stopping the heat form the heater

[dsblack]

So how does the heat get shut off when I move to cool mode. I can adjust the temp, but can never get cool air.
Thanks
Doug

 

[swampdigger]

It's the blend door. Inside the ducting, there's a flap that allows the air to go around the heater core (cool), or through it (hot).

On my '85, if you look at the housing around the heater under the engine bay, right on top there is a little lever sticking up, with a metal cable attached to it. That's hooked up to the blend door inside the housing.

Sounds like blend door is not moving all the way. Try and grab that lever and move it to both extremes to see if you can full cool air. If that's the case, your cable is prolly old and stretched, or something like that. Otherwise your blend door is probably not sealing properly in the cool position.

 

[Mr_Roboto]

The cables adjust at the heater end, I had the opposite problem with a van, the heat wouldn't get hot enough because the door stayed open a little.

 

[rubberfish]

Sounds like all chevs I've ever been in.
Nothing short of by-passing the heater
core altogether and joining the coolant hoses.
Having no defrost kind of sucks though.

 

[adrianspeeder]

Super easy to remove yer glove box and cover over the heater core to inspect if the door closes all the way.

Adrianspeeder

 

[argve]

If the cable come loose from the cable clip on the air box it will do what you are describing... how do I know this... well because once I forgot to clip it in fully after I had been working in there.

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

If the cable come loose from the cable clip on the air box it will do what you are describing... how do I know this... well because once I forgot to clip it in fully after I had been working in there.

Been there. That stinkin little plastic clip doesn't take much to break once weathered 15+ years either.

 

[Mont91]

If this is on your '90 there is the cable inside behind the glove box that is held in by a little clip as mentioned above, might be able to adjust this to close the door all the way in the summer then adjust it back for winter use.

Also under the hood under the hinge on top of the air plenum is a vacuum solenoid that operates a water valve, in max air this turns off the water. So if you run constant vacuum to it no water enters the heater core.

 

[Agnem]

If this is on your '90 there is the cable inside behind the glove box that is held in by a little clip as mentioned above, might be able to adjust this to close the door all the way in the summer then adjust it back for winter use.

Also under the hood under the hinge on top of the air plenum is a vacuum solenoid that operates a water valve, in max air this turns off the water. So if you run constant vacuum to it no water enters the heater core.

Is this true? I thought it just operated the flap that controls recirculated or fresh air mode. To my knowledge, none of the IDI's ever had a water control valve, which is why the one obtained from a Ford Ranger is a popular mod.

 

[Mont91]

It is not true, I was thinking about my '97 Aerostar .

I warned ya'll about my memory.

The solenoid under the hood is the recirculate or max-air door.


I warned somebody about my memory, but I forget who.

 

[jauguston]

I went to NAPA and bought a generic heater water valve and a control cable and stuck it in the heater hose. Now my AC works MUCH better.

Jim

 

[dsblack]

I adjusted the cable position in the clip. We will see how that works.
Also cleaned the dirt build up off of the fan blades, Seems to blow much better. The heater core sure blocks the air. Is that normal? Or is it time for a new one?
I removed it, and I can see sunlight through it. What do you guys think? change it?

 

[icanfixall]

If you decide to change out the heater core buy only the Ford part. I didn't and was in there replacing it again in about 2 years. I used the Ford part and no problems now in 6 years....

 

[ttman4]

If for some reason anyone decides to test their heater core by immersion in water, it's a good idea to use clean water.
I hear that if you are at a friends shop about 20 miles from home on a really cold nasty night & you decide to check your heater core for leaks, you should use a bucket of clean water. Don't drain your antifreeze laced coolant into a bucket & then decide to just use that bucket of good clean coolant to immerse your heatercore into, along with the attitude that "ahaw heck, this should work. I don't want to walk to the house for clean water....it's cold outside anyway"

Afterwards when you head home really late on that cold night running the heater & defroster, (after everyone else has gone to bed & you run risks of pi**ing everybody off waking them up for help) you'll probably make between 2-3 miles before the heater starts belching waves of ******, nasty, greasy feeling antifreeze smelling smog that settles all over everything....windows, dash, steering wheel, seats, interior, even settles on you! Smog that doesn't want to be wiped off!

After setting on the roadside for a long while saying many, many dirty words with all the doors open freezing your butt, you decide the heater core isn't leaking afterall. It's just that da*n coolant that's still clinging to the fins etc on the heatercore!
Couple days later after you've had enough of the smog still puffing & blowing out everytime the heater is on, you'll probably pull it all back out again & rinse everything off with clear water.....like you should've to begin with!!

Least this is what I hear......

 

[riotwarrior]

I warned ya'll about my memory.

I warned somebody about my memory, but I forget who.

Uh...you must have that disease I got...CRAFT it's hereditary too...Mom had it lots

duh

Can't

Remember

A

Flippin (any word that fits here)

Thing