Sadly you have a questionable DPS pump and thats probably your biggest issue with low boost. The history of what comes out of that shop is well documented in the Hall of Shame forum. Your post about the pump settings told us you have not turned up the pump too. Addig fuel increases the boost because it increases the exhaust heat. It mat be difficult to understand but heat is what causes the hot side of the turbo to turn harder and crate more boost. Adding heat to turbo exhaust increases the power available to make boost. When I worked in a gas turbine power plant making electrical power for the western grid I was responcible for the redesign of a steam cooling regulater that finally after 15 years allowed full power on the generating units. We were finally able to achieve full temps on the power end of the gas turbines of 1569 degrees....:eek: The hotter the exhaust gas the higher the power output of the turbine or turbo. Now you can get too hot and you must know what the hot wheel can handle in all circumstances.
 

Joejohn

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Not trying to hurt any feelings or pot stir but there is nothing wrong with my DPS pump. Matter of fact it has totally changed the way the truck drives. I think it has allot more in it. The DPS head studs I had went to Shizil on me but this pump is amazing. Just calling a spade a spade. I'm going to try plugging the waste gate off and add just a touch more IP timing. I know the gate is holding me back as I can see via boost gauge, and hear it open at 12psi and dropp off to 11 and hold until red line. My dads was the same way and he never went any farther with it. I just was 14-15psi and I will be happy.

Any ideas on cruising egt's? What's a round a bout norm for a 100 degree day at 70mph?
 

icanfixall

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Nobodys feelings are going to be hurt because you like the DPS pump. My comments stand on what has been posted in the Hall of Shame bout that shop and what comes out of there. Many years ago I worked with Ken designing the first H13 stud kits for the 7.3 idi engine. I installed the first or second set made and they were spectacular in the job they did and the appearance. They looked like surgical stainless steel. The H13 material stud had a breaking strenght of... 270,000 psi...:eek::thumbsup::sly When my engine lost a freeze plug and melted down pulling a grade I tried reusing those studs in the next build. Found a broken one laying in the driveway and another resting on the motor mount...:mad: Drove up to ARP with those and some that were not broken asking them wth but ended up buying a set of theres and never looked back. ARP studs at that time were 200,000 or 220,000 psi. Can't recall now. You seem to be attempting to do what feels right to you. Taking the information given here is mostly based on hands on practical experiance from years of collective work done on these engines. Typ4s idea is the least item you can do that will give you the most information and cost you nothing. I concur with that. But changing the timing to increase the boost I can't concur with. Increasing the fuel will give you more boost. If what I'm posting is suspect please do this. Follow your idea of changing the timing but... Make a center punch mark in the cover to pump joint. See what happens. then move it back or just increase the fuel. Report back what works. My ego is not at risk here. I don't need to see a post telling me I was right. I'm just interested in getting you the results you feel you want. What you want is not out of the question with what you have built either.
 
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