Subways DT360 into my 94 F350

[subway]

The picture was taken after I drilled the hole. I had not cut the threads off at this point. This is how it looks now.

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[subway]

Made some more great progress again today. To start I wanted to get the batteries in and decided to fix up the trays a little. I upgraded the batteries to group 31 before but never extended the trays. Just extending it out with some angle iron seemed to work well and reinforced the trays.

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After that I ran the battery cables. Besides opening up the hole on the starter cable the rest of the cables bolted right in like they were ment to be.



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[BrandonMag]

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When I pulled the water pump off my DT, I was surprised to see the "pulley" was actually two pulleys sandwiched together.

Are you going to run both? 4 belts seems like overkill to me.

 

[subway]

Next I figured out how to fit the whole water pump and radiator together. After some shimming and back and forth I figured I had to assemble the water pump with the radiator out. I cannot get the water pump in when the radiator is in the truck. Looking back I thought I might have some more room but it should work.

The room I get with the radiator and water pump.

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The lower radiator hose I grabbed worked out really well with a single splice. I broke out my flange tool and made a short adapter.

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I could then use that to splice the line together.

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I actually filled the system and pressurized it with a pump and it held pressure great and I could not find any leaks.

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[subway]

When I pulled the water pump off my DT, I was surprised to see the "pulley" was actually two pulleys sandwiched together.

Are you going to run both? 4 belts seems like overkill to me.

I would rather run just 2 but mine is one solid cast pulley. I would have no way to cut it down either since I am using the rear two grooves.

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[subway]

After getting more of the pieces put together I ran into some clearance problems with the hood. I am not sure anyone has done this conversion on my body style. Shimming the radiator forward about an inch caused the cap to interfere with the hood. To fix this I trimmed out a section with the plasma cutter.

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I turned it down and tried to be quick but I still caused a blister on the top of the hood. Not a huge deal for me since when the hood was replaced from an accident they gave me one with rust running the whole inner seam.........

I also could not clear the battery cable running on top of the core support anymore either. Even when I stripped off the outer sheath it still would not clear.

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So I came up with another solution. I took advantage of the bolts already existing on the radiator.

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Now the cable is running through the conduit behind the radiator. It feels sturdy and I might take advantage of that to build a fan mount from later.

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[subway]

And yes in a moment of glory my wifey caught a short video of it running. After all of this sitting it fired off after about 2 seconds of cranking and settled right into an idle! It starts with the key in the truck and the alternator works. So does the hydroboost and steering. It feels so good to get this going.

https://vimeo.com/163642198

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[BrandonMag]

That sounds SWEET!

 

[no mufflers]

are you going to do pusher or puller fans? it doesn't look like you have muck room between the motor and radiator.

 

[subway]

I was planning on pullers but I thought I would have some more room. I should probably have pushed the engine a little farther back but it is set now.

I will probably have to strategically place the fans to the side and skip running a shroud. With my intercooler and condenser I don't have any room on front of the radiator either.

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[BrandonMag]

I think the water temp. will be fine when you're just running down the road unloaded. Especially since your engine is stock.

But once you start turning up the power and/or pulling heavy, you may want to revisit your cooling fan plan.

 

[hesutton]

That's fantastic Jared!!!!

It sounds great and I'm so happy for you buddy. You're gonna love that wet sleeved IH 360!!!!

Heath

 

[IDIoit]

does sound good!
a little bit of advice man,
wrap that cable with electrical tape, rubber grommet, or flare the ends slightly on the conduit that runs across the radiator, thats a good spot to rub to ground!
hell even rtv, to keep it off the side would be ok?

may be overthinking it, but i dont trust those plastic wire looms

 

[subway]

I think the water temp. will be fine when you're just running down the road unloaded. Especially since your engine is stock.

But once you start turning up the power and/or pulling heavy, you may want to revisit your cooling fan plan.

I have a set of fans from a ford windstar I plan on using. I also bought a 100 fan controller to get a "hopefully" more reliable upgrade from a simple relay set up. I might run around a little without the fans empty but they are on the must have list when I get going, especially for towing.

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[subway]

does sound good!
a little bit of advice man,
wrap that cable with electrical tape, rubber grommet, or flare the ends slightly on the conduit that runs across the radiator, thats a good spot to rub to ground!
hell even rtv, to keep it off the side would be ok?

may be overthinking it, but i dont trust those plastic wire looms

Thanks, I am completely open to good advice. I might re do the wiring a little. The wire does not touch the radiator at all but it is going to be exposed to a lot of heat. I have to assume the ends would get as hot as the water temperature since they are bolted to the top tank. I might try re mounting it to the core support. I will admit I didn't spend a lot of time working it out. I was sort of in the find a fix and just go mood

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